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The DeAgostini 1/8th Scale Ferrari 312 T4 Options
#21 Posted : 04 May 2021 09:25:58

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Interesting update. I've been wondering about trying those Vallejo metal colours. Can't wait to see more on this build.
#22 Posted : 08 May 2021 19:40:42

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Many thanks to Trev, Roy, Carl and Malc for their kind comments and very welcome advice!Cool
Malc, those Vallejo paints are proving to be pretty good so far and I certainly prefer to use acrylics where possible (I just hate the longer smelly clean up required after spirit and lacquer based paints through the airbrush!)
So for the final step on the front wing it was time to add the kit decals. Photo 25 shows those decals, the ones with the light blue background. Behind them are the ‘spares’ I created by scanning the originals into my ancient Corel Printhouse graphic design program (Millennium Edition, 21 years old now!) Thinking back many decades to when I first began model making (Card and bagged Airfix kits of course), my first aircraft models always ended up with odd shaped roundels – I didn’t realise until later that the decals came off the sheet ready formed – I thought I had to cut them out right up to the edge, hence the slightly ‘un-round’ roundels!Blushing No such problem these days thankfully! You might be wondering why there are a lot of Ferrari logo badges included in my spare set. Two main reasons, firstly I might design a nameplate decal for the completed base with the car details etc so I’m thinking of having the Ferrari logo as a part of that. Secondly, some might have realised that the ‘raw’ chrome plated wing actually has a tiny Ferrari badge in the centre of the wing. After coats of black primer, semi-matt aluminium, metal varnish, dull aluminium and more metal varnish I have what’s shown in the cut out at bottom right. I found a clip art of the badge on the web and downloaded it to form the largest example shown here, then progressively reduced it down until I had the smallest size (black arrow) which I thought was correct for the raised location. In actual fact, when I went to fit it in place it turned out to be the next size up I wanted indicated by the red arrow, so I used the single example of that one instead (and then deleted the block of ‘too smalls’ and replaced them with duplicates of the ‘just right’)BigGrin . Why this badge wasn’t a part of the kit decals to apply at the same time I don’t know, perhaps it was considered too small a decal for first time builders to struggle with – understandable but more work!
After all the trials of the metal finish I thought the decal applying was going to be the easy part but I was surprised just how difficult it turned out to be! Admittedly, I was not exactly following the official instructions! They tell you to cut out the decals close to the edge, which I did, and then to soak them in warm water for 30 seconds before sliding them off the backing sheet. I was soaking the first of the Agip adverts in Humbrol Decalfix, which was at room temperature. After 30 seconds I tried to move the decal- no joy, after two minutes still nothing. It took about ten minutes before the transfer would begin to move and even then very slowly with the ‘glue’ very sticky to the touch. Placing the Agip in position was also more difficult as I had glued the end brackets in place before airbrushing the entire wing whereas the instructions have the decals going on before the brackets, which makes sense as there’s no obstruction in the way to sliding the decal off the backing! The other ‘slight’ problem is that the original chrome wing has tiny little placement marks printed on it to slide the decals up to, mine of course were under the same layers of airbrushing as the logo badge! Anyhow, I eventually managed to ease the decal off and into position where it received another brushing with the decalfix to seal it down to the surface. See Photo 26 for the first decal in place. For the bigger Michelin sign in the centre I put the decalfix into a cleaned out plastic butter container and sat it on the heat mat I use for warming my resins and plasticene. This was better but even then took a good 5 minutes to release and a couple of tries with the tweezers to get the upper edge parallel with the top of the wing. Last came the opposite Agip decal which I found slightly overlapped the Michelin so whilst still wet I snipped off a thin sliver from the left side to obtain the same little gap as with the left hand Agip to even it out. The three kit decals are safely down in position in Photo 27. Lastly came the little home made Ferrari badge to replace the painted over original as shown in Photo 28. This one slid off the backing in about two minutes! As far as the decals are concerned, I would say in conclusion if you are using the chrome plated wing unaltered, follow the kit instructions and place the decals first, if you are ‘toning down’ the silver like me, gluing on the side brackets first to airbrush the whole assembly is probably unavoidable but definitely warm up your water or decal solution first!Blink
The final part of this first section is to attach the completed front wing onto the metal nose cone. This is accomplished by a plug and socket joint secured with a single screw. The plug part is formed by the rear of the underside support bracket, which is shown in Photo 29. Ignore the ‘rough’ finish on the plug part – this slides into the ‘T’ shaped socket on the front of the nose cone illustrated in Photo 30. The fit is very snug indeed and the rough edges on the bracket are the result of test fitting it on the nose, and then pulling it out again! To secure the wing in place, one of the Type B screws is screwed down through the hole in the bracket into the corresponding hole in the nose cone below shown in the final Photo 31. I won’t be doing this just yet – the instructions say to screw it together and then put it aside in a safe place until later. I’ve just got a safe place – I bought a nice big ‘small parts’ carry box down the local B&M store, the sort with removable dividers to create large and small compartments. Take out two dividers and I have a perfect compartment for the wing to sit in – add the nose cone and it won’t fit anywhere! So the wing goes in the enlarged compartment and its nose cone with attached screw goes in the one next to it, all safe and sound.
The next section to begin is one of the front disk brake mechanisms but before that I’m going to try a bit of practice painting on the slick tyre to pick out the ‘Goodyear’ lettering and add some of the crayon/chalk marks that appear in the Haynes Manual photos.
Until then stay safe as always and Happy Modelling to you All!

Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Section 1 Front wing pic 6.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
#23 Posted : 09 May 2021 11:07:22

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Starting to show signs of a good build, Robin well done finding the clipart badge makes all the difference.


Work in progress: Artesania Stage-Coach.

Scratch Build: Tombstone Arizona Diorama

Finished builds: Westland Lysander MK.11 plus large Diorama.

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