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Shelby Cobra 427 Semi Competition Options
Coser
#21 Posted : 29 November 2020 05:26:40

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Stage 21 - Rear Chassis and wishbone mounting



Firstly the rear chassis component is attached to the main chassis frame, completing the last tubular section of the chassis.



As with all the chassis pieces, this goes together well.





The three smaller circles in this picture are holes, the larger one is a witness mark and has no effect. The three holes are two screw locations and a pin location. There is only one pin on the wishbone mounting, so it should be easy to get these parts connected correctly.



The wishbone mounting is attached to the underside of the chassis frame, and the four screws used for this are the only ones visible on the underside of the frame.






The final two stages in this pack are for the second wheel. Inner wheel and wheel front in one bag, wheel rear and tyre in the other. No steering or brake parts, so I presume they will be in pack 4.

I have already covered the construction of the first wheel in this thread, so will not be repeating that now.

Once the tyre is on the wheel, that is all to do in this pack.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#22 Posted : 16 January 2021 15:57:47

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Here we are again, happy as can be .....

Pack 4 arrived today, and I got stuck straight in.



Stage 24, Right front wheel brake parts.



This stage is a mirror image of the left brake parts completed previously.



Take the hub piece and pish it into the spinner.



The brake disk is installed on the axle.





And the caliper is screwed to the axle component.





Retrieve the wheel we completed last month.



Place the axle and brake disk into the wheel, ensuring the lugs in teh brake disc correctly align with the spaces for them in the wheel.



Screw in from the outside with a flanged screw, and add the magnetic spinner.



That completes stage 24.

Stage 25, Left and right floor panels.

This stage sees the chassis start to transform into a rolling chassis.



As they are in this picture, the panels are as they would be seen from underneath, the battery box sits below the panel.



Retrieve the chassis, and prepare to mount the first plate. At this point I will explain how I use screws going into metal parts on this model.

As none of the screw locations are pre-tapped, I take one of the spare screws and dip it in a little oil. This will help when cutting the threads to accept the screw. I also screw directly into the location without the connecting part present. I go in for about a turn, reverse for about half a turn, and repeat until the screw bottoms out in the location.

Once I have completed one screw location, I re-dip the screw in the oil, and work on the next. Once all screw locations have been tapped this way, I discard the screw I used and connect the parts with fresh screws.



Take the floor plate with the battery box.



Place it in this location, and secure it with four screws.



Repeat this for the other plate on the other side of the chassis.

(and here is where I started to get a bit excited)



Take a note of these locations on the floor plates.



As these are where the engine goes.



Held in by a single screw each side.



Starting to get a real impression of the size now.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#23 Posted : 16 January 2021 16:16:34

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Stage 26, rear left brake unit.



This stage is similar to the front brake units, but the axle is somewhat different.



But it goes together just the same as the previous brake units.











It is worth noting that the online instructions have a silver axle component, but they do say that the black one is correct. I assume they were using a prototype part for their pictures.

Stage27, starting the differential housing.



We receive the first housing half, three pins, two connectors, and two drive shafts.





Take the housing and install the short connectors, ensuring the rounded side of the connectors fit snuggly into the housing, and secure with a screw.





Take the right hand drive shaft (Looking from the rear) and place it over the connector so that the thinner section is closest to the differential housing and that the drive shaft angles backwards.



Repeat this for the left drive shaft.



Take the left rear brake unit from stage 26.



Use a pin to secure it in this position. The callipers should be facing forward, towards the thin end of the differential housing. Push the smooth end of the pin through the hole first, aligning it carefully through the tube in the brake unit, and into the hole on the other side. I used a pair of pliers to then pish the knurled section of the in into place, securing it in place and keeping the brake unit on the drive shaft whilst allowing it to rotate on the pin.

Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#24 Posted : 16 January 2021 16:34:38

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Stage 28, finishing the rear differential



Only three parts for this stage.



Drive shaft and two differential parts.





Take the end of the differential and push it onto the pin, then secure with a screw.



Screw the other half of the differential housing into place, and that completes this stage.

Stage 29, Rear upper suspension arms





It is worth noting that the rectangular frame is upside down in this shot, we are looking at the underside of it.



Place one end of the drive shaft into the differential assembly and the other into the gearbox. The driveshaft is symmetrical, so it doesn't matter which end goes in which.



With the chassis moves slightly out of the way, we start on the suspension. This time the rectangular frame is the correct way up.

Secure these two components at the front with one of the short pins provided, using the same technique as was used to secure the brake assembly to the drive shaft last stage.





Repeat for the other side.



Install this assembly on the four posts toward the rear of the chassis. This will now trap the differential, although it is still free to move within this box.

Again, the top frames are currently only secured at the front with the short pins, there is no pin in the rear of either frame.



Secure the top of the brake assembly to the top suspension frame with the long pin supplied in this stage.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#25 Posted : 16 January 2021 17:15:44

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Stage 30, left suspension parts.





A lot of pins this stage. Three short ones, a medium one, and a long one.





Take the suspension cylinder and install it on the rear of the frame from underneath. Once the pin is in place, you will NOT be able to rotate it past the suspension arm. Secure it in place with the MEDIUM pin. This will go through the first frame connection, suspension cylinder, second frame connection, rear of the upper suspension arm, and finally the last frame connection.



The suspension piston is then secured on the lower frame at the rear.



One of the small pins is used to secure the parts.



You are then told to place the spring on the piston, then offer it up to the cylinder, but I found that awkward.



Instead, I gently placed the chassis on its side, allowed the brake assembly to 'fall' away from the suspension unit, and placed the spring on the cylinder instead.



I then inserted the piston into the cylinder, and rotated the lower frame into place. The two locations where this connects to the chassis are secured with the final two small pins.





Once both locations are secure, the brake assembly is brought back and secures with the longest pin.





Stage 31, Rear right brake assembly

I've said it before, and now I'm saying it again! Laugh







And with that done, that just about wraps it up for this month. Looking forward to getting a rolling chassis, but realistically don't think that will be next month.

I'll leave you with the shots of the engine in the chassis, and see you next time.



Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#26 Posted : 23 February 2021 18:51:42

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And with my delivery arriving yesterday, I have got another update. Having finished the work, I have found this delivery to be very much a mixed bag.

It's good to have a rolling chassis after this month, but I had some problems during the build, and I feel there is a problem with the front suspension when built.



Anyway, starting this month we build the other rear suspension system.



Starting with a set of mirror image parts, we build the other side in the same manner as we have previously.



The suspension rod is secured to the lower frame with a pin.



The suspension cylinder is attached along with the upper arm with a long pin. once both parts are correctly installed with the pin through them, the knurled end of the pin is pushed home, securing the parts and allowing them to move.



The spring is then placed over the piston, and the piston inserted into the cylinder. The lower arm is then connected to the frame and pinned.



The lower arm is also pinned at the front, and all pins are pushed home.



The drive shaft is then pinned over the centre of the hub from last month, and the lower connection is also pinned.



The top arm is pinned into the arm on the hub, and that finished the rear suspension.

Note that the brake callipers face forward on the rear wheels. When we get to the front, the brake callipers face backward.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#27 Posted : 23 February 2021 19:05:17

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After the suspension we add a single piece in the next stage.



This piece requires reasonable accuracy in placement to get all the screws lining up correctly.



These are the first four screws to be installed, straight along the bottom.



Then these two hold the rear differential in place.



And the final two hold the piece onto the top of the read suspension cage.

The next four stages are all building the rear wheels. The majority of this is the same as the two front wheels we have previously constructed.



The only difference is that the rear wheels are wider than the front ones.



Which I thought was a nice detail.



Noting the slotted details in the rear of the wheel



and matching that up with the tabs on the brake disc



We can install the wheels, using the flanged screws provided. The magnetized hubs then just fit over the top.


Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#28 Posted : 23 February 2021 19:32:42

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With the rear suspension complete, we move to the front. This will be more complex than the rear due to the necessity of including the steering mechanism.





The first stage is using the pin to attach the suspension cylinder to the top part of the frame.





The suspension rod is then pinned to the middle of the lower suspension arm. The rod is the one without the other connection on the other end.



The other rod is then pinned like this. This rod forms the spindle that the front wheels will turn around.



The 'U' shaped upper arm is pinned either side of the suspension cylinder. It is advised that the cylinder is held above the arm whilst this is done to ease access to the pin locations.



The lower arm is then pinned in place, with the spring over the piston rod.



The wheel is then slid over the other rod. Note that the brake calliper faces the rear of the vehicle, and the component that will connect to the steering connects from the underside of the hub, facing forward.



The tricky bit is then holding the suspension in such a way that you can pin the top of the spindle through the top of the upper suspension arm. Once this has been accomplished, we repeat the same procedure for the other side.



With both sides finished, we now have a rolling chassis. However, this is where the first real problem reared its ugly head.



This is how the front suspension should look. Pick the vehicle up without supporting the front wheels, however, and the weight of the wheels pulls them down. They fall so far that the piston comes completely out of the cylinder. If this happens, the rod catches on the side of the cylinder, and the chassis does not sit down properly when you set it down. To get it to sit properly, you need to allow the wheel to fall slightly and push the rod back into the cylinder as you set it down.



This is how the suspension looks if the vehicle has been picked up without supporting the wheels, and has then been placed down again without sorting the suspension.

I presume this will be improved once the steering system has been installed - hopefully next month. I do have concerns over the strength this will need to be to take the strain of needing to hold the wheels up as well as move them from side to side.

Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#29 Posted : 23 February 2021 19:51:22

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The final stage this month adds the inner front wheel liners, and an air scoop underneath the back.



This was where I had the second problem. The first screw I put in did not need much force, but it twisted the connection point on the base plate clean off.

I glued both sides down, and then added the screws. I can't tell if it was the gluing or not, but the other screws seemed to take a lot more torque without damaging anything., but at least it was an easy fix.



Along with the two screws shown here, there is another location where these liners are screwed into the frame. This is fairly tricky to get to, but really increase the strength of these parts.



The rear intake is then installed here.



But at this point one of the connecting rods fell off my gearbox. Really wish I had glued these in now, it was hard getting it back in, and I was not in the best of moods after the stress of the front suspension and the wheel well liners - so was not at my most able to use fine motor skills required to replace this when the engine is completely installed.



So with the connecting rod back on the gearbox, the intake scoop is screwed in from underneath in these locations.



and from above in these locations. Note that there is a support on the intake that has to sit at this location on the gearbox.



And this is where we end up this month. A nice amount of progress, but marred by a few problems - the main one being the front suspension, which I hope improves next month.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Sticky Wickett
#30 Posted : 25 February 2021 21:47:58

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Looking really nice there Coser! Good job!Love

Regards,
Phil W.
Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
admin
#31 Posted : 26 February 2021 07:56:01
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Regarding the front and rear brake calipers, that is correct. My CSX 289 Cobra is the same. There is more braking force exerted on the down, as opposed to the up on the rotation. The 427 is a heavy, heavy beast in the front end, and without increased down force on braking, they’d spin out.

Cheers,

Mark
Mark Adams
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