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Soleil Royal from the dentist Options
dantist 905
#1 Posted : 28 October 2020 16:27:09

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Location: Russia, Usolye-Sibirskoe city, Irkutsk region lake Baikal
Good afternoon, colleagues. I also decided to start building a ship. This is my second experience in building such types of ships (from Deagostini) Lord of the seas. Got to the rough planking, got stuck on the gun ports. I don't have any difficulties, I just don't have enough time for objective reasons. I will not subscribe, I will buy through retail or via the Internet on the Deagostini website. Some rooms are not useful to me is the roughing and finishing plating, the wood will acquire himself. Building the ship's hull is similar to the Master, so I will not build it according to the instructions. The thickness of the plywood does not suit me, so I have other printsypy: 1. strengthening the keel frame, 2. strengthening the frames, 3. fixing the ship on the keel blocks using tubes for illumination, 4. manufacturing all decks. 5. interior deck lighting.

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dantist 905
#2 Posted : 28 October 2020 17:49:20

Rank: Beginner Level 1

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Joined: 09/09/2020
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Location: Russia, Usolye-Sibirskoe city, Irkutsk region lake Baikal
And so a little continued dry Assembly of the ship's hull. I want to note that the laser cutting is so free that it is impossible to assemble the skeleton of the ship's hull on a dry surface. The gap between the parts is approximately 0.5 mm. Well, for example, I could not properly try on the side stringers, everything is so free, as long as you try on the left, the right falls and Vice versa. I got out of the position I put a 0.5 mm thick rail on the upper edge of the side stringer (left from the Lord of the seas) and as a result, the side stringers of that one were put on the frames 👍 , just like I did with the details of the nasal septum. And so until 11 numbers all collected, I will continue in the same spirit. As soon as I fully assemble the skeleton of the ship's hull, I will start drilling two holes in the keel frame for the keel block. Only then, I will glue the frames.
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delboy271155
#3 Posted : 28 October 2020 19:38:42

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Hi Dantist, BigGrin

Welcome to the forum.Cool Cool

I wish you luck with your build and congrats on your "Blue" medal for starting a diary. (Will appear shortly).


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






birdaj2
#4 Posted : 28 October 2020 20:13:07

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Really nice to see a new forum member and i am looking forward to seeing your build take shape.

Its also lovely to see that you have a cat friend that helps you when you are building.

Best wishes with your build.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar
Markwarren
#5 Posted : 29 October 2020 10:38:33

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Hi Dantist,

Welcome to the forum, nice to see you’ve got off to a great start.ThumpUp

Mark
dantist 905
#6 Posted : 31 October 2020 17:39:50

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Location: Russia, Usolye-Sibirskoe city, Irkutsk region lake Baikal
Prepared the keel frame for mounting, made a working stand.
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magpie1832
#7 Posted : 31 October 2020 17:43:47

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Welcome to the Forum Dantist.
Great choice. I enjoyed building the kit for the forum. It builds into a large stunning model.
Good luck with your build

Chris
On the bench

1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.




pagetirado
#8 Posted : 14 January 2021 04:28:09

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Congrats!
admin
#9 Posted : 14 January 2021 08:22:30
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Welcome in! A quick note; if you size your pictures to 600x450, they’ll appear in your post, as opposed to viewers needing to download them to view.

Stay well!

Mark
Mark Adams
dantist 905
#10 Posted : 16 January 2021 08:43:31

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Location: Russia, Usolye-Sibirskoe city, Irkutsk region lake Baikal
Soleil Royale by Deagostini (version 2.0)
The rough skin of the body went on the left side to the top. I form the gun ports of the oper-deck and the internal rough skin of the bulwark. Basswood rail 2mm x 5mm. The task of this stage of construction is to get the correct contours of the model body, give it the necessary shape. Sufficient thickness, for example, of the bulwark in two boards will allow for the processing of the body with sandpaper to avoid thinning of the board and create a flat surface for finishing the skin.
https://youtu.be/tfFYWu6fS5c
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Gandale
#11 Posted : 16 January 2021 23:54:04

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Coming along nicely.... look forward to seeing how she looks when the sanding phase is complete.... Keep the pics coming....Cool Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Markwarren
#12 Posted : 17 January 2021 10:36:47

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Looking very nice.Love

Mark
dantist 905
#13 Posted : 21 January 2021 04:47:39

Rank: Beginner Level 1

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Location: Russia, Usolye-Sibirskoe city, Irkutsk region lake Baikal
Colleagues hello, thank you for evaluating my work. This is my first experience, so I try my best!!!
My imagination and great desire to bring the ship SOLEIL Royal to the state of a decent ship led me to the idea of making the interior lighting of the decks. Even at the stage of assembling the ship's hull by strengthening the keel frame at two points, I drilled through holes and screwed in the furniture nuts in order to screw in the steel tubes by means of the M 6 thread. They will serve the first:  rigid attachment of the ship to the keel blocks. 

second, wires will run inside the tube to illuminate the interior decks and cabins. 

Since Deagostini does not offer us the presence of such decks as the gon-deck and mid-deck (the first and second artillery decks of the ship), that is, a completely fake ship turns out, I myself made the gon-deck, made the deck flooring from pear slats, made the caulking, nagels and rust bars. And in order for this to be seen through the gun ports, you need full-fledged lighting with an imitation of lanterns, of course. Therefore, the overlap of these two decks was made of plywood with a thickness of 1 mm, where the entire electronic circuit for lighting the decks will be placed. 

Namely, from the bow to the stern on both sides will pass the tires "-" and " + " with a copper wire of 0.8 mm. A yellow LED light source with a lens diameter of 3 mm GNL - 3014UYC will be soldered to them. As a result, I use 50 LEDs on the deck of the gon-deck, 40 LEDs on the deck of the midship deck, a total of 90 pcs. Voltage ⚡ I will use 12V. This is the most optimal and most importantly safe for the operation of LEDs. 

Given such a large number of LEDs, I decided to use a parallel connection of all the LEDs. Because with a serial connection of 90 LEDs, the voltage of 12 V would not be enough. With a parallel connection, creating a chain of LEDs is simple and convenient, anode to anode, cathode to cathode that's why I have a bus running along the entire ship. So I'm missing any wires! The main thing in this case is still to observe the polarity and then everything will be fine, and everything will glow. But everything will be in vain if we make just such a chain of LEDs. EVERYTHING WILL BURN INSTANTLY. If you do not observe one point. The differential resistance of the open LED is excessively small, which provokes a short circuit. As a result, all the LEDs in the circuit when connected in parallel will flash once and go out forever. To limit the LED from a sharp increase in current, you will need a resistor. My experiment on the video easily explains this. But if you pass the voltage of one or two such batteries through this chain of LEDs, nothing will happen to them (LEDs). Even if you do not observe the polarity, it simply will not burn. The fact is that the current in the circuit through the battery is limited by the internal resistance of the battery. Their POWER will not be enough to harm the LED. 

Again, back to the resistor. If we save a little money and our labor and connect a chain of LEDs in series with one resistor, such a circuit will also not work, since each individual LED has a different differential (internal) resistance and one resistor only limits the total current of the circuit, which then distributes throughout the chain. Therefore, according to Ohm's law, the LED with the lowest internal resistance will receive the largest portion of current, which will be greater than the nominal value, which will accelerate its destruction of the crystal and failure. And the remaining LEDs in their work distributes the current of the burned-out, which will also lead to a sharp loss of brightness. Therefore, the only sure way to buy 90 resistors and connect them in series to each LED. This connection will allow you to equalize the currents in each individual LED, without allowing them to exceed the operating value. 

Again, a parallel connection is also not super. Yes, the advantages are that you can use a large number of LEDs, if one burns out, the entire chain will work, which is impossible with a serial connection. Well, the disadvantages or ну well, you need a lot of resistors ( 🤗 ), and also ➖ when one LED burns, the load increases on the others. 

There is another optimal connection method that is combined that is, mixed and serial and parallel method in the same chain. But this method does not suit me, then I will have to place the LEDs according to a special scheme and then there will be a lot of wires. The overall result is this when creating the lighting of the ship. It is important to be able to correctly assemble the circuit, select the power source, correctly calculate the nominal value of the resistor and, accordingly, the required number of LEDs. And the most important thing is that the circuit works reliably and for a long time in the ship, the connection of LEDs without a current-limiting resistor is unacceptable!!! изв Once again, please apologize for the translation . I hope you got my point!
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dantist 905
#14 Posted : 21 January 2021 05:08:16

Rank: Beginner Level 1

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Joined: 09/09/2020
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Location: Russia, Usolye-Sibirskoe city, Irkutsk region lake Baikal
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Gandale
#15 Posted : 23 January 2021 00:03:06

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
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Very nice work indeed... love the effect your lighting gives, looks fab.....
Look forward to seeing more of your work....Drool Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
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