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Official HMS Victory Build Diary - Issues 101 - 105 Options
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#1 Posted : 22 February 2012 10:46:41
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 06 March 2012 19:30:54

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Issue 101 - Contains a ratline plan set, flying jib & jib sails, dummy 12-pounder gun barrels, brass rings & block., and has instructions for adding the catharpins to the topmast shrouds, adding the topgallant shrouds, and the fitting of the ratlines to all three masts.

Adding the catharpins to the topmast shrouds - Cut the 1mm brass wire from issue 93 into six pieces, each about 13mm long. Then use the same technique described in issue 95 to fit the pins to the topmast shrouds of all three masts, so that they are level with the bottom of the octagonal collar around the topmast.

Adding the topgallant shrouds - Tie a length of 0.25mm black thread around the foremast above the octagonal collar, both ends should hang down the port (left) side of the mast, ending about 50mm below the staves. Take the forward thread and feed it through the hole in the end of the front crosstree, and feed the end between the first and second shroud and tie it off.
Repeat for the second topgallant shroud, feeding the thread between the third and fourth shrouds and tie off. Then add a third single length of thread to complete the third topgallant shroud, feed it through the aft crosstree and tie it off between the fifth and the sixth shrouds. Repeat the process for the opposite side of the mast not forgetting to seal the knots.

Repeat the process to complete the main mast topgallant shrouds, but remember to release the topgallant mainstay before fitting the shrouds, or it may be sealed in place when you seal the knots of the shrouds.

Repeat to complete the mizzen topgallant shrouds, remembering to release the topmast stay before fitting the shrouds. Note that there are only two pairs of shrouds on the mizzen mast. The front topgallant shroud goes between the first and second shrouds and is tied to the first shroud below the cross trees. The aft topgallant shroud goes between the third and fourth shrouds, and is secured tot he fourth shroud below the crosstrees.

Fitting of the ratlines - There are two ways of securing the ratlines. The more traditional way is to use clove hitches, which is how the ratlines on the real ship are tied. However, on a model there are some drawbacks to this method.
The knots can look overscale, the process is very time-consuming and it can be hard to tie each knot level to leave the right amount of slack between the shrouds. The thread also tends to snake rather than lie straight, giving an unnatural appearance.
You can use clove hitches if you prefer, but the ratlines shown in the magazine steps and official build are demonstrated using an alternate method (described below), which gives a more realistic appearance, and is much quicker.

Identify the correct set of templates for each mast/set of ratlines (port & starboard), you can ratline each mast in your chosen order, (it might be an idea to start with the mizzen which has the fewest ratlines).

Fore mast ratlines - The process is the same for each mast, my images show a mixture.
Cut out the ratline pattern for the fore topmast for the side of the model you are working on (port or starboard).
Hold it behind the shrouds with paper clips, aligning the dotted line at the bottom with the centre of the deadeyes, and trim the top to fit beneath the crosstrees. Don't try to force the shrouds to align with the black lines, as you are only concerned with spacing the ratlines and it does not matter if the position of the stave varies a little on your model.
Thread a sharp needle with some 0.25mm natural thread, and push the point through the middle of each shroud following the red lines of the template. The lowest ones will be quite stiff, as the deadeye bindings are sealed with diluted PVA. You should support the rigging when you pull the needle through, to avoid stretching the shrouds.
Repeat the process to complete all the ratlines, then remove the template and even up the ratlines and shrouds until the shrouds and ratlines are all straight. Paint the outer shroud/ratline joints with diluted PVA, and when dry, trim the ends of the ratlines close to the shrouds.

Fore mast futtock ratlines - Cut out and clip the template in place. Note that the lower edge marked, as the stave is a little higher that the actual stave to allow for the lay of threads.
Add the ratlines in the same way as before then seal and trim the ends.

Fore mast lower mast ratlines - Cut out and clip the template in place. Note that some of the upper and lower ratlines do not extend all the way through to the outer shrouds. Pay careful attention to the pattern of the template to see which ones stop short. Complete the ratlines then seal and trim the ends.

Mizzen & main mast ratlines - Add all three sets of ratlines in a similar manner (topmast, futtock and lower mast), then repeat the ratline fitting process for each mast on the opposite side of the model.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 102 - Contains the mizzen sail, assorted blocks, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for fitting the fore mast back stays, mizzen mast back stays, fitting the 'last centreline' stays and rigging the main topgallant staysail

Issue 103 - Contains the spritsail, 12 & 32-pounder dummy gun barrels, blocks, thread, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for rigging the mizzen topgallant staysail, rigging the jib & flying jib, fitting the stern lanterns, rigging the mizzen booms and rigging the mizzen.

Issue 104 - Contains the sprit topsail, dummy guns, blocks, cleats brass rings & pins, and has instructions for rigging the bobstays, rigging the martingales, and preparing the spritsail yards & sails.

Issue 105 - Contains the fore sail, glass beads, parrel spacers & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore yard & fore sail, adding the parrel, rigging the fore sail and rigging the fore yard.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 12 March 2012 17:49:26

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Issue 102 - Contains the mizzen sail, assorted blocks, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for fitting the fore & main mast back stays, mizzen mast back stays, fitting the 'last centreline' stays and rigging the main topgallant staysail.

For clarity, the lines placed in the stages noted below are best followed via the magazine steps, therefore I won't show the placement of these lines, but have copied the overall image from the magazine which highlights the various lines placed in the stages noted below.

Backstays - Always work evenly on both sides of the model - tie a thread on one side, then tie the same thread on the other side of the model, ensuring that the masts are upright hen you tension each stay.

Do not seal the lashings of the standing rigging until all the 'centre line' stays have been completed as you may need to re-tension some of the backstays, but remember to refix any shrouds released whilst fixing the backstays.

Fitting the fore and main mast backstays - Refer to the letter codes on the main photo of pages 8 & 9 to see where each rigging should run. use 4mm deadeyes supplied with issue 90 & 96, and 4mm blocks supplied with issue 96.
Note that when Victory was rigged for the battle of Trafalgar, her royal backstay was not fitted with a block and tackle. So you can remove the rearmost double block on the chainwale and tie the stay to the eyebolt.

Mizzen mast backstays - The mizzen has fewer back stays than the other masts , but the rigging techniques are very similar. Note that no mizzen royal backstay was fitted on Victory at the battle of Trafalgar, so remove the block on the smaller chainwale.

Fitting the last 'centre line' stays - The remaining stays run down the centre lie of the ship and are labelled from R to W on the main photo on pages 8-9.

Rigging the main topgallant staysail - This sail was provided with issue 99 and is attached in a similar way to the previous staysails. Omit all of the steps on page 13 if you are building the 'bare spars' version of the model.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 103 - Contains the spritsail, 12 & 32-pounder dummy gun barrels, blocks, thread, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for rigging the mizzen topgallant staysail, rigging the jib & flying jib, fitting the stern lanterns, rigging the mizzen booms and rigging the mizzen.

Issue 104 - Contains the sprit topsail, dummy guns, blocks, cleats brass rings & pins, and has instructions for rigging the bobstays, rigging the martingales, and preparing the spritsail yards & sails.

Issue 105 - Contains the fore sail, glass beads, parrel spacers & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore yard & fore sail, adding the parrel, rigging the fore sail and rigging the fore yard.

Issue 106 - Contains the fore topsail, dummy 12-pounder guns, parrel spacers, blocks, eyebolts, glass beads and thread., and has instructions for preparing the fore top yard and sail, adding the parrel, rigging the for topsail and rigging the braces.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V102-1.JPG
V102-2.JPG
Tomick
#4 Posted : 20 March 2012 17:48:13

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Issue 103 - Contains the spritsail, 12 & 32-pounder dummy gun barrels, blocks, thread, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for rigging the mizzen topgallant staysail, rigging the jib & flying jib, fitting the stern lanterns, rigging the mizzen booms and the mizzen.

Note that the image on page 13 shows extra rigging lines which are used to control the sail and will be added later on.
For the 'bare spars' model, it means that the driver boom will remain unsupported at its tip, and that the gaff boom suport lines will not be taught, this will be resolved in issue 107 when the extra rigging lines are added.

Rigging the mizzen topgallant sail - This sail was provided with issue 99 and is attached in a similar way to the previous staysails.
If you are building a 'bare spars' model, you should omit steps 1 to 7 on page 8/9

Rigging the jib & flying jib sails - These sails were provided with issue 101 and are attached in a similar way to the previous staysails.
If you are building the 'bare spars' model, you should omit steps 1 to 7 on page 9 and steps 1 to 7 on page 10.

Fitting the stern lanterns - The stern lanterns were assembled in issue 94.
Start with the grand lantern. Drill a hole just below the centre of the stern decoration - use a 1mm bit and angle the drill upwards to match the angle of the lantern support rod, then fix the lantern in place with superglue.

Cut about 60mm of left over 0.5m brass wire and bend it into a 'V' shape, then hook the apex of the V shaped stay around the top of the support rod, below the base of the lantern. Then cut the legs to fit under the overhang of the gallery panel cap strip (taffrail).
For the painted version of the model, paint the wire black and then glue the V stay into place.

Drill 1mm holes for the two smaller lanterns in a position so that they sit just a little lower than the grand lantern, and the support rod is just inboard of the top corner of the gallery. Glue the lanterns into position and add the V shaped stays.

Rigging the mizzen booms - You can now add the mizzen driver and gaff booms, which you assembled in issue 81.
Start by fitting four eyebolts on top of the taffrail. Carefully position a 0.6mm drill bit at the front of the cap strip, and very carefully drill down at the same angle as the gallery panel. Take great care to ensure that the hole stays within the thickness of the panel.

Fit two 4mm single blocks to each of the outboard eyebolts, and a double block to the brass wire that runs between the knees in the centre.

Take the driver boom (the longer of the two booms), carefully drill an angled 0.6mm hole in each side of the jaw - Do this very carefully so as not to split the jaw tips (do not use an electric mini drill).

Thread some 0.25mm natural thread through one of the holes, and lead it around the mizzen mast, seating the jaw onto the semi circle of the driver boom saddle. Be careful not to trap any rigging lines between this thread (the parrel rope) and the mast.
Feed the end through the hole on the opposite jaw, slipping six glass beads onto the thread as you do so, now then ease the boom back from the mast to give you room to tie a knot in the end (the same as used to tie the deadeye lashings). Pull the thread back through the jaws until the knot is resting against the jaw, and the boom is resting against the mast in the position shown in the steps. Then cut the thread and secure the end with another knot pulled tight up to the jaw.

Repeat the process with the upper boom (gaff), but this time, thread seven beads onto the parrel rope before threading it through the second jaw, and ensure that the double block at the jaw end of the boom is on the upper side.

Now add the throat halyard which supports the gaff boom. Cut a 500mm length of 0.25mm thread and tie it to the block below the mizzen top, then feed it through the double block on the boom, through the block on the mizzen top, through the block on the boom and then the top again, and leave the end hanging down the port (left) side of the model.

Rigging the mizzen sail - This sail was provided in issue 102. If you are building the 'bare spars' model, ignore steps 1 to 4, step 8 and step 11.
Use 0.25mm natural thread throughout, unless otherwise stated, and for the 'bare spars' model we start at Step 5, by adding the peak halyard as follows:

Tie 900mm of thread to the tip of the gaff boom, then feed it through the double block below the mizzen mast cap, through the single block on the boom and back through the double block, and leave it hanging down the right (starboard) side of the model. Tension the thread to raise the boom until it reaches the angle shown in the step 9 photo.

Tie a 300mm length of thread to the double block on the driver boom, loosely thread it through the double block attached to the knees to form the boom strop, (which will remain loose until 107), for now leave the end loose, (secure to the knees cleat at 107 once the additional lines have been added).

Secure the peak halyard to the front eyebolt on the starboard deck, then secure the throat halyard to the same eyebolt on the port deck.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 104 - Contains the sprit topsail, dummy guns, blocks, cleats brass rings & pins, and has instructions for rigging the bobstays, rigging the martingales, and preparing the spritsail yards & sails.

Issue 105 - Contains the fore sail, glass beads, parrel spacers & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore yard & fore sail, adding the parrel, rigging the fore sail and rigging the fore yard.

Issue 106 - Contains the fore topsail, dummy 12-pounder guns, parrel spacers, blocks, eyebolts, glass beads and thread., and has instructions for preparing the fore top yard and sail, adding the parrel, rigging the for topsail and rigging the braces.

Issue 107 - Contains the fore topgallant sail, dummy 32-pounder guns & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore topgallant yard & sail, rigging the fore topgallant, adding the lifts & braces, further rigging of the mizzen and securing the staysails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 27 March 2012 15:00:47

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Posts: 44,244
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Issue 104 - Contains the sprit topsail, dummy guns, blocks, cleats, brass rings & pins, and has instructions for rigging the bobstays & martingales, and preparing the spritsail yards & sails.

For clarity, these steps are best followed via the magazine steps.

Rigging the bobstays - These lines run down the stem to brace the bowsprit against upward pull from the forestay.
You will need 8 double blocks from issue 96, six single blocks from issue 102, 0.5mm brown thread, 0.25mm natural thread, 0.8mm & 0.25mm black thread, 6 eyebolts and your 30mm rigging jig.

Rigging the martingales - These stays run through the dolphin striker to support the jibboom and flying jibboom. Refer back to the main image on page 8 to see how they are routed. You wil need two double blocks, 0.25mm back thread, 0.25mm natural thread and your wire rigging jig.

Take a 1,150mm length of 0.25mm black thread, and bind it to a double block. Fit the block in the centre of the thread so the block has two 570mm tails, then add a 250mm length of 0.25mm natural thread.

Starting on the port side, hook the double block on the knighthead, using your wire rigging jig. Then feed the ends of both threads through the upper eye on the bowsprit, and feed the threads through the upper two holes of the dolphin striker, then tie the threads off to the end of the jibboom.
One the thread is fitted just above the lower binding, and the second is fitted behind the jibboom iron.
Now lash the block, using the technique described on page 12 of issue 99.

Repeat the steps on the starboard side of the model, but feed the threads through the lower holes in the dolphin striker and tie them off to the end of the flying jibboom.

Preparing the spritsail yards - For the 'bare spars' model, only completes steps 1 to 3 - (the spritsails are added at steps 4 to 7).
The images at steps 1, 2 & 3 show the yards with blocks fitted for a model with sails, which differs to the number of blocks upon the yards of the 'bare spars' model

Take the spritsail yard and use 0.25mm natural thread to tie the footropes, known as horses. Start by tying the thread next to the second rope band from the right on the centre section. then feed the thread back to the left through the two footrope supports, and finally tie it off to the end of the yard. the thread can either be pulled taught or left a little slack.

Repeat the process to make the starboard horse, try and get the same amount of slack on both sides.

The topsail yard horse are tied at the ends of the centre section and the opposite tip, match the slack on both sides.

Continue by adding the spritsails to the yards if you are not building the 'bare spars' model.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 105 - Contains the fore sail, glass beads, parrel spacers & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore yard & fore sail, adding the parrel, rigging the fore sail and rigging the fore yard.

Issue 106 - Contains the fore topsail, dummy 12-pounder guns, parrel spacers, blocks, eyebolts, glass beads and thread., and has instructions for preparing the fore top yard and sail, adding the parrel, rigging the for topsail and rigging the braces.

Issue 107 - Contains the fore topgallant sail, dummy 32-pounder guns & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore topgallant yard & sail, rigging the fore topgallant, adding the lifts and braces, further rigging of the mizzen and securing the staysails.

Issue 108 - Contains the main sail, parrel spacers, blocks, glass beads, eyebolts & 12-pounder gun kit., and has instructions for fitting the main sail, rigging the yard & sail, and adding the forecastle guns (Victory carried two at Trafalgar).
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 03 April 2012 18:05:38

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Issue 105 - Contains the fore sail, glass beads, parrel spacers & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore yard & fore sail, adding the parrel, rigging the fore sail and rigging the fore yard.

Fitting the fore yard - Retrieve the fore yard which was assembled in issue 71.

Page 8 say's to omit steps 2-3 if you are building the 'bare spars' model, however, this is not quite so. Step 3 says to add the foot ropes to the fore yard which is common to both versions of the model.

Take a pair of wire cutters and carefully trim the ends of the catharpins on all three masts to about a 1mm overhang, making sure that the outer shrouds do not slip off the pins.

Take two 700mm lengths of 0.5mm natural thread (provided in issue 98) and tie them just inboard of the blocks to make the 'jeer falls'.
Take 600mm of the same thread and tie it to the centre of the yard to make then yard sling. Leave a 250mm tail on one side and a 350m tail on the other, the knot does not need to be sealed.
Gently lay the yard across the model, ahead of the foremast, with the tails running neatly to the front.

Start to lash the double blocks on the yard to the treble blocks just below the foretop, using the jeer falls that you fitted earlier. Then raise the yard until there is a gap of about 25mm between the top of the yard and the bottom of the foretop and tighten the lashing. The blocks will be very close or may even touch.

Feed both ends of the yard sling through the 'eye' of the fore stay and up through the front hole in the fore top. Then take the longer end and feed this up behind the brass eyebolt in the foremast cap, then across the aft-most groove in the foremast cap, and down behind the brass eyebolt on the other side of the cap.

Now tie the two ends of the sling together. use the short end to tie a half-hitch around the longer end, and slide the knot up until the sling is tight. then secure it by tying a half-hitch in the longer end.

Adding the parrel - The parrel are rope loops that hold the yards to the masts. Start by taking two lengths of 0.25mm natural thread, each 600mm long, then tie the two threads together about 250mm from one end.

Slide 10 of the 'B' shaped metal ribs on to the longer tails, interspaced with black beads, keeping the B's the same way up, then tie the threads together to secure the assembly.

Tie the shorter end of the parrel round the yard, just inboard of the jeer fall on one side, feed the parrel round the mast, making sure that the straight sides of the B ribs face inwards.
Tie the other side of the parrel to the yard inboard of the jeer fall opposite to that tied earlier, then seal and trim the ends.

Now the yard is fitted, secure the jeer falls to the forward pinrail posts. Take the thread through the inner slot before securing it to the post with two half-hitches, then seal and trim the threads.

Rigging the fore sail - The image on page 11 shows the corresponding lettered lines. If you are building the 'bare spars' model, omit all of these steps.

Rigging the fore yard - Carry out all these steps whether or not you are adding the sails, the process is best followed via the magazine steps.

The process for rigging the fore yard is best followed via the magazine steps along with the image on page 13 which shows the corresponding lettered lines

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 106 - Contains the fore topsail, dummy 12-pounder guns, parrel spacers, blocks, eyebolts, glass beads and thread., and has instructions for preparing the fore top yard and sail, adding the parrel, rigging the for topsail and rigging the braces.

Issue 107 - Contains the fore topgallant sail, dummy 32-pounder guns & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore topgallant yard & sail, rigging the fore topgallant, adding the lifts and braces, further rigging of the mizzen and securing the staysails.

Issue 108 - Contains the main sail, parrel spacers, blocks, glass beads, eyebolts and a 12-pounder gun kit., and has instructions for fitting the main sail, rigging the yard & sail, and adding the forecastle guns (Victory carried two at Trafalgar).

Issue 109 - Contains parts to built the 18ft cutter, figurehead castings & thread., and has instructions for making the 18ft cutter, adding the figurehead and rigging the spritsail.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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