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Official HMS Victory Build Diary - Issues 106 - 110 Options
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#1 Posted : 04 April 2012 12:38:34
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 10 April 2012 19:36:16

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Issue 106 - Contains the fore topsail, dummy 12-pounder guns, parrel spacers, blocks, eyebolts, glass beads and thread., and has instructions for preparing the fore top yard and sail, adding the parrel, rigging the for topsail and rigging the braces.

Fitting the fore top yard and sail - The process is similar to that carried out in the previous issue, for clarity the process should be carefully followed via the magazine steps.

For the ‘bare spars’ model, omit steps 2-3 (preparing of the fore sail)

Step 1 - Use 0.25mm natural thread to tie the footropes (horses) to the yard.

Step 4 - You will need to refer to the inset diagram on page 9. The yard is supported on port and starboard tyes. Make the port one first. Tie a 5mm double block to a 600mm length of 0.5mm natural thread.
Now tie a 4mm single block to a 150mm length of 0.5mm natural thread, and add a 700mm lasher from 0.25mm natural thread.

Tie the 150mm thread to the rearmost eyebolt on the forward chainwale, which already has the royal backstay attached. You will need to release the aft two deadeyes. The single block should be about 25-30mm above the chainwale.

Feed the 600mm thread through the left hole in the large double block below the crosstrees. Leave the 5mm double block on the other end hanging down beside the fore mast.

Now hold the yard roughly in position and feed the end of the 600mm thread through the left-hand hole in the double block on the yard. Pull the thread through both blocks until the 5mm double block on the other end is roughly in line with the catharpins on the fore mast shrouds.

Lash the lower (4mm) and upper (5mm) blocks together using the 0.25mm thread so that the upper block will sit a little way below the catharpins – about 150mm above the deck.

Pull the free end of the tye to raise the yard until the two blocks touch, then tie off the end of the tye to the topmast above the shrouds.

Repeat from step 4 on the other side of the model, then tension both tyes with the lashings and tie them off to the aft-but-one eyebolt.

Adding the parrel - Make the parrel in the same way as in Issue 105, but this time use six of the diecast metal ribs and ten beads. Then tie the parrel to the yard and around the mast in the same way as you did with the fore yard.

Rigging the sail - Omit Steps 1-10 if you are making a ‘bare spars’ model.

We start at step 11 - Making the Lifts which is applicable to both versions of the model - You will need to refer to the image on page 11.

To make the lifts (rope D), take an 850mm length of 0.25mm natural thread. Tie one end to the eye on the topmast cap.Take the thread down through the block on the end of the yard.
Take the thread back up through the block on the mast cap, now take the thread down and tie it off to the second shroud.
You can now seal and trim all the deadeye lashings on the fore mast chainwale.

Repeat Steps 11-14 on the other side of the model.

Rigging the braces - Carry out all these steps whether or not you are adding the sails.
You will need to refer to the image on page 13. Do not overtighten the braces or you may cause the stays to slacken off.

Prepare port and starboard braces (rope E) from 1.1m lengths of 0.25mm natural thread, with a 4mm single block tied about 50mm from one end.Use the short ends of thread to tie both blocks to the main stay, just above the block carrying the fore yard braces.
Take the long ends up through the single blocks in the ends of the yard, then back to the blocks just fitted.
Take the threads through their blocks and down to the deck, and tie the two threads off to the second-from-middle pins on the cockpit pinrail.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 107 - Contains the fore topgallant sail, dummy 32-pounder guns & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore topgallant yard & sail, rigging the fore topgallant, adding the lifts and braces, further rigging of the mizzen and securing the staysails.

Issue 108 - Contains the main sail, parrel spacers, blocks, glass beads, eyebolts and a 12-pounder gun kit., and has instructions for fitting the main sail, rigging the yard & sail, and adding the forecastle guns (Victory carried two at Trafalgar).

Issue 109 - Contains parts to built the 18ft cutter, figurehead castings & thread., and has instructions for making the 18ft cutter, adding the figurehead and rigging the spritsail.

Issue 110 - Contains the main topsail, blocks, parrel spacers, dummy guns, glass beads and eyebolts., and has instructions for the fitting of the main topsail & yard, rigging the main topsail, fitting the sprit sail, topsail yard and sail.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 17 April 2012 16:28:34

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Issue 107 - Contains the fore topgallant sail, dummy 32-pounder guns & blocks., and has instructions for preparing the fore topgallant yard & sail, rigging the fore topgallant, adding the lifts and braces, further rigging of the mizzen and securing the staysails.

Preparing the fore topgallant yard - This was assembled in Issue 73. Use 0.25mm natural thread for the rigging, and if you are making a bare spars model, omit Steps 2 and 3.

Attach the footropes (horses) as shown in Issue 104, page 13, step 3.

Rigging the fore topgallant - For the 'bare spars' model, omit all but the first three steps, which add the tye that supports the yard.
Tie a 700mm length of 0.25mm natural thread to the centre of the yard by wrapping it around the yard twice and securing it with two half-hitches close to one end. (This forms the tye). Then feed the tye through the upper hole in the fore topgallant, just below the octagonal collar.
Drop the tye down through the hole in the fore top and secure it to the pin second from the left (port) side in the rack behind the fore mast, pulling the yard up as high as it will go.

Adding the lifts and braces - Fit these lines whether or not you are adding sails and use 0.25mm natural thread throughout.
These are similar to the previous lifts & braces, which for clarity are best followed via the steps., other than to say that for the bare spars version, and of no sail weight being upon the yard, you will need to adjust the lifts and braces together so that slight tension is upon the yard to make the ropes appear taught.

Rigging the mizzen - The mizzen was rigged in Issue 103 but does not yet have all the lines that control the sail. Use 0.25mm natural thread throughout. Omit Steps 8-14 if you are making a 'bare spars' model.

Tie 300mm lengths of thread just above both blocks on the end of the driver boom. Then Lace each of these threads to one of the single blocks on the outboard eyebolts on the taffrail. Feed the thread through the block on the taffrail, back through the block hanging from the boom, and finally secure the thread to the eyebolt itself.

Tie a 5mm single block to some thread, leaving a 150mm tail. Tie this to the gaff boom next to the double blocks, so that the block hangs down about 80mm from the boom.

Tie a 550mm length of thread to the block and thread it to the unused outer block mounted on the taffrail, in the same way as Step 2. Repeat on the other side of the sail.

Tie a 650mm length of thread to the end of the driver boom and lead it diagonally up the sail. Then thread it through the single block just below the mizzen mast cap.

Feed the thread down the holes in the sides of the mizzen top, and secure the thread to the first belaying pin on the mizzen mast. Repeat on the other side of the model.

Securing the staysails - Omit these lines if you are making the 'bare spars' model, but you may wish to fit the eyebolts.
Carefully drill 0.7mm holes just inboard of the ladders leading up to the poop deck on both sides of the model, and fit two eyebolts.
Drill two more 0.7mm holes and fit two more eyebolts about 6mm from the poop deck bulwark, level with the second hammock crane.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 108 - Contains the main sail, parrel spacers, blocks, glass beads, eyebolts and a 12-pounder gun kit., and has instructions for fitting the main sail, rigging the main yard & sail, and adding the forecastle guns (Victory carried two at Trafalgar).

Issue 109 - Contains parts to built the 18ft cutter, figurehead castings & thread., and has instructions for making the 18ft cutter, adding the figurehead and rigging the spritsail.

Issue 110 - Contains the main topsail, blocks, parrel spacers, dummy guns, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for the fitting of the main topsail and yard, rigging the main topsail, fitting the sprit sail, topsail yard and sail

Issue 111 - Contains the main topgallant sail, dummy guns & blocks., and has instructions for fitting the main topgallant yard & sail, and rigging the main topgallant.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 24 April 2012 17:56:47

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 44,244
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Issue 108 - Contains the main sail, parrel spacers, blocks, glass beads, eyebolts and a 12-pounder gun kit., and has instructions for fitting the main sail, rigging the yard & sail, and adding the forecastle guns.

Fitting the mainsail yard - Is similar to the fitting of the foremast main yard. Use 0.25mm thread except where otherwise stated.
For the 'bare spars' option, omit steps 2 and 3 (which relate to the fitting of the main sail).

Use 0.25mm natural thread to tie the footropes (horses) to the main yard. Then cut two 600mm lengths of 0.5mm natural thread and tie them to the yard just inboard of the large double blocks. These will make the jeer falls.

Cut a 600mm length of 0.5mm natural thread to make the yard sling. Tie it to the centre of the yard, leaving one tail about 250mm long and the other about 350mm long. Insert the yard between the mast and the rigging already fitted.

Lash the double blocks and triple blocks together using the jeer falls. Raise the yard so that the blocks are almost touching.Then tie the yard sling using the same method you used on the fore yard (see Issue 105 page 9).
Make up and fit the parrel using the same method you used for the fore yard (issue 105 page 10), then tie the jeer falls off to the eyebolts either side of the main mast.

Rigging the yard and sail - Use 0.25mm thread throughout, and omit steps 4-15 for the 'bare spars' version.
Note that the braces will be fitted to the yardarms later, as they make access to the mizzen difficult.

Make the yard tackle pendant (A) by fitting a double block (provided in issue 96) to the end of the yard on a 60mm tail.

Make the inner tricing line (B) by tying a 900mm length of thread to the eyebolt behind the fifth and sixth deadeyes. To ease access, you'll find it easier to release two or three deadeyes.
Lash the yard tackle pendant to the block behind the fifth and sixth deadeyes using the inner tricing line, and secure the free end underneath the sixth deadeye. Don't forget to replace the deadeye lashings.

Cut an 850mm length of thread to make the lift (G). Tie this to the eyebolt on the mast cap.

Run the thread to the outer block on the end of the yard, passing it through whichever gap in the shrouds gives the thread a straight run, as you did on the foremast. Then take the thread back through the block on the mast cap.
Repeat steps on the other side of the model.

Take the threads down and secure them to the fourth belaying pins on each side of the model. Tension both threads at the same time so the mast cap blocks are pulled evenly and that the yard sits level.

Adding the forecastle guns - As rigged for battle at Trafalgar, Victory carried two additional 12-pounders on her forward deck. The kit of parts for one of these is supplied with this issue, and the other was supplied with issue 76.
Construct the guns following the assembly instructions in issue 14, and finish them in your chosen guise (painted or left natural), it is not necessary to add any eyebolts or rigging to their carriages.

Glue the guns to the forward deck using superglue. The rear wheels of the carriages should be in line with the front edge of the rear grating and the guns should be halfway between the grating and the bulwark.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 109 - Contains parts to built the 18ft cutter, figurehead castings & thread., and has instructions for making the 18ft cutter, adding the figurehead and rigging the spritsail.

Issue 110 - Contains the main topsail, blocks, parrel spacers, dummy guns, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for the fitting of the main topsail and yard, rigging the main topsail, fitting the sprit sail, topsail yard and sail

Issue 111 - Contains the main topgallant sail, dummy guns & blocks., and has instructions for fitting the main topgallant yard and sail, and rigging the main topgallant.

Issue 112 - Contains the mizzen topsail, assorted blocks, glass beads and parrel spacers., and has instructions for fitting the cross jack yard & mizzen topmast yard and sail.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 01 May 2012 18:40:28

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 109 - Contains parts to built the 18ft cutter, figurehead castings & thread., and has instructions for assembling the 18ft cutter, adding the figurehead and spritsail yard - a lot to do!

Making the 18ft cutter - The process is similar to that of constructing the Launch. Refer to Issues 6 and 7 for general guidance on planking the cutter. You can use superglue to construct the cutter, but use it sparingly to avoid gluing your fingers to the planks!

Carefully remove the frame base and frames 3 to 10 from the ply sheet. Glue frames 4 to 10 to the base, ensuring that they are all upright and in line, then glue the frames into position

Remove the keel and transom (11) parts from the sheet, then chamfer the edge of slot 11 in the ply base so the transom can lean forward.
Locate the transom in place ensuring it is in line with the other frames, trimming the sides of the tab if necessary.
Lay the keel in place and angle the transom so its tip meets the end of the keel - DO NOT glue the keel into place at this stage.
Glue the transom in place ensuring that the side with the etched line faces outwards.

Use a small sanding block or nail emery board to fair the edges of the frames to follow the curve of the hull. Taper the bow frame (3) on both sides so it comes to a point.

Bend a length of 0.6 x 3mm plank and glue it so that the lower edge sits on the steps in the frames. Then trim the front end of the plank so that it ends on the centre of the bow. Repeat on the other side of the boat.

Glue garboard planks either side of the keel. Again, trim the front ends to meet at the bow. Then add another plank next to the garboard plank. This plank should be tapered so that it fits neatly, (refer to issue 7 for tapering instructions). Trim the planks at the stern so they are flush with the transom.

Continue to plank the rest of the hull, working from keel to gunwale. When the planking is complete, carefully scrape away any glue or pencil marks.
Give the model a coat of sanding sealer and then gently sand it with fine sandpaper. Be careful not to sand right through the planks, as they are very thin!

Carefully sand a flat on the bow until the pointed edge of frame 3 just starts to show, then glue the keel into place ensuring that it run straight and level.

Add the floorboards, by glueing two 43mm-long strips of 1 x 3mm wood to the bottom of the boat, leaving a small gap between them, then fit another two strips of 1 x 3mm wood after tapering them at the front and back to fit the hull profile.
The bow and stern grids are supplied oversized and need trimming to fit your model. Cut them with scissors so that they rest on the ends of the planks just fitted, the steps say to glue them in place though I opted to see how the boat will be finished, you might also want to do the same for the floorboards.

The rest of the hull will be fitted out later on, so carefully store the boat, grids and remaining ply parts until then.

The figurehead - In addition to the metal castings supplied with this issue, you will need the figurehead support bracket that was supplied with issue 86.
Start by attaching the crown to the top of the shield. File a flat on the top of the scroll above the shield and glue the crown in place with super glue.
Glue the shield assembly to a scrap of plank, using a drop of super glue to provide a handle that will make it easier to hold while painting.

Carefully follow the magazine steps for painting the shield, cherubs, support bracket & motto strip, and use a fine brush for picking out the details.
I chose to further detail the support bracket using black paint, by filling in the background areas.

Attaching the shield to the stem post - Start by releasing the bowsprit shrouds and bobstays.
You may need to reduce the height of the step in the stem post so that the crown is just below the bowsprit.
Hold the top of the shield in line with the top of the stem post, with its crown just below the bowsprit. Mark the bottom of the shield on the stem post. Then cut away the wood on the stem post with a razor saw.

Glue the shield in place using superglue, make sure it is central and upright.
Carefully bend the motto strip around the base of the shield, then trim the ends to length with scissors. Prime the strip, paint it blue and pick out the lettering in gold.
Hold the strip in position and glue the support bracket in place, ensuring you don’t cover the bobstay hole. Then fix the ends of the strip with spots of superglue.

The cherubs are handed, glue the cherubs to the back of the shield and position so that the raised hand is resting on the crown.

Re-fix the bowsprit rigging, then seal and trim the lashings.

Attaching the spritsail yard - The spritsail yard was prepared in issue 104. The buntlines, clewlines and lifts have a very similar arrangement to those previously fitted.

Note - You should omit steps 12 to 15 if you are building the 'bare spars' version of the model, (the magazine text says omit 12 to 16).

Start by drilling three equally spaced 0.7mm holes on the top of both roundhouses. Glue an eyebolt (provided in issue 108) into each hole.

Take the spritsail and yard (or just the yard for the 'bare spars' option), and tie 250mm of 0.5mm thread about 5mm to the port of centre, this is the Sling.

Hold the yard centrally under the bees and loop the thread over the end of the bees from left to right.
Tie the other end of the sling to the other side of the yard, so the yard hangs just below the bowsprit, then seal and trim the knots.

To make the travelling guys (rope A), tie two 500mm lengths of 0.25mm thread to the bowsprit, halfway between the middle and upper bindings. Lead one out to port, and one to starboard.

Tie both guys to the spritsail yard near to the outer footrope supports. Rig both sides at the same time to make sure that the yard is straight and true. Pass the thread over the yard, and under the yard from the back, then tie the knot and lead the spare thread aft. Use a simple overhand knot, which is easy to adjust.
Tie both threads to the inboard eyebolts, making sure that the yard is still straight and true.

The guy pendants (rope B) are rigged much like the travelling guys. Tie two 550mm lengths of 0.25mm thread close to the end of the bowsprit, and knot them around the yard about 5mm further out from the travelling guy, so that they end up as shown in step 10. Tie them off to the middle eyebolts, as shown in step 11.

The flying jibboom guys (rope C) follow a similar route to the others. Tie 600mm lengths of thread to the end of the flying jibboom and lead them back on each side of the bowsprit.

Knot the guys around the yard about 5mm further out from the guy pendants and tie the threads off to the outermost eyebolts on top of the roundhouses.

Note - On the 'bare spars' version, you will need to tie two single blocks just forward of the mast cap on the bowsprit. These were omitted from the 'bare spars' build as they were not star marked on the plan for placement on this version, (they are shown on the plan in relation to the version with sails).

To rig the spritsail yard lift ropes (F), tie 600mm of 0.25mm thread to the eyebolt on the bowsprit cap, run it down to the block on the end of the yard, back to the block just forward of the cap, and tie off to the same timberhead as the buntline (just inboard of the U-channel on top of the bulkhead). Repeat on the other side.

(Ropes 'D' and 'E' relate to the version with sails).

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 110 - Contains the main topsail, blocks, parrel spacers, dummy guns, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for the fitting of the main topsail and yard, rigging the main topsail, fitting the sprit sail, topsail yard and sail

Issue 111 - Contains the main topgallant sail, dummy guns & blocks., and has instructions for fitting the main topgallant yard and sail, and rigging the main topgallant.

Issue 112 - Contains the mizzen topsail, assorted blocks, glass beads and parrel spacers., and has instructions for fitting the cross jack yard & mizzen topmast yard and sail.

Issue 113 - Contains the mizzen topgallant sail, assorted blocks, glass beads, parrel spacers, oars, brass gratings, diecast barrel & bucket, bras wire & strip., and has instructions for fitting and rigging the mizzen topgallant yard & sail and fitting the mizzen bowlines.

Issue 114 - Contains dummy gun barrels, anchor kit, blocks and thread., and has instructions for fitting the anchors and adding the bowsprit yard braces.

Issue 115 - Contains frame parts for the 28ft Pinnace boat, blocks & dummy guns., and has instructions for continuing the bowlines and the construction of the Pinnace boat.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 08 May 2012 11:17:03

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Issue 110 - Contains the main topsail, blocks, parrel spacers, dummy guns, glass beads & eyebolts., and has instructions for the fitting of the main topsail and yard, rigging the main topsail, fitting the sprit sail, topsail yard and sail.

For clarity, process is best followed via the magazine steps, but here is the process for the 'bare spars' version.

Fitting the main topsail yard - The topsail was prepared in issue 72. Omit steps 3 and 4 if you are building the 'bare spars' version (attaching the sail).

Drill a 0.7mm hole and fit an eyebolt just aft of the openings in the bulwark on each side of the ship, roughly in line with the mast, and fitted about 2mm inboard.

Add the footropes (horses) to the yard using the same technique as before.

Cut two 700mm lengths of 0.5mm thread to make the tyes and tie them to the topmast above the shrouds, with one tye on each side of the mast. Then thread the two tyes through the double block on the yard,running one tye through each hole, from front to back. Then feed the two tyes through the holes on the larger double block on the mast.
Feed the threads down through the main top to the eyebolts by the main mast. Pull the yard up as high as it will comfortably go. Tie the threads off, seal and trim the knots.

Prepare the parrel using the method that was explained in issue 106, page 10. Then attach it to the yard and rig it around the mast in the same way as you did before.

Rigging the main topsail - Use 0.25mm natural throughout, and omit steps 1 to 8 if you are building the 'bare spars' model (ropes A, B & C).

We start at step 9 - Cut 900mm of 0.25mm thread to make the lift (rope D). Tie it to the eye on the mainmast cap, feed it through the block on the end of the yard and back through the block on the mast cap. Then tie it to the fifth shroud. Repeat on the other side of the model.

Cut two 1m lengths of 0.25mm thread to make the braces (rope E), and tie a single block about 50mm from one end. Tie the blocks to the stay just below the mizzen top and take the long tails up to the blocks on the ends of the yard. Then double the threads back on themselves and take them back to the blocks just fitted.
Tie the threads off to the front outboard eyes by the mizzen mast. Tension both sides together to make sure the yard stays square.

Fitting the spritsail topsail yard and sail - Use 0.25mm natural thread throughout, and omit steps 2, 4, 5, 6, 10 and 11 if you are building the 'bare spars' model, (ropes F & H).

Take the topsail yard and tie a 250mm length of thread about 5mm to one side of the centre to make the parrel rope.
Secure the yard to the jibboom with the parrel rope, in the same way as the spritsail yard in issue 109. The parrel may be in front of or behind the travelling guys, but should be close to them.

Cut two 600mm lengths of thread to form the lifts (rope G) and tie them to the ends of the yard, then take them through the blocks on the end of the jibboom.Tie them off to the timberhead just outboard of the
U-channel. Tension both sides at the same time, and make sure the yard is square.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 111 - Contains the main topgallant sail, dummy guns & blocks., and has instructions for fitting the main topgallant yard and sail, and rigging the main topgallant.

Issue 112 - Contains the mizzen topsail, assorted blocks, glass beads and parrel spacers., and has instructions for fitting the cross jack yard & mizzen topmast yard and sail.

Issue 113 - Contains the mizzen topgallant sail, assorted blocks, glass beads, parrel spacers, oars, brass gratings, diecast barrel & bucket, brass wire & strip., and has instructions for fitting and rigging the mizzen topgallant yard & sail, and fitting the mizzen bowlines.

Issue 114 - Contains dummy gun barrels, anchor kit, blocks and thread., and has instructions for fitting the anchors, and adding the bowsprit yard braces.

Issue 115 - Contains frame parts for the 28ft Pinnace boat, blocks & dummy guns., and has instructions for continuing the bowlines and the construction of the Pinnace boat.

Issue 116 - Contains dummy gun barrels, wood strips, pins, blocks, eyebolts, brass strip & davit brackets., and has instructions for constructing and rigging the quarter davits.
You have the option of fitting the davits in their vertical (stowed) position, or in their lowered (ready for use) position.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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