This isn't the first time I've used copper on a ship model. My first was the Corel Cutty Sark, so I've gotten some good (and bad) experience I would like to share. I see I'm ranked as a "newbie," which isn't accurate, I've been building models for almost 50 years, and model ships for almost 30.

1. Don't use CA glue. Between that and the accelerator, you will feel miserable unless you can work outside or with. respirator the entire time.

2. Use Titebond II, which is available almost anywhere. It's formulated to bond wood with metal, and works very well with the Model Space copper tiles. I put a glob on cardboard, then spread it with a small plastic spatula. Microbrushes are good for small areas as well. It has a fairly fast tack, so "make haste slowly,"

3. To apply the tiles, I find a simple X-Acto knife with no. 11 blade works perfectly. Sometimes a small pair of tweezers helps with small shaped parts of tile.

4. When you need to cut the tiles, don't bother using the method Model Space recommends: Curved blade on a ceramic tile. Simply mark with pencil where you want to cut (it might rub off from hand oils, no worries), and then simply cut with scissors. Small surgical scissors will bo the job perfectly.

5. When you cut with scissors, you might curl the tile. Simply place it on the ceramic tile you don't need to cut on (but you need a flat hard surface) and press the tile with the face of a small metal ruler.

6. If Titebond squeezes out, don't wipe it off, let it set into a gel (this only takes a few minutes) and then use your knife to gently scrape the glue off.

Hi!

The “Newbie” is an indication of how long you have been on the boards, certainly NOT your, or anyone elses experience level. But, that brings up a good point, that it is a somewhat offensive appellate.

Thank you very much for the tips! It would be awesome if you could perhaps put a small tutorial. PM me, if you are interested.

Cheers,

Mark

My name is Daryl, and thank you for the kind words

A thin film is all you need, it's going to keep it's tack for maybe 10 minutes at most, I usually "trowel" on a small bead and spread it linearly, so you can apply maybe 6 or 7 tiles one after the other, then apply more glue. If you use a bit too much, in a few minutes you can scrape it off. If some stains the tiles, it almost doesn't matter, given the scale of the model.

I learned about Titebond II's formulation for metal to wood from a Franklin engineer. Franklin makes Titebond, as well as epoxies, CAs and other glues. I make a lot of furniture, and inlay lots of materials. For most, various epoxies are needed, but or string inlay, where it's easier to inject the glue, where you are using something like silver wire, a simple glue injector with some Titebond II is easier than trying to put epoxy into an injector.

Yes, that's the product. The same engineer told me that regular Titebond (both brown and clear) and Titebond III won't work as well. I tested Titebond II first, I didn't bother testing the others,