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Wheel spoking tutorial Options
Spal
#1 Posted : 24 April 2017 13:38:00

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The wheel-building method used to build the spare wheel in issues 4 and 5 is a slightly simplified version of the actual spoking pattern used by Jaguar on the actual E-type.

This was done in order to guarantee that first-time builders can get excellent results by using a ‘2-spoke cross-over’ pattern rather than a 3-spoke cross-over which is more difficult to achieve.

The visual differences in the finished wheels is almost imperceptible, but confident modellers who want added authenticity may wish to try the more complex 3-spoke spoking arrangement as described below:

3-spoke wheel assembly guide - this has been achieved using only the tweezers supplied with your parts a cocktail stick and some double sided tape.

Photo 1 - Is what we start with.

Photos 2 & 3 - First the hub is mounted on the jig and positioned on its peg.

Photo 4 - The double sided tape is applied to the inside rim and pushed into the groove where the spokes sit and its outer coating removed.

Photo 5 & 6 - The wheel ring is then placed on the jig, locating the peg on the jig and hole in the rim.

Photo 7 & 8 - Hold the rim with thumb and second finger, allowing the forefinger to assist with pushing the spoke and preventing the hub from lifting off its slot, the first spoke is then pushed through a hole on the lower layer set on the hub and using the tweezers pulled tight against the hub and then placed in the slot in the rim that is a tight fit, to the right hand side of the hub.
Using the tweezers it can then be pushed into the rim sticking it to the tape.

Photo 9 & 10 - Once this important first spoke is fitted you can proceed to fit the rest of the bottom layer ensuring every other slot on the rim was missed. I found it was easier to position the spoke as shown and to follow an anti-clockwise pattern as there was less chance of getting spokes snagged on others.

Photo 11 - Once all the lower spokes are fitted you can proceed with the upper layer.

Photo 12 - Holding the jig as shown helps to keep the lower layer in position as you fit the important first spoke.

Photo 13 - Pulling the spoke through the hub place it to the opposite side to the lower layer as shown then push it into the tape using the tweezers.

Photos 14 to 17 - Repeat this with the rest of the spokes noting how the spokes are positioned in the hub.

Photo 18 - Once all the spokes are fitted you may need to slightly reposition a spoke or two if they have moved slightly.

Photos 19 to 21 - Then fit the securing ring.


The first part is now complete. Below is the second part of the tutorial covering Issue 5.

NOTE: Issue 5, Steps 2-18 and Steps 21-24 show photos of a wheel built using the 2 spoke crossover. The spoking pattern in the original Jaguar drawing shown in issue 5 correctly shows the 3 spoke crossover that was used in issue 4 instructions and this is the "experienced" method of assembly.

Photos 22 & 23 - First double sided tape was applied.

Photos 24 & 25 The first spoke from pack A was placed through the lower hole of the hub and placed through the central space formed by the spokes fitted in issue 4.

Photo 26 - Once the spoke has been passed through the spokes, to prevent it sliding back during the turning over of the wheel, I placed my forefinger over the wheel center and my thumb on the hub as shown.

Photo 27 - Then I used the tweezers to lift the spoke over the mounting lug into position, this required a little force.

Photo 28 & 29 - Then taking a spoke from pack B, place it to the left of the one just fitted and over it and through the next central gap and over the mounting lug as before.

Photo 30 - Repeat this for the rest of the spokes as per the instructions.

Photos 31 to 33 - I found by placing the pack B spokes in this position then applying a little downward pressure helped to thread them through the gap.

Photo 34 & 35 - Once all the spokes are fitted the wheel is ready for the spacer and outer rim fitted.

Photo 36 to 39 - Show the spacer and outer rim fitted.

Photos 40 & 41 - Then finally the tyre can be fitted.

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Mustang
#2 Posted : 24 April 2017 15:00:02

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Nicely done Al

Now I hope Al doesn't mind me butting in, I've been reading that people are having issues with the build of he wheel. So I had a go at doing mine and I must say it was easy to do so I'm not sure why people are having issues.

The only slight difference I did was in fitting the second set, I was always taught that when tighting up always work across the area, i.e when doing up four screws do top bottom left right that way the tension is equal.

So with that in mind, I did the following five spokes at the top then turned the jig around and did the five that where at the bottom that way the tension is equal across the wheel. This made it a lot easier when fitting the left and the the right ones, all in all this took me less then 30mins to do, and I used no tape or glue.
Building:- 1919 https://forum.model-spac...=339517&#post339517 - Class 08 - https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=34197 Below Decks - https://forum.model-spac...sts&m=339187#339187

Built:-. HMS Bounty, RMS Titanic, MP4-23, Flying Scotsman, Aston Martin DB5, Honda CB750, Mustang, R2-D2, Jaguar, DeLorean, Testarossa, Stage Coach plus many plastic kits.
Dry dock no room to display:-. Bismarck, U96.
To build:-. HMS Hood. HMS Victory. Cutty Sark. SoS, Lancaster bomber. DR1 Triplane. JU-87. Plus many many plastic kits.
luigione
#3 Posted : 25 April 2017 16:53:13

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If I may add a suggestion, I would tape the rim to the jig, eliminates the risk of rim coming off the jig during assembly. Also make sure the spokes have a 90 degree bend in them, some of them are tighter than that, so makes it harder to fit in groove. Did mine last night, did use blue tac to fix the spokes rather than tape, found it easier to do that way.
Eagle
#4 Posted : 02 June 2017 11:55:04

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Thanks to those above who shared their techniques, my question is- what is 'blue tac'?

michu
#5 Posted : 02 June 2017 12:09:16

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Eagle wrote:
Thanks to those above who shared their techniques, my question is- what is 'blue tac'?



https://www.amazon.com/B...esive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72
Cool
Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.

Happy building :-)

http://www.model-space.com/gb/
darbyvet
#6 Posted : 02 June 2017 14:16:42

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Blue Tack is also called mounting putty or reusable poster tack in USA.Elmers makes it and so does Duck.

Carl

CF-FZG
#7 Posted : 20 July 2017 22:09:46

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Thanks Al, I'll have another attempt at my wheel tomorrow after work ThumpUp ThumpUp
Mark.

Current builds,
Hachette HMS Hood
Hachette Mallard
DeAgostini E Type Jaguar
goldfinger
#8 Posted : 06 January 2018 14:55:29

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Laugh Hi can anyone tell me what the Difference is with the wheel in issues 4and 5 and issues 38,39,40 Because having looked at them very closely they look the same are the A Spokes and B Spokes they same as the latest issues for the wheel I am a little confused as to why the Spare Wheel cannot be used on the Car Al
roymattblack
#9 Posted : 06 January 2018 15:16:42

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As far as I can tell, there's no difference at all other than the tyre pattern.
goldfinger
#10 Posted : 06 January 2018 15:25:59

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Hi Roy Thank You for your Reply I have some parts from issue 5 and just bought issue 38 and have enough Spokes to do the first and Second Layer of Spokes but I'm a little Worried incase the Metal part with all the holes in for the Spokes is Different to that in issue 39
Tomick
#11 Posted : 06 January 2018 15:31:17

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goldfinger wrote:
Laugh Hi can anyone tell me what the Difference is with the wheel in issues 4and 5 and issues 38,39,40 Because having looked at them very closely they look the same are the A Spokes and B Spokes they same as the latest issues for the wheel I am a little confused as to why the Spare Wheel cannot be used on the Car Al
The tyre tread of the spare differs to that of those on the car hence why you should not use the spare as being on the car.
Tezza
#12 Posted : 02 March 2018 00:30:45

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Why aren't the rest of the tyres the same as the spare? Did Jaguar only supply Dunlop rubber as the spare and any old 'un named remoulds' for the 1963 Car?

What if my model hits a 1/8th pothole or runs over a staple? Can I use the spare then?
el_jalepeno
#13 Posted : 20 June 2018 15:51:48

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Are the set of 4 tires shiny black or do they look slightly weathered?
Spal
#14 Posted : 20 June 2018 16:38:01

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el_jalepeno wrote:
Are the set of 4 tires shiny black or do they look slightly weathered?


All tyres are shiny black.

Al
Simonone
#15 Posted : 01 August 2018 10:05:49

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I have just dumped all of my Jaguar E-Type parts and cancelled my subscription, after a long and frustrating night, during which I failed to reach step 18. I have restarted 3-4 times, and always stuck between step 17-18.

My questions: do the pictures refer to the 3-cross spoking or the 2-cross spoking?
I count 3 cross spoking, but I may be wrong. Anyway, I have tried to replicate the pictures procedure, but have found the wires that tiny bit too short, so that the ones in the upper row failed to match their slots.

If i tried to pull a wire a little bit more, other wires would fall out of their slots.

This has been a real disappointment to me, as I am happily building both the mustang and the porsche from Deagostini and found them excellent models to build. But this Jaguar appears to me not friendly enough.

I was actually temted to reduce the cross spoking to 2, but wanted to stick to the pictures I saw in the manual.

Since I am still at the beginning of my construction, any suggestion would be appreciated. who knows, I might subscribe again...
roymattblack
#16 Posted : 01 August 2018 10:37:47

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Sorry to hear you had such difficulty.

The two-spoke cross pattern is somewhat easier and is actually a genuine Jaguar E Type wheel pattern as they used both 2 and 3 cross styles in the E Type history.

There are several wheel tutorials here, each being slightly different.
Have a look at a few.
The wheels do look really good once assembled.

Roy.
Spal
#17 Posted : 01 August 2018 15:33:34

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Simonone wrote:
I have just dumped all of my Jaguar E-Type parts and cancelled my subscription, after a long and frustrating night, during which I failed to reach step 18. I have restarted 3-4 times, and always stuck between step 17-18.

My questions: do the pictures refer to the 3-cross spoking or the 2-cross spoking?
I count 3 cross spoking, but I may be wrong. Anyway, I have tried to replicate the pictures procedure, but have found the wires that tiny bit too short, so that the ones in the upper row failed to match their slots.

If i tried to pull a wire a little bit more, other wires would fall out of their slots.

This has been a real disappointment to me, as I am happily building both the mustang and the porsche from Deagostini and found them excellent models to build. But this Jaguar appears to me not friendly enough.

I was actually temted to reduce the cross spoking to 2, but wanted to stick to the pictures I saw in the manual.

Since I am still at the beginning of my construction, any suggestion would be appreciated. who knows, I might subscribe again...


Sorry to hear that you are having problems with your wheels. The official build and this tutorial refer to the 3 cross spoking for the more experienced builder.As Roy mentioned in the previous post you can try the 2 spoke crossover which is easier to achieve. Give it a try and once you have done it you will be glad you did and back on track with this great build.

Al
Jax_R.
#18 Posted : 30 December 2018 13:22:48

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Many Thanks @Spal for the detailed construction of the wheel. I've not built a model kit in 40 or more years. Enjoyed doing it as a kid with my dad. I had to admit I was spooked when I saw that wheel in issue 4 and said there's no way I'll ever be able to do that.

The book was helpful but your instructions were spot on! Did the whole thing in about an hour and 40 minutes. Watching a movie to stay relaxed. Once you got into a rhythm, it was smooth sailing. My only issues now is after putting it back in the bubble to protect it until it's needed again, it appears one of the spokes popped out or off. Haven't taken a good enough look yet but was happy to see how this turned out. Thank you!

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