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Official HMS Victory Build Diary - Issues 71 - 75 Options
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#1 Posted : 20 July 2011 11:30:41
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 06 August 2011 15:22:18

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Issue 71 - Contains assorted wood strips & dowel, assorted blocks, studdingsail boom irons, brass wire, quarter irons and thread; and has instructions for constructing and finishing the fore yard.

Constructing the fore yard - The construction of this yard is very similar to the main yard of the main mast, which was covered in issue 65, therefore I will not be repeating the build process here.
You will require parts supplied with issue 70, and you will find it helpful to refer back to 65 for detail of the process in conjunction with the build steps of 71.

If you have opted for a painted finish, paint the entire main yard assembly black, including the studdingsail booms, the bands around the centre section and the footrope supports, BEFORE attaching the rigging & blocks.

That's it for this week, carefully store the assembly and remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 72 - Contains wood strips, chainwales, blocks, deadeyes, thread, studdingsail boom irons, chainwale support brackets, eyebolts, brass wire, shroud chain links & pins; and has instructions for making and finishing the main and fore top mast yards.

Issue 73 - Contains thread, brass wire, netting,brass stanchions and a 12-pounder gun kit; and has instructions for constructing and finishing the topgallant yards.

Issue 74 - Contains assorted wood strips, entry port canopy supports & canopies; and has instructions for opening the cutaway, adding the channel moulding, fitting of the entry port canopies, fitting of the side ladders, fitting the wriggles and fitting the fenders.

Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instruction for painting the hull yellow & black banding, preparing the chainwales, fitting the deadeyes.

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V71.JPG
V71-1.JPG
V71-2.JPG
Tomick
#3 Posted : 12 August 2011 10:07:20

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Issue 72 - Contains wood strips, chainwales, blocks, deadeyes, thread, studdingsail boom irons, chainwale support brackets, eyebolts, brass wire, shroud chain links & pins; and has instructions for making and finishing the main and fore top mast yards.

Making the main and fore topmast yards - The assembly of both is identical, but note that their sizes are different - Ensure you use the right plan for each yard.

The majority of parts for the main top mast yard were supplied with issue 65, but you will also need the boom irons supplied issue 70. The parts for the fore top mast yard were supplied with issue 71.

Double check that you are using the right plans and dowel, and start with the main topmast yard.
Mark the centre section of the 270mm length of 5mm dowel, making sure that the excess length overhangs each end evenly, then as before use the centre finder to mark the lines on the octagonal centre section.

Taper the yard to the plan measurements and then shape the centre section to an octagonal shape with its faces being 3mm wide.
Cut four lengths of 2x3mm strip to fit the centre section (66mm long), chamfer the edges as you have done previously then glue the four strips in place.

Then cut eight 7mm lengths from the 2x3mm strip, chamfer each piece so that it fits between the gaps left between the four longer lengths, then chamfer the ends at both ends of the octagonal centre section.

Fit the two yard slings in the position indicated on the plan, the drill two 1mm holes in the ends of the yard.

Taper the two studdingsail booms and cut them to lengths as shown bottom right on the yard plans.

Check that the booms & quarter irons fit the yard & booms in the positions shown on the plans.

If you have chosen a stained finish, stain the yard & booms to match the other yards, if you have opted for a painted finish, paint the yard black BEFORE attaching the wire footrope supports, rigging & blocks.

Make up the blocks and the yard as shown on the plans and add in your chosen mast guise - Bare spares or Sails.

Repeat the build process for the fore topmast yard using the correct plan/dowel.

That's it for this week, carefully store the yards and remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 73 - Contains thread, brass wire, netting,brass stanchions and a 12-pounder gun kit; and has instructions for constructing and finishing the topgallant yards.

Issue 74 - Contains assorted wood strips, entry port canopy supports & canopies; and has instructions for opening the cutaway, adding the channel moulding, fitting of the entry port canopies, fitting of the side ladders, fitting the wriggles and fitting the fenders.

Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instruction for painting the hull yellow & black banding, preparing the chainwales, fitting the deadeyes.

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V72.JPG
V72-1.JPG
V72-2.JPG
V72-3.JPG
Tomick
#4 Posted : 17 August 2011 09:35:08

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 44,239
Points: -6,448
Issue 73 - Contains thread, brass wire, netting, brass stanchions & 12-pounder gun kit; and has instructions for constructing and finishing the topgallant yards.

The construction of the main and fore topgallant yards is virtually the same. However, the yards are slightly different sizes, so make sure that you use the correct parts and plan for each yard, also the main topgallant yard has slings fitted, the fore topgallant yard does not.
You'll need to use the centre finder on the foremast plans for the 4mm dowel.

Starting with the construction of the main topgallant yard, place the 200mm length of 4mm dowel that you received with issue 64 on the main topgallant plan, making sure that the excess length overhangs both ends.

Mark the 44mm centre section, then use the centre finder to mark the four corners of a square, and extend the lines across the marked area.

Taper both ends of the spar until the diameter at the ends is 3mm, then mark the short stepped section at both ends, then cut the spar to length at the outer marks of the step.

Make a shallow score around the circumference of the spar on the inner mark at each end, then carve away a little of the wood to start the step, then sand it to a smooth round section.

Carve away the centre are you marked into the square section, measuring 2mm square, take great care in doing this as the un-supported centre section at 2mm sq is quite fragile.

Then cut four lengths of 2x2mm strip the same length as the centre section, and chamfer one side of both ends.
Glue one of these lengths to each side of the square to form a cross (+) when viewed from one end, and when the glue is dry, add another four lengths to the corners to form a square section.

Carve/sand the corners of the four lengths you just added to form an octagon shape to the centre section, you should also chamfer the ends to match the chamfer on the strips you fitted earlier.

Add the two yard slings at the points marked on the plan (Note that the slings are only added to the main topgallant yard).

Repeat the construction process for the fore topgallant yard, using the plans provided with issue 67, and parts from issue 71.

If you have opted for a natural finish, stain the spar to match the other yards you have made, and when fully dry add the four rope bands to the centre section.
if you have opted for the painted version, paint both yards black, including the yard slings and rope bands.

When the paint/stain is dry, add the blocks as per the plans to suit your chosen guise (bare spars or with sails).

Assemble the 12-pounder gun, finish in your chosen guise, carefully store the gun and its rigging kit.

That's it for this week, carefully store both yards and the remaining parts.

Issue 74 - Contains assorted wood strips, entry port canopy supports & canopies; and has instructions for opening the cutaway, adding the channel moulding, fitting of the entry port canopies, the side ladders, wriggles and fenders.
You will require a metal primer for the wriggles - such as 'Admiralty Paints' AP9205W metal primer (via CMB) and your chosen black paint.

Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instructions for painting the yellow & black banding of the hull, preparing the chainwales and fitting the deadeyes.
Not forgetting that if you have opted for the painted finish, you will require your chosen yellow ochre & black paint for the hull stripes.

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.

Issue 77 - Contains the mizzen mast plan, assorted wood strips, mizzen mast top parts, blocks, thread brass wire & eyebolts; and has instructions for assembling the mizzen mast top, assembling the skylight and fitting the first knees.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 25 August 2011 10:13:55

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 74 - Contains assorted wood strips, entry port canopy supports & canopies; and has instructions for opening the cutaway, adding the channel moulding, fitting of the entry port canopies, fitting of the side ladders, fitting the wriggles and fitting the fenders.

Note - In issue 75 we will be painting the yellow & black stripes of the hull, because the stripes don't follow the lines of the wales, and go straight across the steps, fenders and wriggles, these parts have to be glued in place first, the only exception to this is the entry port canopies, where you will need to paint around the bottom of the supports.

With most of the heavy work on the hull completed, we now start to add smaller details; The instructions only show one side of the model, so repeat the construction process on the opposite side of the hull which is a mirror image.

If you opted for the painted version, ignore the steps that involve Staining.

A lot to complete, so let's get started.....

Opening the gun deck cutaway - If you opted for the gun deck cutaway, you will need to remove the redundant central pieces of frame before you start adding further items on the hull.

Adding the channel moulding - You will need the 1x3mm strips supplied with issue 72.
The channel moulding runs down each side of the hull above the upper moulding you fitted at issue 43. If you are staining your model take five of the 1x3mm strips and stain the edges the same colour used for the wales, if painting your model, leave the wood bare.

Glue and pin a run of strips 3mm above the highest wale already fitted, the gap can be reduced to 2mm if your wales are fitted higher than in the magazine photos, (use an offcut to gauge the gap).
The moulding should fall in the middle of the gap between the upperwale and bulwark cap, make sure that the trip does not overhang the edge of the second-to-last gun port at the stern, but it can overlap the last port - you may need to reduce the gap between the channel moulding and the upper strake to achieve this. Either pull out of cut off the pins when the glue is dry.

Fitting the entry port canopies - The canopy of the real victory is roofed with lead, a detail point that can be added with matt grey paint, or with a small sheet of lead foil obtained from a specialist model shop or salvaged from the foil cap of some wine bottles, (I used 0.025mm thick foil).

Hold the side supports and roof in place on the hull, you may need to file the tops of the support to match the angle of the roof.
Whether you are building the natural or painted version, paint the parts black and highlight the lines and detail with gold paint.
Attach the supports to the hull using superglue, they need to be 12mm apart, so align the inner edges with the outside of the strips of wood that line the entry ports, then glue the canopy on top.

Fitting the side ladders - The side ladders are made from 1.5x3mm & 2x2mm strip, you should read over step 1 a number of times to be sure of the positiong of the masking tape, this will act as a guide for ladder placement.
Using 1.5x3mm strip, cut and fit the wide part of the steps as shown in the magazine, noting that the step above the lower gun port is shorter to avoid the cut out for the wriggle. Chamfer the inside edge of the strips to keep the steps level.
Then cut pieces of 2x2mm strip the same length as the steps already fitted, chamfer the ends and then glue a strip beneath each step - note that some strips will need to be trimmed to fit between the wales or mouldings etc.

Fitting the wriggles - You will need the arched ^ wriggles supplied with issues 64 & 70, the wriggles should be primed - Paint the wriggles black if you opted for the natural/stained build - (For the painted version, in issue 75 the majority of these wriggles are over-painted yellow ochre with the odd exception of where a wriggle encroach's into the black striping).
Superglue these wriggles into place as shown in the diagrams, 13 wriggles are located on each side of the hull. If you opted for the gun deck cutaway, you will not be able to place the three wriggles located in the gun deck cutaway area.

Fitting the fenders - The Fenders are made from 2x2mm strip and are curved lengths of strip that run up alongside the hull ladders, and a single 2x3mm fender just over halfway towards the bow.

Use a strip of wood to mark two vertical lines for the fenders near the ladders. Put them 9mm apart, centrally between the top and middle gun ports. Then cut lengths of 2x2mm strip to fit between the wales and mouldings, not forgetting to leave a gap for the lower gun port wriggle (supplied later on). Stain the sides of these strips before placement, but if you are painting your hull, leave the wood bare.

Bend two lengths of 2x2mm strip to match the curve of the hull and extend approx 2.5mm above the bulwark cap strip.

Sand a radius at the bottom ends of the strips, then stain and glue these in place (leave bare if painting), then fit the two short top strips of 2x2mm wood on top of the bulwark cap.
Sand the tops of the vertical strips flush and sand a radius on the inboard & outboard ends - Stain or leave bare if painting.

That's it for this week!

Carefully store any remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instruction for painting the yellow & black banding of the hull, preparing the chainwales, and fitting the deadeyes to the chainwales.

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.

Issue 77 - Contains the mizzen mast plan, assorted wood strips, mizzen mast top parts, blocks, thread brass wire & eyebolts; and has instructions for assembling the mizzen mast top, assembling the skylight and fitting the first knees.

Issue 78 - Contains mizzen bibbs, pinrail, driver boom saddle, blocks, threads, net, brass wire, brass stanchions and belaying pins; and has instructions for the assembly & finishing of the mizzen lower mast, and constructing & finishing of the the flag lockers.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V74.JPG
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V74-1.JPG
V74-2.JPG
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 01 September 2011 10:02:13

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Posts: 44,239
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Issue 75 - Contains blocks, assorted deadeyes, wood strip, fore chainwales, eyebolts, chainwale supports, pins, chain links, thread & brass wire; and has instruction for painting the yellow & black stripes of the hull, preparing the chainwales and fitting the deadeyes.

For both the natural and painted version, check that the slot cut for the false deck of the gallery does not extend by more than 2mm. If it does, fill and sand it smooth,(anything less than 2mm will be covered by gallery panelling later on).

Painting the hull - If you have opted for a painted finish, it is now time to paint the sides of the hull to the level where the chainwales will be attached, as this area will soon become inaccessible.

Check your hull for blemishes, defects or scratches, any that you do find must be filled and sanded smooth as necessary - Make sure that the model is clean and dust free before starting to paint.

Use the information & photos within the magazine as a guide for the positioning of the yellow & black bands - Note that they do not run exactly parallel and do not follow the lines of either the gun ports or wales (although they do follow the wales in places).

Use a cut down drinking straw, and slide over the gun barrels to protect the barrels from paint.

Paint the inside edges of the entry ports brown to represent the dark wood which lines these areas.
Paint the inside edges of the gun ports red ochre, (those who have opted for the gun deck cutaway, can also paint its inside edges red ochre).

Preparing the chainwales - The main mast chainwales were supplied at 72, and the foremast chainwales with this issue - Use the plan in the magazine for careful the positioning of the blocks & deadeayes.

The plans show the starboard chainwails, you should mark up the port side chainwales as a mirror image, the technique of assembly is identical for all three chainwales.
Pair up the chanwales and ensure that you are working on the correct chainwale for the side of the hull you are working on, and pay particular attention to the main mast chainwales, as they are almost, but not quite symmetrical.

Start by marking the position on the hull for each chainwale as noted in the instructions, then sand the edge of the chainwale which contact's with the hull so that its edge follow's the shallow cirve of the hull, so that the full length of the chainwale contacts with the hull, (this particularly applies to the forward chainwales).

Mark the position of the holes in the chainwales and drill using a 0.7mm bit, then stain the chainwales to match the wale finish of your hull or paint them black.

Add the eyebolts and cut the excess from their shanks, then prepare 12 double blocks for the foremast, and 14 for the main mast and two for the small chainwale, leaving tales of approx 50mm, then tie the double blocks to the eyes of each chainwale.

Fitting the deadeyes - Each pair of chainwales is rigged with a total of 8 small and 22 large deadeyes, the deadeyes are wired and located into the chainwale slots, use the plan for the positioning of the deadeyes, Not forgetting that the plans show the starboard chainwales, and the port side is a mirror image.

You will need to make a simple deadeye jig to form the wire loops around the deadeyes (the loops should be elongated ratehr than circular).

To make the jig, take a left over strip of 5mm thick wood and cut a slot in it, about 1mm wide and 3mm deep.

Carefully follow the wire looping steps in the magazine to produce the wired deadeyes,(the small deadeyes are wired in the same manner).
Then locate each deadeye into position in the slots of the chainwale you are working on and securewith superglue. You may need to slightly enlarge some of the slots to accept the wire, and take care to fit the small deadeyes in the locations shown on the plans not forgetting that the chainwales are handed.

Take a strip of 1x3mm wood and cut it to length to cover the front face of the chainwale, but before gluing the strip into place, you should should stain or paint black its side edges; when dry glue the strip into place, then complete the staining/painting of the front face.

Don't forget to rotate the all the deadeye's so there are two holes at the top and one at the bottom.
My final photo show's a set of deadeyes for the starboard side, beware that the final magazine photo show's the Main Mast chainwale from the port side.

That's it for this week!

Carefully store the assemblies and any remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 76 - Contains wood strips, gallery support trims, finials and three 12-pounder gun kits; and has instructions for completing and finishing the gallery support, and fitting the inner bulwark mouldings.

Issue 77 - Contains the mizzen mast plan, assorted wood strips, mizzen mast top parts, blocks, thread brass wire & eyebolts; and has instructions for assembling the mizzen mast top, assembling the skylight and fitting the first knees.

Issue 78 - Contains mizzen bibbs, pinrail, driver boom saddle, blocks, threads, net, brass wire, brass stanchions and belaying pins; and has instructions for the assembly & finishing of the mizzen lower mast, and constructing & finishing of the the flag lockers.

Issue 79 - Contains assorted strips & dowel, threads, brass wire, eyebolts, cross tree parts, caps, guides and assorted blocks; and has instructions for preparing & finishing the mizzen topmast, making the deck rails, and constructing & finishing the belfry.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 01 September 2011 10:12:47

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Current Hms Victory deadeye photos
Tomick attached the following image(s):
Victory deadeyes.jpg
Vic deadeyes.jpg
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