Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

A better way to do copper tiling Options
darylmros
#1 Posted : 30 November 2020 05:18:54

Rank: Newbie

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/01/2018
Posts: 4
Points: 12
Location: Long Island, NY
This isn't the first time I've used copper on a ship model. My first was the Corel Cutty Sark, so I've gotten some good (and bad) experience I would like to share. I see I'm ranked as a "newbie," which isn't accurate, I've been building models for almost 50 years, and model ships for almost 30.

1. Don't use CA glue. Between that and the accelerator, you will feel miserable unless you can work outside or with. respirator the entire time.

2. Use Titebond II, which is available almost anywhere. It's formulated to bond wood with metal, and works very well with the Model Space copper tiles. I put a glob on cardboard, then spread it with a small plastic spatula. Microbrushes are good for small areas as well. It has a fairly fast tack, so "make haste slowly,"

3. To apply the tiles, I find a simple X-Acto knife with no. 11 blade works perfectly. Sometimes a small pair of tweezers helps with small shaped parts of tile.

4. When you need to cut the tiles, don't bother using the method Model Space recommends: Curved blade on a ceramic tile. Simply mark with pencil where you want to cut (it might rub off from hand oils, no worries), and then simply cut with scissors. Small surgical scissors will bo the job perfectly.

5. When you cut with scissors, you might curl the tile. Simply place it on the ceramic tile you don't need to cut on (but you need a flat hard surface) and press the tile with the face of a small metal ruler.

6. If Titebond squeezes out, don't wipe it off, let it set into a gel (this only takes a few minutes) and then use your knife to gently scrape the glue off.
z8000783
#2 Posted : 30 November 2020 07:04:09

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,714
Points: 5,204
Location: London & Greece

Hi Darylmros (??? Do you have a name?)

Welcome to the group.

Nice post, Do you place the tile as soon as you lay the glue down?

admin
#3 Posted : 30 November 2020 07:10:20
Rank: Administration


Groups: Administrator, Administrators

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 1,743
Points: 5,330
Location: Nevada, US
Hi!

The “Newbie” is an indication of how long you have been on the boards, certainly NOT your, or anyone elses experience level. But, that brings up a good point, that it is a somewhat offensive appellate.

Thank you very much for the tips! It would be awesome if you could perhaps put a small tutorial. PM me, if you are interested.

Cheers,

Mark

“Never let the future disturb you. You will meet it, if you have to, with the same weapons of reason which today arm you against the present.”

Marcus Aurelius
birdaj2
#4 Posted : 30 November 2020 12:14:20

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 31/05/2010
Posts: 5,636
Points: 16,879
Location: Wiltshire
darylmros wrote:
This isn't the first time I've used copper on a ship model. My first was the Corel Cutty Sark, so I've gotten some good (and bad) experience I would like to share. I see I'm ranked as a "newbie," which isn't accurate, I've been building models for almost 50 years, and model ships for almost 30.

1. Don't use CA glue. Between that and the accelerator, you will feel miserable unless you can work outside or with. respirator the entire time.

2. Use Titebond II, which is available almost anywhere. It's formulated to bond wood with metal, and works very well with the Model Space copper tiles. I put a glob on cardboard, then spread it with a small plastic spatula. Microbrushes are good for small areas as well. It has a fairly fast tack, so "make haste slowly,"

3. To apply the tiles, I find a simple X-Acto knife with no. 11 blade works perfectly. Sometimes a small pair of tweezers helps with small shaped parts of tile.

4. When you need to cut the tiles, don't bother using the method Model Space recommends: Curved blade on a ceramic tile. Simply mark with pencil where you want to cut (it might rub off from hand oils, no worries), and then simply cut with scissors. Small surgical scissors will bo the job perfectly.

5. When you cut with scissors, you might curl the tile. Simply place it on the ceramic tile you don't need to cut on (but you need a flat hard surface) and press the tile with the face of a small metal ruler.

6. If Titebond squeezes out, don't wipe it off, let it set into a gel (this only takes a few minutes) and then use your knife to gently scrape the glue off.


Many thanks for posting this.

I “hate” superglue so your suggestion of using titebond ii is very useful as i had never even thought if using this.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)all parts now complete just needs building.
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
darylmros
#5 Posted : 30 November 2020 15:29:59

Rank: Newbie

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/01/2018
Posts: 4
Points: 12
Location: Long Island, NY
My name is Daryl, and thank you for the kind words

A thin film is all you need, it's going to keep it's tack for maybe 10 minutes at most, I usually "trowel" on a small bead and spread it linearly, so you can apply maybe 6 or 7 tiles one after the other, then apply more glue. If you use a bit too much, in a few minutes you can scrape it off. If some stains the tiles, it almost doesn't matter, given the scale of the model.

I learned about Titebond II's formulation for metal to wood from a Franklin engineer. Franklin makes Titebond, as well as epoxies, CAs and other glues. I make a lot of furniture, and inlay lots of materials. For most, various epoxies are needed, but or string inlay, where it's easier to inject the glue, where you are using something like silver wire, a simple glue injector with some Titebond II is easier than trying to put epoxy into an injector.
z8000783
#6 Posted : 30 November 2020 15:39:23

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,714
Points: 5,204
Location: London & Greece
darylmros
#7 Posted : 30 November 2020 15:46:08

Rank: Newbie

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/01/2018
Posts: 4
Points: 12
Location: Long Island, NY
Yes, that's the product. The same engineer told me that regular Titebond (both brown and clear) and Titebond III won't work as well. I tested Titebond II first, I didn't bother testing the others,
goddo
#8 Posted : 30 November 2020 16:07:36

Rank: Vice-Master
Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 21/04/2011
Posts: 765
Points: 2,291
Location: Buckinghamshire
Daryl, thank you for the interesting post.
It was the thought of using CA glue for extended periods of time that put me off the idea of tiling my HMS Victory
but using an alternative adhesive never occurred to me at the time (or a few others, judging by the comments).
This means that I am sitting with a bag of unused copper tiles, but maybe on the next build I will try your method.
It certainly sounds more "user friendly" that CA glues.
Chris
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.171 seconds.
DeAgostini