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Who ya Gonna Call? Building Ecto-1 from Eaglemoss Options
Coser
#61 Posted : 24 July 2020 19:29:01

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OK, I think I have changed my mind over the heat paint on the exhausts. My next delivery has arrived, so I'm now looking at getting a rolling chassis built by the end of the weekend and pictures up sometime on Monday.

See you soon!
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Coser
#62 Posted : 27 July 2020 10:45:52

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OK, so here we go with the exhausts. There are three stages left in issue 9, and the four stages of issue 10 to go through.



The first of the two exhausts. Even at this stage, you should be able to tell that these are looong!



The short piece of pipe will be at the front, then the silencer (muffler).





Then the first of two rear sections.



The other side of the silencer is screwed on. It's nice to note that these screws are on the side closest to the floor of the vehicle, and therefore won't show once the exhaust is installed.



And now we have the final length of the exhaust.



In all its glory. One long piece.



Take this piece, and screw it to the manifold. The rest of the exhaust is then a push fit onto this before we attach it to the body in several places.



And now we are getting somewhere. The exhaust is attached from above at the silencer, the rear wheel arch, and one point in between IIRC. The end of the exhaust also has a similar attachment point, but this is not used until after we have the rear suspension in place - we need to move the exhaust slightly to get to one of the screws we will use at that time.

We then have three clamps to screw on for the clamps used to secure the exhaust on the real car.





In front and behind the silencer



and just in front of the rear wheel. There is the final clamp, for near the tailpipe, supplied, but again we don't use this until after the suspension is installed.



Repeat for the other side in the next stage.
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Coser
#63 Posted : 27 July 2020 10:55:32

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Rear axle.



This stage builds the rear axle and the rear brake drums.



Two nice, chunky, metal pieces.



Screwed together, only two screws but it's not really a structural piece, and the connection is improved shortly.



A small plastic dome piece for the rearward side of the differential.



Screwed in from the inside.



The metal front of the differential. I don't know if there is any structural difference so far as the model goes, but this is the orientation in the instructions. The other side of this piece does not have the raised section visible here.



So this is the orientation the instructions tell you to fit it.



We then take the parts for the rear brake drums



and assemble like this. This is the end of issue 9. Next issue we end up with a full rolling chassis.
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roymattblack
#64 Posted : 27 July 2020 11:05:44

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Another lovely update.
Those pics of the underside and exhaust show how big this thing is going to be...LOL
Coser
#65 Posted : 27 July 2020 11:44:25

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Issue 10 - Left suspension



This stage we build the first set of rear suspension, connect it to the rear axle, and install the suspension and drive shaft.



NOTE: The leaf spring is NOT symmetrical. The first connector, where there is only one part to the connector, goes on the end of the leaf spring that has the shorter first leaf - to the right in this picture.



I drove the two screws through the connector first. This gives me better control and I can get the screws in at the correct angle easier than trying to do so whilst balancing this part and the leaf spring. I then backed the screws out again until they are flush with the inside so that I can pass the leaf spring through the gap easily. I then tighten the screws and form the joint.





The joint on the other end is made with two components and a single long screw. I am not sure if there is a difference between these two components, but I could just about make out the stamped identification on the instructions and married this up to the ID on the parts.



The leaf spring is then placed on the rear axle with the single part connector forwards.



This part is placed on top



and both leaf spring and this part are screwed to the axle.



These two parts and spring are connected together. The peg of the piston fits inside the spring, and is then compressed into the other part. They are held together with a screw through the slot in the side. Unfortunately, the hole in the piston is only visible when the unit is compressed to a certain degree, and I couldn't find a clamp suitable.

[soft, soothing music to cover the sound of swearing when my screwdriver slips and goes into my thumb.]



So the screw now both limits the up/down travel, but stops the piston twisting.



The unit we have just built will sit here. The piston has a keyed area to stop it twisting whilst we install it and also to prevent it twisting and loosening the screw.



With the new unit installed, I uncrossed the two rods we installed a while ago so they are now ready to be placed in the correct side of the suspension.



Despite the instructions telling you to install the suspension/axle, then pull on it to install the drive shaft, I put the drive shaft in first, then sat the suspension/axle in place. I have no idea why they want you to stress the connections when you don't have to, but hey I have HFA and ADHD, what do I know! Confused



Ensure that the pin in the suspension rod goes through this hole in the suspension connector.



and the connector is screwed to the spring loaded piston unit.



The front leaf spring connector gets screwed in from above through here, by the speaker location.



and the rear connectors get attached here with another long screw. To get at this, you will need to move the exhaust slightly and this is why we did not finish screwing it in last issue.



The end of the exhaust is then screwed in from above in one last place, and this final clamp added.

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Coser
#66 Posted : 27 July 2020 12:16:17

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Third wheel and brake pipes



"There's three wheels on my wagon ...."







Construct the wheel, find the correct brake drum - easy enough following the pictures in the instructions - and add two of the four brake hoses. There are six hoses supplied, a long one, a short one, and four medium ones. I found that even the medium ones were too long for me, and as the difference in length between those and the long one was minimal, I may have received five long ones and a short (or possibly medium) one. Cutting them down was no bother, and at least I didn't receive five short and one medium, so I'm happy enough.



Place the drum on the axle. Again, the drums are keyed to sit in one position, but with the hoses they won't stay that way yet. You will need to get the wheel on.



Attach the two hoses from the drum to the brake fluid distributors like so.



Take the other two medium hoses and attach them to the two nipples on the spring loaded part here.



Screw this little hose clamp into the centre of the floor underneath the axle area, and pass those two hoses through them. They will attach to the same component on the other side.

Then attach the wheel to the axle. Make sure the brake drum is in the correct orientation, and screw the wheel onto the axle.

It was at this pint that I heard something break.



Although my hand had slipped whilst I was getting the wheel on, I also realised that there is a slight angle to the part that connects to the bar on the underside of the car. I had this one angled slightly forwards when it should have angled slightly back.

At this stage, it is still possible to get a screwdriver and undo the screw holding this piece on, so I have removed it and replaced it with the one from the other side.



I have used superglue to effect repair at the moment, but realise that this probably won't hold. If anyone can let me know the diameter of the pin section of this part, I can replace it with brass rod. (It's probably not that critical. I should really be able to use some that is close enough, as long as it goes through the hole well enough at various angles I won't need to worry about it being smaller as it will be stronger than the plastic it replaces.)

I have also added an edit to the post with the original installation for this part for anyone reading in the future.



Then take the short and long pipes and add them to the remaining brake disk.



Note that in this picture the short pipe is on the right, the long one on the left.
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Coser
#67 Posted : 27 July 2020 12:37:26

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final leaf spring.

The final leaf spring is basically the same as the previous one, just with mirrored left/right parts. The single leaf spring connector still goes on the side with the shorter first leaf and at the front.



The two pipes going through the clamp in the middle of the body now connect to the other side. I checked which pipe was which and connected the lower connection to the lower connection, but this is purely me. I doubt anyone would even know just looking at them. Again, I shortened my pipes a fraction, just to tidy them up and not have obvious excess.



The final brake disc is slid on the axle, and the brake pipes fed through.



The shorter one is connected to the closer distributor, the long one to the furthest away. Funnily enough, these pipes didn't seem to need adjustment This lends weight to the idea that I got five long and one short pipes.

Install the final wheel, same as the other three, ensuring the brake disc is in the correct orientation.



And there we have it, a full, rolling chassis!

Despite a certain setback, I'm still in a good mood. Not only am I confident I can effect repair on that, I received a delivery which I am certain you won't mind me sharing in this thread even though it has nothing to do with the subject matter.



ECV-197, the "Orville" XL diecast from EM. I just love the series, and it has totally taken over from ST in my life.
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Coser
#68 Posted : 14 August 2020 18:50:14

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Issue 11 has arrived, along with a bit of a shock. I received an e-mail saying that my payment had been refused. I didn't understand, as they don't send out a delivery until after payment had been received - or at least that was my understanding.

It turns out that for a few customers, the payment for the special issue with the ghost trap had been requested twice by the system. They cancelled the second payment, but this is what triggered the e-mail.

Anyway, here we go with this month's build.





Battery box / fuel tank.



Start by screwing the battery box into its fuel tank casing. This orientation follows the instructions, but I don't suppose it actually matters which way round it goes, as all the wire comes out a hole in the top case.



and once you have screwed both halves of the fuel tank together, it should look like this.





Turn it over, and the battery door goes in, the completed assembly looking like this.*



The next piece is used to ensure the tank sits correctly, and allows the wiring to pass through into the interior. Fit it between the rails behind the rear suspension. There are three screws and a post, so it will only go one way round.



Turn the chassis over, and screw it in from above.



Place the fuel tank against the underside of the chassis. The two holes you threaded the wires through will only line up when it is in the correct orientation.



Turn the chassis over again to look at the underside. The tank should look like this.



And it is secured in place with the two straps running along the grooves, with a screw at each end of each strap.



The final thing to do in this stage is to secure the switch in position in the chassis. Note that there are the universal 0 and 1 markings on the underside of the chassis. This means that the correct way round for the switch is with the 'empty' connector to the rear, as in this picture.

Whilst I was speaking to CS, I also mentioned my broken suspension part, so a new stage with that part is on its way to me as a replacement.

*Batteries not included. [Bonus points to anyone who gets the reference.]

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Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton

Coming Soon
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Coser
#69 Posted : 14 August 2020 19:00:16

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From here on in, so far as I am concerned, this issue gets a little silly. I'll let you make up your own minds.



The parts for this stage. Steering wheel, wheel boss, two indicator stalks (One is the gear shift I believe), fuel pipe, and two screws.





Take the two stalks, and slide one inside the other. There is a 'D' shape to the connectors, so they can only go one way round - although they are somewhat loose, so some movement is possible.



Fit the fuel pipe. There is a connector to go into the fuel tank, and the other end is screwed to the chassis from the top.



The screw nearest the edge, behind the switch.

And that's it! Nothing more to do here.

I separated the two stalks, and put them and the unused parts back in the packaging and stored it. They are not used in this issue, presumably waiting until the dashboard is finished and are the last parts to complete that,
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Coser
#70 Posted : 14 August 2020 19:05:22

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Third pack for this issue.



Part of the lower dash, brake pedal, and the part that secures the pedal.



Take the two ends of the dash and attach them like so. The mounts go to the outside of the flat pieces, or you have then the wrong way round.



And there again, that is that for this pack.

At least we will secure the brake pedal in the next pack.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton

Coming Soon
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]

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Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#71 Posted : 14 August 2020 19:21:29

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Final pack for issue 11

Although the amount we are saving for later, it might as well have been issue 13!



This pack contains a number of differing designs of switches, and a set of LED lights.



Remove this one from the pack, and save all the rest for another time. This is the brake light switch, and we are going to use if now.



The end of it is very similar to the one from the Delorean.



Screw it into position here. Note that there is a peg under the moulded section of the switch. This goes into the hole closest to the pedal mount.



The pedal is installed so that the detailed surface of the pedal is towards the dash unit. It may help to know that the flat section of the dash is the horizontal bottom face of the dash, and to activate the brakes you push the pedal forward.



The bracket is an 'L' shape, covering the top and back of the mounting. Make sure after this is installed that the switch is open normally, and only closes when you press the brake pedal. It is also noteworthy that there is no spring return on the pedal. The only spring is the natural spring of the switch itself, so any damage to the switch may result in the brakes being permanently on or off, depending on the damage.

Store the dash carefully to prevent damage to the pedal or switch.

That's it for this month.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton

Coming Soon
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#72 Posted : 14 August 2020 19:40:36

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Bonus Content!

Ghost trap.

It's actually a shame they only provide one of these, as it would have been great to have had a couple in the back with the packs.

As my delivery of the special packs turned up the day before my monthly delivery, it took some of the disappointment away from how much we have to save for next month.

I couldn't find my magazine with the instructions, but this is a simple build with only 2 screw sizes, and they are obvious.



I'm going to start with the pedal, but again I don't suppose it matters which end you start at.



Take a small screw and attach the clear piece from underneath. There is a key on the clear piece, so it will only go the correct way round.





Trap the spring between the top and bottom plate of the pedal, as we did for the cable connecting the Neutrona wand and the proton pack. Screw the top and bottom plates together with one of the larger screws.



This completes the pedal.



Take the top and bottom of the trap. Trap the spring, and screw them together with two of the large screws.



Starting to look good.



I then worked front to back, starting with this detail. Again it can only go flush one way, and I used a little "Plastic Weld" to glue it in place.



I then added the chevron sticker to the top doors. Again, it would have been good if the design had included a thin black line representing the point at which the two doors met when closed, but this is good enough.



I then glued the handle in, and that completes the trap.

As I have already posted on the construction of one of the proton packs, and these are just repeats, I don't intend on repeating that advice. As I have been given to understand that Modelmodz are working on an electronic proton pack, I may well get one for the rear-most pack so that if I pull the gurney out to show off the packs and trap, the electronic one will be the first to come out, and the easiest to show off. The other 3 will be the best 3 out of the 4 supplied by Eaglemoss.
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Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton

Coming Soon
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]

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delboy271155
#73 Posted : 14 August 2020 21:46:59

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Looking good. Cool Cool

One very small change I made to the trap, was to score a line with a very sharp knife blade down the centre of the black and yellow sticker, where the moulding of the trap doors show a separation line underneath the sticker.

I did say it was a small change. LOL

Keep up the good work.


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delboy271155
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Coser
#74 Posted : 14 August 2020 22:58:03

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Yes, it's a small change, but I also think it's one well worth the effort. I'll get a fresh blade in my scalpel and do just that.

Thanks Delboy.
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Markwarren
#75 Posted : 15 August 2020 09:14:30

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That is coming on very nicely. Love Love
mogwai
#76 Posted : 16 August 2020 11:56:58

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Hi coming along very nicely, just one question are all your switch lables as per magazine because mine all wrong ,cheers mick.BigGrin
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Coser
#77 Posted : 17 August 2020 21:54:49

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No idea Mick.

To tell the truth, I selected the switch I used based on the fact that it's almost identical to the switch used for the Delorean, and matched what was shown in the instructions. All the other switches are push button types, so I didn't look.

Given that all the work this month could have been put into a maximum of 2 stages, it wouldn't surprise me though. How do you tell what the numbers should be when we don't have instructions for them at this stage? Or is it a difference between what they are labelled and what the parts list says they are? 'cos I don't normally spend any time looking at that unless I need to let them kn ow that I don't have a part - and as I've just found out, all I need to do as a subscriber is call them up and let them know what stage I need a replacement for and they'll send it out. (So I might just be cheeky tomorrow and look up what stage all the HT leads are in and ask for a stage for them too!)
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mogwai
#78 Posted : 17 August 2020 22:08:06

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Hi it's just what they labelled in the parts list don't match the stickers on them,I'll just go by wire colours as the list tells you what each one for.yes was bit of short pack this time ,as half parts not used yet ,cheers mick.BigGrin
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delboy271155
#79 Posted : 21 August 2020 11:10:45

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Hi, BigGrin

I have just received the latest pack for the Ecto1.

I`ve had a good look at the wiring in issue 38 and the problem is that the instructions use notation A to G and the labels on the parts are B to H.

Wire A is the labelled wire from the battery box, so the wiring parts supplied in issue 38 are labelled correctly, its the notation in the instructions that is wrong.

So where in issue 38 it says use 38F it should read 38G.

My guess is that all the other wires will have to move up the alphabet by one letter also unless the typo error is only in this pack. We`ll have to wait and see. Blink Blink


Here`s hoping the next pack has some more work to do, but that`s the nature of partworks.

Happy building


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Coser
#80 Posted : 05 September 2020 11:52:28

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OK, time for the next update.

Firstly, I'm not going to complain about the amount work in an issue on this build again. I found out last week that issues 72 and 74 of the Bismark build are copies of this.

"Take sticker and wrap around one end of the electric lead. Plug the other end into the motor. The end.

So I received the replacement pack with the suspension parts that I broke. I have now removed the fuel tank, replaced the suspension part, and replaced the fuel tank. We now continue with the dash.



Issue 12, stage 39



Take the lower dash from last issue, we will first install the glove box door.



This goes in from the back, with the top going under the lip. There are two pins that fit as the hinges down the bottom, and two clip-like side pieces that prevent the door opening too far.



The hinge cover is screwed in and this locks the door in place.





This is now complete. The door holds its place in any position without problem.



We now start on the upper dash and instrument cluster. The ventilation control panel is inserted into this black component on the left hand side.



The heater control panel is installed in the right side. These parts are awkward to install, I found it hard to get the two pins on each silver part into the holes in the black part, as the main body completely covers the area.



The other half of the steering column tunnel is now screwed to the bottom of this assembly.



Which is now screwed into the lower dash assembly.



That is it for this stage.
Current Builds
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Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton

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