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Who ya Gonna Call? Building Ecto-1 Options
Coser
#81 Posted : 05 September 2020 12:13:16

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Stage 40.



We start on the upper dash this stage.



The Ammeter is placed into the hole uppermost on the left side of the instrument hole. It is a keyed hole, so was relatively easy to get this in the correct orientation. It is then screwed in from the back.



The clock is then screwed in to the hole on the opposite side of the instrument hole.





The spotlight control is just pushed into a hole. This is a tight enough fit that it does not require glue, and I left it unglued as I might want to briefly remove it as I do more work on the dash.



The last step for this stage is to push this handle into place in front of where the instruments will be.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
tigerace
#82 Posted : 05 September 2020 13:09:04

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Looks so cool BigGrin no issue with getting the parts from eaglemoss this time Confused like the deloreanCursing , be quite a show stopper when complete coserDrool Drool


Regards PhilCool
COMING SOON =1/9 Italeri Kettankrad and BMW R-75 Combination ON THE GO=1/35 Italeri S-38 Schnellboot, refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models

So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!


Coser
#83 Posted : 05 September 2020 13:23:44

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Stage 41



Once again, we are working on the upper dash.



The three components for the radio. The long one fits in a recess on the top of the front face, the shorter one goes underneath.





And this is then screwed to the top of the dash from underneath. Once again, I found this a little awkward, ending up running one of the screws through the hole and aligning the correct hole and start that screw, then align the peg with its hole. This ensures the other screw is aligned and it goes in easily.





These two parts form the instrument cluster. The cluster will be lit, and the front piece is crisply detailed.



They are screwed in from the back.





The radio/cassette is now installed in this detail piece, screwed into place from the back.





The detail piece gets screwed into the upper dash, also from the back.



We are also using all the other switches and the LED strip from last issue, the first stage in this process is to fit this silver knob into the dash from behind. It is keyed, but was also awkward to fit so that it fit correctly. My part has a small protrusion on each side of the slot in the knob, but a few seconds work with my scalpel sorted that out no problem.



The switch with the grey wires is installed behind this switch. Installing these switches are a real hassle. You need to hold the switch with one hand, put the plastic clamp piece in place with the other, and screw the clamp to the rear of the dash with the third. Oh. Wait, I see a problem here!

I ended up using a gel superglue to stick the clamp to the back of the switch, just so much that it stays where I want it, but allowing enough movement to get it into the correct position where I could then screw it in just holding the wire in one hand and having a screw on a magnetic screwdriver in the other.



This insert is placed in the recess on the other side. It does not protrude as much as the previous insert, being mainly flat, but will still act as a switch.



Using the previous procedure, I installed the switch with the green and blue wires.



The next switch is the twin green wired one, similar to the previous switches except there is no silver outer piece now. The black rod that is part of the switch just protrudes through the dash.





Same thing with the twin blue wired switch and the twin white wired switch. The twin white wired switch is slightly easier as it is a different orientation than the others.

I checked the function of all the switches, making sure I could hear each switch click as I pushed it, and that's this stage finished.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Markwarren
#84 Posted : 05 September 2020 14:24:01

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Coming on very nicely.Love Cool

Mark
Coser
#85 Posted : 05 September 2020 14:25:51

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Stage 42



Firstly, the two parts of the Gentec antenna are screwed together.



Which is then screwed to the mount from underneath.



Which is then screwed to the upper dash. Initially I was concerned that the screw faced into the crew compartment, but now realise that the other side is now facing out the windshield.



We now take this chromes frame and cut the switches off for installation into the switchbox. This was another frustration. I'm a big guy, and although my fingers are certainly not 'pork sausages', they are not chopsticks either. I could not hold these switches and get them into position without using some fairly large tweezers to push them in, twist them to the correct angle, the push them home.

At one point a switch pinged out of the tweezers. Cue 20 minutes of looking on the floor, gently running my hand over the surface, before I found it again. Why they didn't supply a couple of extras on the frame beggars belief, the extra plastic used would have cost fractions of a penny, and would have saved a load of anguish and hassle. Angry



With the eight switches finally installed in the frame, and a small drop of superglue securing each at the back.



This unit is then secured to the underside of the dash, and again I had problems. Angry The screws just pulled straight through. Although I tried to use a solvent glue to attach these two parts, the curve seemed to prevent this. I ended up using both the solvent glue and putting a bit of superglue on the head of the screws.



The fuel gauge is then screwed to the underside with two screws, no problems with anything here or for the rest of this issue. I do think that whoever designed this part, however, could have had it so that there is some fuel in the tank - looks like she's been sucking fumes for a couple of miles! Flapper



The battery indicator is then added, just the single screw this time.



The Emergency Brake is then screwed in at the back. This is not a switched unit, so does not have any movement and is just screwed to the lower dash panel.



The final step is to connect the lower and upper sections of the dash. Ensure that you don't trap any of the wires at this point. I use some masking tape to tape the wires down and out of the way.



And here are the locations of the five switches. I like the fact that two of them are hidden in details in the instrument surround and another two are the knobs on the radio/cassette.

And although this is not in the instructions, I then taped the dash into the car, added the indicator stalks and steering wheel (Just pushed onto the steering column) and took a picture, then reverting to where we should be.


Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#86 Posted : 28 September 2020 13:26:06

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OK, I'm still waiting for my next delivery, but have a modification that I have received and installed in the mean time.



The front strobe and side light kit from Mr Fusion Designs. I also picked up the replacement reflectors for the side lights to save me the hassle of drilling the supplied parts.



There's a fair bit of electronics to this mod, but thankfully no electronic work is required for installation. All the control system is already complete and all you have to do is add power. To this end there is a PP9 (9V) battery connection, a power extension lead, and a connector that fits the EM battery pack all supplied.



The first stage is to remove the section of the grill with the strobes supplied by EM from the rest of the grill. You will then need to remove the strobes from this section and dismantle them. I did this one side at a time to remove any possibility of getting parts mixed up.



Having removed the strobe from the grill component, I used the blade of my scalpel to gently ease the cover off the mount, and then gently pressed down on the supplied 'bulb' to remove it ready for replacement.



With the new, working strobe bulb in place, you will need to remove a small section of the grill, as shown below.



This is necessary so that the strobe mounts once again fit flush on the grill section. The strobe mount covers all of this area, once it is re-fitted, and the section is at the rear of the component and most likely hidden anyway.



I found that it was necessary to use a little superglue to keep the lights in the correct place in the mount, but it is easy to apply a little with a cocktail stick to the sides of the wires and glue them to the edges of the slot I had cut. This prevented the bulbs dropping down in the mounts.



With both sides installed, I ran the wires through the grill at a point just under the main central beam, in positions along its length that corresponded with the locations of the lights, as shown. The section was then screwed back into place in the grill.

Time to turn my attention to the side lights. It was at this point that I belatedly decided to check the function of the set. I wired it up to the installed battery pack, bought new batteries, ensured the battery pack switch was on, turned on the mod lights and ....... nothing. I realised that I should have tested this first, as if anything was wrong with the mod, I'd have a sticky situation explaining why I couldn't send the strobe lights back.

However, as there is a 9V battery connector supplied, I thought at least I should check that first and eliminate the EM battery pack as the problem. I went out and bought a battery, and bulbs lit up, strobes strobed, and all was right with the world. This does mean that I will need to get around to checking if there is a problem in the EM wiring - if I can see the problem, I can generally solder any connection that has broken. If I can't see the problem, I'll just call and get a replacement.

So with that out of the way, I looked at the replacement reflectors. It was here I had another disappointment.



The colour looked like a grey, and although had obviously been given a varnish, it had some obvious defects. Well, I know just the product to deal with that.



As you can see above, the difference when installed makes the replacement look almost white. This is not an effect I wanted when the lights were off, which would be most of the time after all.

So out came the foam sanding sheets I have, and I started to smooth out the paint finish as suppled. As I was doing this, and as I got deeper into the paint, I noticed some regular lines appearing through the paint. As this happened before I had got the smooth surface I needed prior to paint, I had no option to go on - but my idea of a quick sand to smooth it off was now out of the window. These are now obviously FDM 3D printed parts, the lines being the areas where the filament doesn't make a smooth surface as the layers are placed on top of each other. I now had to sand the raised, central, area of each layer to get a totally smooth surface so that it wouldn't show in the chrome.

Cue putting on some Amazon Prime, sitting back, and gently twisting a foam sanding sheet until I had gone through all the paint and the inside of the reflector was smooth.

Several days later.

I finished the left hand side pair of reflectors. Gave them 3-4 very light coats of Alclad Gloss Black Base, drying with a hairdryer between coats. The Molotow Liquid Chrome I use needs to go on fairly heavily so that the surface of the paint can produce enough surface tension to pull it flat to the surface and give the best results. This is easy to see when airbrushing as the gloss goes up dramatically at this point. I let that dry naturally for a day before giving is a final coat of Alclad clear gloss lacquer for protection.



As you can see, the difference is startling. The left is the colour of one replacement - admittedly one I had already started sanding - and the one on the right is one I have sanded and re-painted myself.

So, with all the reflectors now looking chrome, all the lights have been installed.



And wouldn't you know it, I managed to take this picture between the strobe flashes! The strobes are a nice cold white, with the side lights being this yellow, warm white. The contrast between them looks very effective.



The small box with the logo on it is the circuitry for the whole rig, and it does a lot. You can carefully remove the logo sticker, unscrew the lid, and then you get access to what's inside. There are only 2 items that are of any note to me, a small white button and a small dial. The dial is how you can change the speed at which the lamps flash. Although I turned mine down slightly, that is only personal preference - and if I turned it down any more, it went noticeably too slow. So this was set up almost perfectly from the start.

The small button is more interesting. The unit came set up so that the side lights stay on, but the strobes flash in a right/left double flash pattern. As you press this innocuous white button it causes the light pattern to change, primarily including the side lights in the pattern, and then changing the strobe pattern. There must be over a dozen different strobe patterns built in to this little unit, some where the strobe and side lights on each side flash in unison, others where it follows a pattern (Left side lights, right strobe, left strobe, right side lights for example). I returned mine to the side lights being constantly on, reduced the speed slightly, then buttoned it all up again.

I love the detail this adds to my model, and thoroughly recommend it to anyone working on this build. The only decision you will have any trouble over will be whether you get the replacement reflectors and do the work on them, or if you want to drill out the already supplied ones.

Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#87 Posted : 08 October 2020 22:16:16

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Issue 13, stages 43 to 46.

This issue seems a little light to me, but we are starting on the interior this month, so it seems like we are making decent progress all the same.

Stage 43, Dash sides.



for this stage, we need the dashboard from previous issues, and the parts supplied. There are only four new parts - the two sides and two speakers - but this finishes off the dash and allows it to stand up on its own.



Each part is moulded with the side marked on it, and the speaker grills also have a peg to ensure correct orientation within the sides.



Place the two speakers in their respective side panels, they will look like this with the corner with the diagonal detailing copying the angle in the side panel.



Secure them with two screws each from the back of the side panel.







The two sides are then attached to the dash. The angled surface faces forward, and there is a pin and two screws each side to ensure that the panels are in the correct position. The dash will now stand up correctly on its own.

This completes stage 43.



Stage 44, interior floor.

Practically nothing to do this stage, but that is understandable with the inclusion of the front of the interior.





The small, silver component is the headlight dimmer footswitch, and will get pushed into a hole in the front of the floor.

I found this rather difficult at first. I noticed there was a rather large mould line that ran up one side of the pin, and back down the other. I therefore took my scalpel to the line so as to bring the diameter of the pin back to where it should have been. Whilst I was doing this, I removed the chrome from the pin, and added a drop of oil into the hole.

Having done all this, the switch went snuggly into the hole. I may give it a while and then add a drop of thick superglue at the back as insurance, but it's probably not necessary even after the work I did to it.



The stage also includes the accelerator pedal, but that is not used in this stage.



Stage 45, 'carpets' and centre speakers.



Although the magazine says it's the carpeting, they are rubber mats. I believe this is accurate, and it fits the period and the floor equipment.

Firstly, though, we fit the centre speakers.



This part is screwed in from underneath the transmission tunnel hump.



The included double sided tape is placed on the floor in these positions. This should ensure that the edges of the mats are flat and secure.

I pressed the tapes down fairly hard to ensure they are stuck to the plastic well. Once they had five to ten minutes to get a good grip, I gently lifted off the other strips and placed the mat on top. With the mat in the correct place, I pressed the mat firmly into the adhesive. To ensure that nothing got onto the adhesive, I did each side separately and installed the mat as soon as possible after lifting the tapes off the adhesive.



As the driver's (Left) side has the cut-outs for the dimmer switch and accelerator, I did the passenger (Right) side first to get used to how hard the adhesive will 'grab' the part as it goes down.

There is enough grab that I am sure it will stay in place once installed, but providing you are careful, you can re-position the mat as long as it is not fully down when you try and remove them. I had to re-position my driver side mat a couple of times but, as I had only lightly placed it on the adhesive and was working from the corner between the floor and front wall, it wasn't hard to do.



Both mats in place. I am happy with the placement, giving a reasonable amount of room around the dimmer switch, but think the area around the accelerator pedal could have been better. (My positioning, not due to the part.)



The accelerator pedal from stage 44 is then placed in position and once again screwed in from underneath. It is worth mentioning again that this is a static unit and not going to be used as a switch.



Stage 46, front seat base and back supports.



As you can probably see in the picture, my base is noticeably curved. I am not bothered as it will probably straighten up as other parts are added to it.



Take one of the back supports and place it on the base like this, with the hump in the base toward you.



Place one of the brackets over the top like this.



And then screw it down.





The support can now fold forward, and will hold themselves in both the upright and forward positions.



Repeat for the other three supports, and that's it for this month. Looking forward to next month and continuing the interior.

Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
delboy271155
#88 Posted : 08 October 2020 22:48:52

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Hi Coser, BigGrin

Good to see what`s occurring with this and it looks good.

Cool Cool Cool

Also gives me the reminder that my next parts will be here in about a week.LOL


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






mogwai
#89 Posted : 09 October 2020 11:46:35

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Hi looks good nice to see what's coming up next .cheers mick.BigGrin
Builds hms victory, suzuki gsx 1300 R hayabusa, honda C B 750, lamborghini countach L P 500 S, tamiya 1/16 rc full option tiger 1 tank,
built, Mclaren M P 4 - 23. Occre london tram,
Stash.airfix 1/24 mosquito. Diag Virginia schooner, tamiya 1/6 honda 750, tamiya 1/35 famo, tamiya 1/35 flak 88.
Markwarren
#90 Posted : 09 October 2020 16:48:19

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Looking good, going to be quite a sizeable model when complete.

Mark
Coser
#91 Posted : 10 October 2020 20:43:53

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Yes Mark.

31.5 inches (Shade over two and a half feet) long, around 10" wide, and taller than it is wide. The only other build I can think of off the top of my head, and one I really wish would come out, would be the Barris Batmobile from the '66 TV show with Adam West and Burt Ward. Although the Tumbler would be a lot taller than that, I don't believe it would be quite as long.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#92 Posted : 02 November 2020 06:18:09

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And just found out that Mikelanemods.com has up for pre-order a set of proper carpets for this build. I have ordered a set, and they should be delivered in a month according to the website.

So now I am going to remove the supplied rubber mats, clean off the remains of the double sided tape, and wait for them to arrive.

He also has some more great mods for the BTTF Delorean, but I'll put those in the relevant thread.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#93 Posted : 07 November 2020 02:36:38

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I don't know how long I'm going to have to wait for the next set of parts for this, had an e-mail saying my payment had been refused. Called them and they say it's a problem with their system. They are aware that I paid the first year up-front, and I shouldn't have to pay again until the delivery after the one I am waiting on, but until they get it sorted out, I'm going to have to wait, apparently.

In the mean time, I bought a set of stickers from Mr Fusion Designs which should add more detail to the engine bay.



Personally, I would have preferred doing without the movie poster, Viggo, the blueprint, etc. and had a smaller sheet with just the stuff for the engine bay on it. Could have been cut down to a quarter of the size for a third of the cost.

However, having got them, on they go. None of them are actually decals, despite what it says in the description on the website and the sheet itself, they are all stickers. I don't mind that for the V.I.N. plate, which would have been a separate metal plate either screwed or rivetted onto the frame, but some might look a little thick.

Before removing the stickers from their backing sheet, I wiped the area the sticker would go with a cotton bud to remove any dust or other contaminants that might have effected the adhesion.



I looked at the battery and frame first.



Battery sticker (7) showing the manufacturer and some information goes on the front of the battery.



And what would be called the V.I.N. plate (1) goes on top of the crossmember here.



I then worked on the alternator/generator. There is a circular sticker (9) that goes around the single connection, but it is easy enough to just tease the connector off, place the sicker and press it down, then replace the connector. The oval sticker (10) goes between that and the bracket. I placed it so the writing looks like it can be read from the front of the engine.



I then moved on to the power steering reservoir.



To which I added the number 3 sticker. Although this sticker is curved, the pictures on the website make it look like it's placed around the circumference of the reservoir. The shape of the sticker, however, looks odd in this location and looks like it fits better on the front, flat face. I may have to re-visit this after seeing if I can find some better reference.



Although looking at it again, there is not enough room for it to go on the front, so it just doesn't seem to have been cut with the correct curve to fit correctly.



I then moved to the oil filter.



This gets the blue circular sticker (8) attached around the top. I took the orientation as best I could from the few pictures on the website.



I then moved on to the air filter, which I had painted part of earlier. This gets two stickers, (5) on the top, and (4) opposite the intake.





This leaves only the radiator cap and the rear firewall to deal with.



The radiator cap gets the two semi-circular stickers that form (11). Here it's a shame I didn't think to put some low tack tape over the pair of them to keep them aligned as I put them on. They are not perfectly on there, but it's going to do.



The firewall actually has three stickers, the pair marked (6) go to the left when looking from the front of the engine, and (2) goes in the centre.



The yellow sticker out of the (6) pair goes on the left of the part in this picture, with the white one going on the sloped side to the right.



Although the white sticker looks off in this picture, it's not that far off and only looks bad due to the slope it's on.

I don't have a picture of the (2) sticker currently, as I ended up removing the firewall entirely after this. I have had to remove my steering column as it's bent since I originally installed it. I'll have to contact CS by e-mail and request a replacement stage. It's tight, but I have been able to remove the bent one without having to entirely remove the engine, so at least I know I won't be damaging the other parts of the steering.

Edit:

I have been told that pack 2 of my Cobra build will be here later today, so I should have that up by Monday. Pack 2 finishes the engine and exhaust manifolds.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#94 Posted : 25 November 2020 15:19:52

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And I'm getting fed up with this.

I started out pretty close to the same stage that the YouTube channel "World of Wayne" was at. He's now on stage 57 in his videos. I had an e-mail back on the 28th October saying there had been a problem with my payment. The problem is their end, I paid for the first year up front and have only had the first 11 deliveries so far.

Apparently their system cannot cope with annual payments. There have now been two occasions where it has tried to take a payment when one is not due, and when they cancel the payment it sends out the e-mail.

I had previously been told that my delivery was due to be shipped back on the 17th November, but still had not received a shipment notification this morning. Now I get told that my account has had the first part of the fix applied, so my delivery should be on the way by the end of next week - so by 4th December.

My next annual payment is due on 11th December, and I believe that means that my first delivery from that payment should be dispatched around the 18th.

I am tired of this. I will be taking a serious look at whether I continue this iconic build - I may well send an enquiry to Agora and see if they would consider duplicating this model as they have done with Hachettes T-800 and Bismark models (Or is it just Hachette they are doing this with). I have a nasty feeling they are only working with Hachette on this, and therefore I will be forced to either continue the Ecto or bin the work I have put in so far.

My feelings are obviously worse because of the pandemic and the current lockdown, but I doubt I would be OK with this even if those were not a factor.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
darbyvet
#95 Posted : 25 November 2020 15:55:51

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I hear you bro. I am almost a year behind with my DeLorean.To be fair though this year has been so messed up. I dont start my builds usually until I have all of the parts.I find it less frustrating that way because I am not staring at a half finished model waiting on parts.

Carl
Coser
#96 Posted : 29 November 2020 04:08:51

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Praise be. Have had my dispatch notification. The next stage, finishing the front seat and adding the rear deck, is on its way. "World of Wayne" painted his rear deck, and I may end up doing a similar thing to mine. I wish I had some better pictures because most of the time you just don't see the interior of this classic vehicle.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
delboy271155
#97 Posted : 29 November 2020 16:11:15

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Coser wrote:
Praise be. Have had my dispatch notification. The next stage, finishing the front seat and adding the rear deck, is on its way. "World of Wayne" painted his rear deck, and I may end up doing a similar thing to mine. I wish I had some better pictures because most of the time you just don't see the interior of this classic vehicle.


Good to hear you are sorted to carry on with this build.ThumpUp ThumpUp

As for the rear deck, I don`t think you will see much of it anyway. I`ve looked at the amount of fixing points drilled in it and there is loads of stuff to put in there.

Hope to see more of your build soon now the parts flow has been restored.


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Coser
#98 Posted : 29 November 2020 18:33:30

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God, these people couldn't find their backsides with both hands and an ass detector!

Had another "We've had a problem with your payment" e-mails today. This time though it had a link to their payment gateway.

Which shows not only that I pay monthly - despite their assertion that the problems have been created because I paid yearly and their system was not coping with that - but that all payments have gone through and on time.

My payment for delivery 11 (stages 43-46) was taken on 02/10/20, and the payment for delivery 12 (stages 47-50 plus the base) was successfully taken on 27/11/20. So despite having all payments taken correctly, they have delayed my 12th delivery for almost a month.

I will be calling them again, which will once again cost me for correcting their mistake, and asking them to expedite another delivery to get me caught up to where I should be.

EDIT:

If it wasn't for my love of the subject matter and the face that we are so far into this build already, I would be calling to cancel. I just hope that Agora take up some of my other favourite builds (K.I.T.T. from Knight Rider, Barris Batmobile, etc.).
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#99 Posted : 04 December 2020 21:42:17

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So here we go again.

I have had it confirmed that my latest delivery was on the way, and that the payment had gone through. If there are any more e-mails before the 18th (My next payment date) then I should ignore them. The very next day I got another e-mail saying there had been trouble with my payment. As I am actually an annual subscriber, the amounts listed on their payment gateway are actually the amounts taken from my payment. However, this also means that they can't take a payment for a single month and get me caught up with where I should be, so I am now permanently one month behind where I was when I started. As long as I keep getting a monthly delivery from now on, I'm not that fussed.

However, I have now received both my base - it's huge! - and the next delivery (Issue 14), so here it is.



Stage 47



In this stage we work on the base of the front bench seat.



The hard plastic part (lower one in the picture) is inserted into the flexible seat cover, trapping the foam insert in between them. Note that there is a cut-out in each to go over the transmission tunnel. Ensure that these are both on the same face of the seat.



Ensure the tabs on the flexible seat cover are not bent under the hard base and fit over the screw locations.



Fasten each tab to the hard plastic with a flanged screw.



This is now how the seat base looks like from above.



Take the seat base from last month with the back supports on it, and the two rails supplied with this stage. These rails are identical, so it does not matter which goes on the left or right,



There is a location pin on each rail, and they will only go one way round (Front to back) and are secured from above.



The seat is then screwed to the base from underneath. The shaped area to the front. This means that the seat back supports are at the back.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#100 Posted : 04 December 2020 22:02:12

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Points: 1,521
Location: Cambridgeshire
Stage 48



This stage covers the seat backs for the front bench seat.



Once again, the foam is inserted into the flexible seat back covers. The foams are identical so it doesn't matter which one goes where.



The hard plastic pieces are inserted into the covers. Here there is a need to align the cut-outs for the back supports.



As with the base, the flexible cover is secured to the hard pieces with flanged screws through the tabs.



The hard backs are then attached to the assemblies. Once again the parts need to be aligned so that the supports will fit.



At this point I skipped ahead a little and added the side plates before adding the backs to the seat. This gives a better method of ensuring that the correct back goes on each side.



The seat backs are attached to the supports. At this stage, the seat should be attached to the floor, but I am waiting on some carpets for the front and won't attach it until after I have fitted them.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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