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Tom's Easy Rider Build Options
tnequette
#41 Posted : 01 June 2020 01:55:03

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As you can see the engine mounted nicely to the frame. in Stage 47, you may have to file the pin on the center support for it to fit smoothly into the mount Part 49. Reinstalling the mounting plate and bracket was tight. I solved my problem by using a spot of CA to hold the nut on the back of the mounting plate, much easier to insert and tighten bolt from the other side.

NOW, Cursing Cursing Cursing , the spring for the foot brake!Cursing The spring shown in the directions is the wrong part! If you use Part 21, the pedal is bottomed out. Check the finished Stage picture. The correct spring is Part 36 - C. This is included in the Carb assembly for Stages 34 and 35, but NO Spring in used!Blink

See the picture and note the pedal has room to function.

Someone tell me where spring Part 21 goes? Very bad error.Mad

Other than that all is a glass of Bourbon. LOL

tnequette attached the following image(s):
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Markwarren
#42 Posted : 01 June 2020 18:45:48

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Excellent work Tom, I did the same when it came to the spring, can’t remember what happened to the other spring.LOL

Keep up the great work.Love Love Drool

Mark
tnequette
#43 Posted : 03 June 2020 18:24:56

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The infamous Pack 11 begins. As you can see progress has been made and nor real troubles so far.BigGrin The fender looks good and I have love to learn applying "Filth" all over the place, it just eliminates the "toy" look with so much chrome.

One small hint. Getting the drivechain over the sprocket and between the pulley cover is a lot easier if you loosen the sprocket a bit to wiggle it in.

More as we progress.
tnequette attached the following image(s):
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Markwarren
#44 Posted : 03 June 2020 20:05:16

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Great work Tom ThumpUp looking excellent.Love Drool

Mark
tnequette
#45 Posted : 06 June 2020 00:16:09

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This was supposed to be an easy day. NoCursing ! I have managed to break of the Thumb Flip on the Mounting Plate (Parts 37-C Pack 27. Yes, i know I am in good company but now we hope CS has these back in stock. Well, it is a part that can be replaced on the finished model. I will try making some thing but you know how that usually works out. Oh, can an anyone tell me what this thumb with is? I guess it is a choke lever. There are a lot of holes on the carb for linkage but i will need to see the real thing. (Museum still closed).

How did you guys stop the chrome disc brake cover from rotating? The brake linkage needs a stable disc.

Aligning the rear wheel is a chore if you want it to rotate freely. The fender is my problem, I think. looks like I will remove the wheel and see why the disc doesn't float. Any ideas or comments?


tnequette attached the following image(s):
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mwb
#46 Posted : 06 June 2020 04:57:39

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Hi Tom,

I can't help with the switch.

I checked the disc on my bike and it is stationary and the wheel rotates freely. I can only suggest (which you've probably already done) to go back to Pack 11 Step 61 forward and check everything over.

Also, look at Step 72 and 73. Could the nuts, both sides, on the tensioner bolt be too tight?

Let us know what you find.

mwb
Markwarren
#47 Posted : 06 June 2020 09:13:16

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If it’s any consolation, I broke mine too. Managed to glue it back. Cool

Mark
tnequette
#48 Posted : 06 June 2020 16:48:01

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Wyatt and Mark,

Thanks for the advice, I will follow it.

Am going to try to salvage as much as I can on the thumb switch and make the rest. Am hoping CS comes back with good news but......

Tom
tnequette
#49 Posted : 08 June 2020 20:35:41

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Happy Monday, Covid19, riots and all.Cursing Not my cup of tea.

Things are coming but the model fights me at every turn. After breaking off the tiny stuff around the carb, due only to my need to hold things and flip them as needed, but I never could stop the rear disc from turning. Mad The whole rear was dissembled and reassembled. I did note that the disc #22 and the Bushing #54 are keyed. That is not in the instructions.

If nothing else I learned all about aligning a motorcycle rear wheel.Confused The tension on my chain was too much for my taste and then I remembered that the transmission was also adjustable. Moved it back and found some needed slack. That also helped with rear tire adjustment.Flapper

Then the sissy bar rubbed the tire no matter what was done. Huh So that was removed and the interior bracket were sanded to relieve the sharp corners. I must say that there is not much room in there.

Managed to strip a bold. Thank God for super glue. That and the brake disc retaught me a lesson I learned decades ago: These are models, STATIC models, not meant to be pushed and pulled. Get it to look right and leave it alone!BigGrin Use the remote for all the "Gee Whiz" stuff.

Does anyone know it the electrical wire coil wrap is available on the aftermarket? More wrap sure would improve the looks.

CS was great - parts on way - pelican flight from the UK.BigGrin

Finally for today, another thread on the forum concerned not receiving the beautiful printed instructions we were used to from MS. I was very disappointed not to get them when I opened my big full order box. It is nice to have a printed guide next to you when building. Oh, well.
tnequette attached the following image(s):
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tnequette
#50 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:13:59

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Stage 11 seems never ending and it is complicated. I really appreciate the help and tips given.

Screws, nuts and bolts a nearly impossible to keep straight not matter what separation and bagging was done. Your are in a step and it tells you to get a nut from a step 20 parts bag behind you, then then it doesn't fit! A praying for the best and I will get it all together.

For example, Stage 60, parts61, the kickstand. You are given four nuts to attach it to the frame. Only the lower right leaves enough room to tighten it. I end up with 3 screws as my driver would allow thenm the be tightened.

If the part being attached is plastic and the nut or screw given is self tapping, consider pre tapping the plastic part with the nut or screw. It sure makes putting them on easier.

I have a small spring wire nut holder but the nuts are too small and starting them in a deep reach is difficult. Easy little tool made. take a thin dowel or paint brush stick, flatten the end, attach a small piece of double stick tape. Pick up you part with it and insert it into a hole ao gently twist it to start a nut. Works!

Needs "filth" applied.

tnequette attached the following image(s):
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delboy271155
#51 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:27:44

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OMG Scared Scared Scared

That is huge, but looking good. WTG


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Markwarren
#52 Posted : 13 June 2020 08:25:43

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Nice work, now it’s looking more like a bike. Love Love

Mark
tnequette
#53 Posted : 19 June 2020 22:41:11

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Today was a great day! The Barber Motorcycle reopened and I went right away. Have yet to examine the photos and cull bad ones but I will have a file of RAW High Res set up should anyone wants it. Some will be knocked down to size for posting now. So, the engine is cast iron and definitely a darker color than the kit's.

The thumb rocker switch was not even there. An expert there said that as this is a total custom from the frame up, it was probably a manual choke on the engine used. (1962 variant?). So we are good with or without it! Lots of carb linkage to add if you wish. The rear foot rests are as per kit but the right one was twisted side ways so it could fold. Mark was correct in that arrangement would warm you right ankle!

Only have time for this today with one pic.BigGrin
File Attachment(s):
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Markwarren
#54 Posted : 20 June 2020 08:18:31

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Nice pictures, thanks for sharing. Great to have that as a reference guide, nice to see the helmet on the sissy bar.

Mark
tnequette
#55 Posted : 20 June 2020 20:20:59

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Yea, Mark, you got one. Mad Drool
tnequette
#56 Posted : 21 June 2020 19:15:30

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Still trying to get these DSLR shots to show correctly. Files are just too large. I plan to return to the Museum next week as it is quite close and will shoot again with my iPhone. That seems to work just fine the the MS system.

That cycle was so clean and the lights on it made the thing absolutely brilliant. I don't think my camera's sensors could figure it out!

Attached the front wheel but ended up with not enough threads to attach the cap over the Jesus nut. Assembly was correct but the bell took too much room. Ended up sanding down the bell about 1.5mm so the cap could grab. Worked fine.
File Attachment(s):
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tnequette attached the following image(s):
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William's Build
#57 Posted : 21 June 2020 20:12:50

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Loving your work Tom. Great stuff
mwb
#58 Posted : 21 June 2020 22:19:15

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Looking good Tom. Being that close to the "real deal" item of a model kit subject is a model builders dream, at least mine. I look forward to your museum pictures.

wyatt
tnequette
#59 Posted : 22 June 2020 21:56:50

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Wyatt,

Hope to get the photos up this week. It is amazing the wiring and carb linkage you can add. I nee aftermarket 1/4 scale hose clamps and wire wrap as now in the kit. Any sources UK or EU are welcome. Plan to go to Pocher sites right away.

Don't know how far you are, happy to hear parts are now there, but that engine block and transmission casting is NOT silver. BigGrin Oh, your spark plugs are white for the ceramic tops.

Hopefully, off the Barber again this week.

Tom
tnequette
#60 Posted : 23 June 2020 22:11:50

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Ok, here are 20 photos to share. Hope they come through and I hope you like chrome! I have to decide if I want the model to be accurate or if the lights, bells and whistles are important. If I try to be as accurate as i can the current wiring is meaningless. I lean to accuracy and I sure don't plan on the grandkids using the remote! If this is the case I can use silver tubing of some sort vs wire wrap on red and black wires. Not as cool but the wrap in scale is difficult to find. Lots of jewelry wrap stuff to look at. Will work on the carb first so comments are more than welcome. Flapper

Hope the photos are of value, they are more detail than overview.

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