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The DeAgostini 1/8th Scale Ferrari 312 T4 Options
Kev the Modeller
#101 Posted : 31 October 2021 23:15:49

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Looking good as always Robin, There's more 'scratching' going on here than on a flea bitten dog! You're gonna end up with more scratchbuilt parts than standard kit parts by the time this is finished, but I'm sure it will be very much worth the extra effort when you have a very detailed model that looks so much better than the standard build!?

Very well done and many thanks for the doff of your cap regarding those little bits of advice that you've used!

Keep up the good work. Drool ThumpUp

Kev

Per Ardua Ad Astra
roymattblack
#102 Posted : 02 November 2021 09:26:54

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Some seriously good detailing going on here Robin.
I love all the little extra's you're adding.
It makes a world of difference.Love
Plymouth57
#103 Posted : 06 November 2021 21:21:55

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Sincerest thanks to Mark, Chris, Kev and Roy for those kind words, much appreciated as always!Blushing
This installment finishes off the firewall 'bits and pieces' with the fuel valve bracket and addition of the 'dangly bits' on the Oil expansion tank. I've found some new photos of the 312T5 which, although there are a few minor alterations to the engine layout from the T4 does have pretty much the same components with some more clues as to the wiring and pipework. Hopefully they'll come in handy later on!Cool
I'm aching all over at the moment - pretty sure its from having my flu jab on Thursday - I don't normally get anything beyond the sore arm where the needle went in but I think this year's dose is a little more potent due to last year's 'holiday' from seasonal flu!Blink
Anyway!....
So, now for the fuel valve support bracket. It’s a strange looking thing, it only encompasses half of the valve body with no visible means of holding the valve in place. Although, having said that, there is a shot of the valve in one of my reference pics that does appear to (possibly) be a large black cable tie (zip cable?) going around both the circumference of the valve and also around the bracket – I might have to look at that a little closer! Photo 26 shows the start of the bracket with the kit valve together with a short piece of the semi-self-adhesive DecraLed. The round diamond dust rat tail file shown alongside was used to finish off the raised channel seen running along the lead which was started off with a large darning needle. This was impressed into the back face of the strip and is necessary to allow the strip to encompass the valve over its raised rim seen towards the bottom (I’m wondering if this is supposed to represent that cable tie!) The next step was to trim the width of the strip down so it was the same size as the larger cylinder on the valve as shown in Photo 27. Then, using the razor blade cutter the rimmed strip was cut to length starting at the rear locating peg, and coming about one third of the way towards the front of the valve. Once it was cut to size and ‘tacked’ down in place a drop of thin superglue was applied to seal it down. To make the two flanges on the top and bottom of the bracket I went back to the set of leather hole punches I built up making my paper model Sopwith Pups (I used them for cutting out the rotary engine cylinders amongst other larger round parts). Two of these are seen in Photo 28 and were used to cut out a plasticard disk and then punch out the centre of that to fit the valve (that bit is still in the front of the smaller punch). The black arrow points to the DecraLed strip in place around the valve body as mentioned above.
I then had to slice off the part of the disk beyond the rear locating peg, pencil mark the curved end of the disk just beyond the lead strip and cut that back, sanding it down into the curved end shown in Photo 29. I had hoped to be able to make both flanges from the one disk but after rounding off the end of the top right piece of plasticard it was about half a mm too short! A couple of hammer taps later I had made up the second disk and that made up the second flange, both of which are seen superglued in position in Photo 30. Photos 31 and 32 show the painting of the bracket, first a couple of coats of Vallejo Grey Primer followed by a single coat of The Army Painter Warpaints: Rough Iron. Once all was dry I then dry-brushed it with a drop of the grey primer to simulate the wear and tear seen in the reference photo. The final effect, minus its electrical wires, is shown in Photo 33 with the valve firmly pushed into its locating hole in the firewall. The wires will be added in after the engine section has been fixed onto the body of the car, that cut out visible at top right is for one of the two big support struts that join the firewall to the engine block – I’ve already been bitten once with the oil expansion tank’s outlets – I’ll wait and make sure the wires don’t foul the struts (or anything else) first!BigGrin
Now its back to Kev’s Veniard yellow tubing! As I mentioned earlier, I bought a pack of the larger 1mm tubing to try out and as I said then, it turned out to be too small for the fuel lines in this scale. However, with a little help its just right for the expansion tank. Photo 34 shows my first trial outlet made up on the end of a length of the 1mm aluminium tubing. The clear tubing on the end is from another modelling supplier on ebay and is 1.2mm in diameter. This fits extremely well but is too thick and too stiff to form the oil lines. The bottom half of the photo shows the Veniard yellow tubing which is just the right size for the lines and beautifully flexible too. Unfortunately at 1mm diameter it’s also too small to fit the 1mm aluminium!Blink The solution is shown in Photo 35 – gently push the tube end over a suitable needle tip, this one is an old brass ended tool from a dissection kit (no, I can’t remember how on earth I ended up with a dissection kit!) The problem then becomes as soon as the tubing is removed from the needle it immediately returns to its original size. The second solution I discovered is to pour hot water over the tubing whilst it is on the needle and let it cool down again. We have a nifty little water boiler which we use now instead of a kettle, this keeps the water at 85 degrees all day (using a measly 2W of power to do it) and that temperature seems to be ideal for this procedure. As you can see in the lower half of the photo, once cooled down the tube end retains its stretched opening compared to the original end shown below (and this is how it would also look after stretching over the needle and removing without the hot water).
This then allows the tubing to fit over the connectors as shown in Photo 36 (the tube on the bottom is just a short piece used to test the fit). The second tube that I knew where to position is shown in Photo 37, this one passes behind the alternator and drops into a conduit down the left hand side, and finally, Photo 38 shows all the oil lines in position, even though I have no idea where the heck the others go to! (Almost every reference photo shows them going somewhere different, that’s the problem when your references are not only contemporary ‘vintage shots), but also modern photos of ‘re-conditioned’ classic cars. Oh well, there’s bound to be some dark recesses where things go in but never come out!BigGrin
In the next installment, its away from the little details and back to the massive again, with the main forward section incorporating the driver’s cockpit.
Until then, keep safe and Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Firewall pic 5.JPG
Firewall pic 6.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Gandale
#104 Posted : 07 November 2021 12:26:36

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Exceptionally high class work Robin, your attention to detail is forever abundant....Love Love Love ... Love it...Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Markwarren
#105 Posted : 07 November 2021 17:30:39

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Love what you are going with this kit. Love Love

Mark
bfam4t6
#106 Posted : 08 November 2021 03:49:33

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Loving all the custom details and explanations Robin!
-Dustin

“Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail.”
-Leonardo Da Vinci

Currently Building:
-Porsche 2.7 RS
-Jaguar E-Type


Currently Collecting
-Ferrari F40
-Ferrari 250 GTO
-Lamborghini Miura
-Ford GT40
-Ecto-1
-Japanese Zero

Kev the Modeller
#107 Posted : 17 November 2021 21:59:31

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Lovely work all round Robin and looking like a seriously detailed engine now - or a large plate of spaghetti!! LOL ThumpUp

Looking forward to your next update already. Cool

Kev

Per Ardua Ad Astra
Plymouth57
#108 Posted : 17 November 2021 22:19:44

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Many thanks indeed to Alan, Mark, Dustin and Kev!Blushing Blushing
I'm in a bit of a waiting game at the moment! I'm in the process of re-painting the big 'aluminium' cockpit piece, I've airbrushed it with the Vallejo Duraluminium which looks great but I want to try and add some depth to the bottom interior by airbrushing one of the darker Vallejo metal colours and I'm waiting for that to arrive.
In the meantime I thought I'd save some time by jumping ahead and completing the suspension and brakes for the other front wheel. I needed to apply the Humbrol Blue Grey enamel wash to the disk brake as before, but when I opened up the bottle the ruddy stuff has turned from a thin wash to a thick jelly! I managed to do the brake with the help of some white spirit but the stuff doesn't dissolve as easily as you'd think (it does when its still liquid though), so anyway, I'm now also waiting for a new bottle of enamel wash (and a black one too) and after finding that the Humbrol youtube videos tell you to dilute it with their enamel thinners, a large bottle of that too!Crying This is the second bottle of wash that's gone like this, still got the first one so I'll find out if that one will dilute back down after all this time as well! I also need the blue grey to detail some of the fuel tank gubbins on the top of the cockpit so I'm waiting on that bit too!Blink
In the meantime I've delved back into some paper modelling as you can see in the Christmas Cutie!BigGrin
See you all when the bits have arrived!

Robin.
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Gibbo
#109 Posted : 18 November 2021 23:37:39

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H Robin
Wow what a prize, Just caught up on your build, another fine piece of innovative scratch building and weathering, just what we've come to expect from you, hope all is well with you and your mum, please send her our regards.
Paul
Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. DeAgostini HMS VictoryCollecting: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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