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Official HMS Victory Build Diary Issue 61 - 65 Options
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#1 Posted : 13 May 2011 12:41:35
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 19 May 2011 13:37:06

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HMS Victory Running or Standing rigging - The choice is yours!

Issue 65 will give you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions.

A complete sail set will be provided for the model, but some builders may prefer to leave them off, to display the details of the standing rigging which is very much as Victory appears today.
This 'bare-spars' option also makes it easier to keep the model clean, particularly if it will not be displayed in a case. Also, because the model is not actually on the high sea's, the sails of a model often look lifeless.

The reason you need to make this choice at issue 65 is that some of the blocks used for the Running rigging (with sails) are only required if you intend to attach sails to the yards.

If you decide to build the Standing version (without sails), you can omit most of the blocks. The blocks that must be fitted to the 'bare-spars' (Standing) version, are indicated by a Star on the mast plans.

You also have a choice of natural finish or paint - For the natural version, stain the centre of the yard dark walnut, and the ends dark oak. On the painted version, paint everything but the blocks and their ties black.

The Official Diary build - Will follow the route of 'no sails' & Standing rigging, and will be the painted version.

The magazine steps - will follow the route of 'with sails' & Running rigging, and will provide finish information for both the natural and painted version.
Tomick
#3 Posted : 25 May 2011 14:19:16

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Issue 61 - Contains assorted wood strips, eyebolts, blocks, thread & crosstree parts; and has instructions for the assembly and finish of the main mast fighting top.

The main mast fighting top (sometimes inaccurately called the 'crows nest') is the platform fitted at the point where the lower mast joins the top mast. Its main purpose is to anchor the shrouds of the top mast above it, but it could also be used as a lookout point or a station for sharpshooters.

Assembling the base of the main mast fighting top - Glue the pre-cut surround to the shaped base of the fighting top, making sure the two are exactly aligned, then glue the front upper surround on top of the assembly aligning it with the outer edge.
Then cut strips of 3x2mm wood to complete the surround, aligning the inside edge with the surround, leaving the outside edge overhanging which will be sanded flush later.

There are six shaped parts that make up the cross trees. - Start by turning the fighting top over and glue the two longest pieces in place, locate them so that the edges are flush with the cut-out edges.
Then take the two remaining cross trees and short spacer pieces and dry fit them together. The gap between the cross trees needs to be 8 to 8.5mm, you may need to file the slots in the cross trees and the ends of the spacer to get a snug fit.
Fit the assembly over the two long cross trees so that the forward arms run either side of the cut-out in the fighting top, you may need to adjust the slots in the cross trees to get a good fit, then glue the pieces into position.
Sand the edges of the fighting top smooth, making the overhanging edges flush with the edge of the top.

Adding the hand rail - Cut two strips of 2x3mm wood and one piece of 2x2mm strip, making them the same length as the width of the fighting top.
Drill five holes into the 2x3mm strips only, and make them all 1mm in diameter and position as per the guide in the magazine - (the holes of both strips must align with each other).
Glue one of the two 2x3mm strips just drilled to the rear edge of the fighting top so that it sits flush with the rear edge of the fighting top.
Then glue the 2x2mm strip so that it is aligned along the centre of the 2x3mm strip to form the hand rail.

Assembling the base of the main mast top - Using the reference points noted in the magazine, drill two rows of six 1.5mm holes thru the fighting top; Note - You may find that the 38mm forward hole slightly encroaches into the forward crosstree by about 0.25mm, therefore this mark should be moved slightly backwards by approx 0.5mm so that the hole is just aft of the crosstree, thus avoiding it.
Turn the top over and drill another 10 holes, this time 0.7mm in diameter as per the reference points noted in the magazine.

If you have opted for a natural wood finish to your model, stain the entire assembly and handrail your chosen colour BEFORE fitting the ribs to the fighting top.
If you have opted the painted finish, paint the entire fighting top and handrail black AFTER fitting the ribs as noted below.

You need to cut 27 ribs from 2x5mm wood to fit the base of the fighting top, the general shape of each rib is the same, however each rib needs to be individually shaped to suit its position, (I set out and laid the ribs on half of the base, and then replicated at the opposite side).

Use the photo at step 5 of page 13 as a guide for the correct placement of the fighting top ribs. - Note that the ribs must not block the 1.5mm holes of the base, but it does not matter if they cover the 0.7mm holes.

Take the brass eyelets and cut the shanks to 2mm long, then superglue them into the 0.7mm holes on the underside of the fighting top, ensuring that the eyes are aligned as shown.

Take a small block and tie a single hitch around it using the thinner thread, the hole in the block should be at the knot end, pull the hitch tight and tie a second hitch to secure the knot. paint the knot with diluted PVA glue to seal it, then cut the end closest to the knot. Prepare a total of six blocks using the same method.

Tie the six blocks to the eyes on the underside of the fighting top in the positions shown, which should hang equally about 10-12mm below the eye.

Cut five 12mm lengths of brass wire and glue them in the holes in the back rail of the fighting top to form the hand rail posts, then glue the handrail to the posts to complete the assembly.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 62 - Contains a 1:1 main mast plan, assorted wood strips, mast dowel, heart blocks, mast collar, thread, pulley blocks & mast top supports; and has instructions for the start of the main mast build; starting with the shaping of the upper end of the lower mast, shaping the base of the lower mast and adding the top supports, (the main mast is not installed until later on). - Carefully study the plans against what need to be achieved!

Issue 63 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, cross tree parts, blocks, mast caps, thread, heart blocks, eyebolts, guides and cradles; and has further instructions for preparing the lower main mast, mast cap, cross trees, main top mast and the fitting of the main top mast.

Issue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons, gun port wriggles and slings; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant mast and adding the rigging blocks to the main mast.

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
65 also give's you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 02 June 2011 09:46:30

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Issue 62 - Contains a 1:1 main mast plan, assorted wood strips, mast dowel, heart blocks, mast collar, thread, pulley blocks & mast top supports; and has instructions for the start of the main mast build; starting with the lower mast, (the main mast is not installed into the model until later on).

The mast plans are to the actual size of the components, which means you can measure off the plans directly; carefully study the plans and ensure that you understand them before you make a start. - Always double-check all your measurements before cutting the wood.

Painted finish - If you have opted for the painted finish, complete the entire assembly first.

Natural finish - Follow the staining information provided in the magazine steps.

Shaping of the upper end of the lower mast - Take the 10mm dowel and lay it on the Main Lower Mast plan, make a pencil mark at the four key points indicated, then slide the mast collar onto the dowel and use it to draw a neat line around the mast at each of the marked points.

Place the upper end of the dowel on the Centre Finder on the plans, and mark the four corners of the square section, then join the points to make a cross on the end of the dowel.Then lay the dowel on a flat surface and place an off-cut of plank against it, extend the corner lines along the length of the square section (which runs to mark 73mm from the end).

Hold the dowel so the cross on the end forms an X, with the lines running at 45 degrees. Carefully make very shallow saw cuts across the dowel where the circle marks the end of the square section; when the cut is about 1mm deep, stop sawing before the blade reaches the corner lines.
Now carve away the curved sections between the lines to end up with a 8x8mm square, but do not carve all the way down to the lines as the corners need to stay rounded as shown on the plan inset.
Check the size of the square section frequently to make sure you do not cut too much away, and also check that the main mast top fits snuggly over the square section just made.

Mark a 5x5mm square on the last 5mm of the square section, though for now leave it slightly oversized for it to be trimmed to suit the mast cap supplied in the next issue.

Shaping the base of the lower mast - Start by sanding a small bevel on the bottom of the mast, check that the mast easily slides through the quarterdeck mast hole down to the 95mm line of the mast (which you marked earlier).

Sand a uniform bevel on the top edge of the mast collar, then carefully store it for later use.

You need to sand three flats on the mast as shown on the plans - At the front of the mast, sand a 5mm-wide flat measuring 188mm long, then sand flats on both sides of the mast (not on the rear of the mast) - these need to taper from 8mm wide below the square are, reducing to 3mm wide in line with the mark you made 127mm further along.

Adding the top supports - To make the 'hounds', take a 3x7mm strip, and cut two pieces 21mm long and round one end of each to the profile shown on the plan.
Then cut two lengths of 2x6mm strip, each 106mm long (cheeks). Taper pencil line each starting the full width of the plank at one end and ending 3mm apart at the other. Sand both pieces to a smooth taper from 6mm to 3mm, then sand an arc in the wider end to match the radius of the hounds made previously.

Place the two mast top supports (bibbs) against the plan, and trim them to size as necessary, then sand off the corners of the curved edge but leave the corners intact on the straight edges

If you've opted for a natural finish, you should stain the mast and bibbs your chosen colour before proceeding to the next step.

Glue the cheeks and hounds to the mast, using the plan as a guide.

Copy the positions of the rope bindings from the plan onto the mast (17 in total), then using the black thread make the mast bindings as described in the magazine, then paint the bindings with diluted PVA to secure; when the PVA has dried, trim the loose ends of the thread.

Finishing the lower mast - After cutting a 188mm length from the 2x5mm strip, mark the position of the notches according tot he plan/your bindings, make 1mm cuts with a razor saw, and use a knife to carve out the wood between.
Then glue the strip (rubbing paunch) into place on the flat area you sanded at the front of the mast, making sure that the cut recesses of the strip are aligned over the bindings, and that the strip is central to the mast.

Then glue the two bibbs in place, noting that they are positioned on the front of the mast, allow the glue to dry before fixing the mast fighting top.
Check that the mast top sits straight and square on the supports and adjust if necessary, then glue the mast top in place.

Cut two battens from 2x2mm strip to fit from the top of the cross trees to the end of the first square section, glue in place leaving a 2mm gap between.
Then add four short squares of 2x2mm strip, so that they are evenly spaced as shown on the plan, then repeat on the other three sides of the square section to complete the lower section of the main mast.

If you have opted for the painted finish, paint the entire base of the mast yellow ochre including the bindings; the square section above the mast fighting top will be painted black later on.

DO NOT glue the lower mast into the hull!

That's it for this week, carefully store any remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Issue 63 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, cross tree parts, blocks, mast caps, thread, heart blocks, eyebolts, guides and cradles; and has further instructions for preparing the lower main mast, mast cap, cross trees, main top mast and the fitting of the main top mast.

Issue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons, gun port wriggles and slings; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant pole/mast, and adding the rigging blocks to the main mast.

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
65 also give's you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

Issue 66 - Contains assorted wood strips, mast rings, pin rail bitts, assorted etched brass stanchions, black thread & hammock netting, brass wire, eyebolts, dowels, cleats, brass rings, pins & dies cast pullet blocks, plus a second bonus pot of copper paint; and has instructions for staining & copper painting of the lower hull.

For modellers who wish to finish the lower hull with real copper, a special copper sheathing tile set of the correct scale size tile will be available via the DeAgostini web site shop & order form within a coming issue.
The pack contains enough tiles to complete the task along with instructions for placement; cost will be advised at the point of going on sale.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 09 June 2011 09:17:33

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 63 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, cross tree parts, blocks, mast caps, thread, heart blocks, eyebolts, guides and cradles; and has further instructions for preparing the lower main mast, cross trees, mast cap, main topmast and the fitting of the main topmast.

Preparing the lower main mast - Start by carving away the centre part of the two mast battens fitted to one side of the mast (not front or rear side) to create notches 5mm long and 1.5mm deep.
Then take one of the two shallow U-shaped guides and fit centrally in the slot between the battens, (you may need to sand the guides to reduce thickness for a snug fit). Glue the part in place, then repeat the process at the opposite side of the mast with the second guide.

If you are painting your model, before adding the brown thread and blocks, paint the battens and guides black, but do not paint the end square section.
When the paint is fully dry, take the 0.8mm brown thread (supplied at 61), then take a pencil and place against the opposite side of the mast top to act as a spacer, then thread three loops of thread through the guide, going around the top of the mast and pencil; turn the mast over, tie the thread with a reef knot and seal the knot with diluted PVA glue. Trim the ends when the glue is dry and repeat the process at the opposite side of the mast.

All the rigging blocks are secured the same way as shown in issue 61, take two 7mm triple blocks (supplied at 61), and tie a loop of 0.8mm brown thread around them, seal the knot and trim the ends.
Tie the tail of one of the blocks to the middle of the thread loops created earlier, leaving about 30mm of free length, secure with two hitches and repeat at the opposite side of the mast ensuring that both triple blocks hang down just below the main mast top, and that they are both at the same height before tightening the knots.

Preparing the mast cap and cross trees - Take the larger of the two mast caps and drill six 0.7mm holes as shown, to fit six eyebolts; cut the shanks so they don't project from the opposite side. - If painting or staining, its best to do this before gluing the eyebolts and securing the blocks to the mast cap, but do not paint/stain the internal square and round cut-out of the mast cap. Then glue in place the eyebolts and secure two small blocks as shown.

Take the three cross tree arms, mark the centre and then make a mark 2.5mm either side of the centre. Glue the fore-and-aft rails of the cross tree to the arms, making sure the gap between then is 5mm.
Paint or stain the cross trees to your chosen of finish.

Preparing the main topmast - The topmast tapers from one end to the other, reducing the 8mm dowel to 6mm. Cut the mast to length after tapering, as it is otherwise difficult to create an even taper right at the end of the mast.
Lay the mast on the plan and mark the two lower marks (there is no need to mark the upper points as these will be removed during tapering). Taper as advised in the instructions, turning the mast slowly as you sand along the length of the mast, check the taper at several points to ensure it is even, (It should be 6mm at the top, 7m at the mid point and 8mm at the base). When the mast has an even taper with the correct diameters all the way along it, mark the square section at the top of the mast, and cut the mast to the correct length.

The 70mm at the base of the mast needs to be an eight-sided octagon shape and the 40mm at its top needs to be square.
Place a 1mm thick piece of card under the thin end of the mast to keep the mast flat, then mark the eight corners of the octagon using the centre finder on the plan, the using a straight plank extend four of the eight corners to the top of the mast - This ensures that the square and octagon are properly aligned.

Then carve or file the top of the mast square, but a little at a time for the cross trees to slide snuggly over the square section but do not yet glue the cross trees in place.

Place the mast on the plan and mark the bottom of the cross trees support, and then carve an octagonal base for the cross trees support. Cut four pieces of 2x3mm strip to fit the octagon, chamfer the edges and glue in place and allow to dry. Then cut another four lengths and fit into the gaps, glue in place and allow to dry.
Use an emery board or small fine file to taper the mast support, using the plan as a guide to get the correct shape.

The octagon at the mast base can now be carved, then use then plan to mark the three holes near the bottom of the mast. The holes must be in a face that is parallel to the top square section.
Drill the holes square to the mast using a 1.5mm bit, then stain or paint the mast using the magazine pictures on page 13 as a guide, but do not paint/stain the topmast square section.

Fitting the main topmast - The topmast is secured to the main mast by the mast cap and the cross trees below the fighting top.
Start by trying the main topmast into the round hole of the mast cap ensuring the mast is able to pass through, remove and glue the mast top in position making sure it is straight and square, and making sure that the round hole is directly above the square hole in the main top.

For the hand mast, measure the distance from the main top cross tree (which is glued to the main mast) to the underside of the mast cap.
Now make the hand mast which is the short pole that fits into this space.
Cut the 3mm dowel 10mm shorter than the measurement just made (which is 2mm overlength and allows trimming for a perfect fit), then cut two pieces of 4x4mm strip, each 6mm long and centrally glue one block to both ends of the dowel, and set aside to dry.
Then check that the hand mast fits to the length as necessary but do not glue into place as yet.

Cut a piece of brass wire 10 to 11mm long and file the ends square. Then slide the topmast through the mast cap, insert the brass wire into the lower hole in the topmast base, then push the mast down until the brass wire sits on the cross trees.
When you are happy with the fit glue the mast in place ensuring the two sections of mast are in alignment and that the square top section is parallel to the square on the lower mast.

Paint/stain the topmast as per the magazine photos.

DO NOT yet glue the main mast into the hull!

That's it for this week, carefully store any remaining parts for later use.

Future issues:

Isue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons, gun port wriggles and slings; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant pole/mast, and adding the rigging blocks to the main mast.

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
65 also give's you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

Issue 66 - Contains assorted wood strips, mast rings, pin rail bitts, assorted etched brass stanchions, black thread & hammock netting, brass wire, eyebolts, dowels, cleats, brass rings, pins & die cast pulley blocks, plus a second bonus pot of copper paint; and has instructions for staining & copper painting of the lower hull.

For modellers who wish to finish the lower hull of the model with real copper, a special copper sheathing tile set of the correct scale size tile will be available via the DeAgostini web site shop & order form within a coming issue.
The pack contains enough tiles to complete the task along with instructions for placement; cost will be advised at the point of going on sale.

Issue 67 - Contains a 1:1 fore mast plan set, assorted wood strips and fore mast top parts; and has instructions for assembling the fore mast top.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 16 June 2011 11:20:30

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 44,240
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Issue 64 - Contains dowel & wood strip, assorted blocks, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studding sail boom irons, gun port wriggles and slings; and has instructions for the making of the main topgallant mast, and adding the rigging blocks.

This issue covers the third and final stage of the main mast assembly, carefully study the mast plan and take great care with your measurements and read the instructions a few times over before starting the build.

This section of mast is joined to the topmast at the cross trees, and the two sections are also linked together by the smaller of the two mast caps.

Making the main topgallant mast - Start by marking the bottom section of the mast where the octagonal section ends and the taper starts, and mark the eight corners of the octagon using the centre finder on the mast plans, and extend the lines as shown in issue 63 (page 11, step 6).

Then taper the mast (using the method shown in issue 62), until you get a smooth taper, with the mast measuring 5.5mm diameter at the position indicated on the plan. There is a step of thickness of the mast at this point which divides the topgallant and pole mast; carefully make a shallow cut around the dowel to create the step.
Then taper the top section of the mast so that the bottom measures at the step 5mm and the top measures 4mm.
Then carve the octagonal base, and draw a line down the centre of one face, this is the guide for the lower two holes in the mast.
Then turn the mast through 90 degrees and mark a second line down the centre face, this is the guide for the upper six holes in the mast, in effect the two bottom holes are on the side of the mast and the six holes at the top face forward to aft.
Place a 1mm strip under the top end of the mast to hold it level, then use a 3mm strip of wood as a straight edge to extend the second line along the whole length of the mast.
Mark the positions of the six upper holes on the second line and mark the lower two holes on the first line, then carefully drill all eight holes thru the mast with a 1.5mm bit ensuring you keep the bit upright.

Cut a 10 -11mm length of brass wire to make the mast stop which will fit through the lowest hole.

Now place the mast against the plan and mark the position of the octagonal 'hounds' just below the step, and using the technique as described in issue 63 to carve an octagonal section in the mast, then add strips of 2x3mm wood to make the hounds, file and then taper to the profile shown on the plan.

Take the smaller mast cap (supplied with issue 63) and ensure that the topgallant and top mast fit the round and square holes, then drill holes into the mast cap and add the eyebolts as shown, noting that the two eyebolts beside the round hole are angled outwards slightly. Shorten the eyebolt shanks so they do not protrude the mast cap, then superglue into place.

Take the mast cap and the cross trees you assembled in issue 63, and stain or paint black.

Place the cross trees on the top mast and try the top gallant and mast cap in place. Trim the base of the topgallant to fit the hole in the cross trees, you may also need to trim it flush with the bottom of the crosstrees - Ensure that the mast sections are straight and in line.

Stain the topgallant mast to match the other mast sections, then glue the cross trees, topgallant, mast cap and wire mast stop into position - Make sure the masts remain straight and in line whilst the glue dries.

Take the wooden bead supplied with issue 63 and sand/cut a flat in it, glue the flat side centrally to the top of the pole mast.

Don't forget to paint/stain the mast before adding the rigging blocks after the next stage - For the natural version, stain the main shaft of the topgallant mast but leave the octagonal hounds as natural wood, and seal the natural wood part with your chosen finish of sealer (matt, satin or gloss varnish).

If you are painting your model, paint all parts above the fighting top black.

Glue together the three parts of the rope guide provided in issue 62, sand the assembly smooth and file three shallow parallel rope guide grooves across the length of the top face; stain the guide or paint it black, and then glue on top of the lower mast cap.
Stain or paint the two W-shaped brackets and curved cradles provided with issue 63, then glue them to the sides of the top mast - the brackets go just under the upper mast cap and the cradles fit on top of the cross trees.

Adding the rigging blocks - Take four heart shaped blocks supplied with issues 62/63 and tie lengths of the thick brown thread around them. then using two half-hitches, tie then to the lower mast at the four points marked on the plans, and seal the ends with PVA glue.

Prepare the rest of the blocks as noted in the magazine, referring to the plans and instructions to secure them as shown.

That's it for this week, carefully store any remaining parts for later use.

DO NOT yet glue the main mast into the hull.

Future issues:

Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
65 also give's you the option to have Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

Issue 66 - Contains assorted wood strips, mast rings, pin rail bitts, assorted etched brass stanchions, black thread & hammock netting, brass wire, eyebolts, dowels, cleats, brass rings, pins & die cast pulley blocks, plus a second bonus pot of copper paint; and has instructions for staining & copper painting of the lower hull.
For modellers who wish to finish the lower hull of the model with real copper, a special copper sheathing tile set of the correct scale size tile will shortly be available via the DeAgostini web site shop & order form within a coming issue.
The pack contains enough tiles to complete the task along with instructions for placement; cost will be advised at the point of going on sale.

Issue 67 - Contains a 1:1 fore mast plan set, assorted wood strips and fore mast top parts; and has instructions for assembling the fore mast top.

Issue 68 - Contains dowel, assorted wood strips, mast cheeks, side guides, mast cap, mast cleats, mast collar, deadeyes, blocks, brown, black & natural thread and eyebolts; and has instructions for the shaping, assembling and rigging of the lower fore mast.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 23 June 2011 10:48:54

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 44,240
Points: -6,458
Issue 65 - Contains assorted dowel & wood strips, brass wire, thread, quarter irons, studdingsail boom irons, assorted blocks and slings, plus a bonus pot of copper paint (one of two); and has instructions for constructing & dressing the main yard, finishing and adding the rigging blocks.
This issue also give's you the option to to choose Running or Standing rigging for your model (with or without Sails), where the rigging is different to both versions, and issue 65 is where you need to make this decision.

The Yard plans are on the reverse side of the mast plans, some of the parts you will need were provided with issue 64, the parts provided with this issue include some of the wood and fittings for the other main mast yards, which you will be constructing later in the series.

Constructing the main yard - The main yard is the largest and lowest of the three yards carried on the main mast, it carries the longer (180mm) studdingsail booms, which are also shown on the plan, at bottom left.

Start by taking the 7mm diameter dowel and mark the position of the thick octagonal reinforcement in the centre section of the yard. the dowel is supplied overlength - leave an equal overhang on each end and only cut it to length AFTER tapering the spar.

Use the centre finder to mark the eight corners for the octagonal section on one end of the dowel, then use a 3 or 4mm strip to extend the corners to the centre section.
Working between the lines, start by carving the dowel to a square section which is 6mm wide, using four of the marked corners as a guide, and to complete the octagon, carefully pare off each of the corners of the square.

Taper the ends of the spar until the larger hole of the quarter irons slides to the correct point shown on the plans. The yard end should be 3mm in diameter when the taper is correct, sand the yard smooth.

Cut eight lengths of 2x4mm wood to fit the centre section, taper the edges so that they will fit the octagonal section; using the plan as a guide, sand the corners of the ends.
Fit four of these strips to the octagonal centre section on alternate flats, and allow the glue to dry completely before continuing.
Add four remaining strips in the gaps to complete the octagonal section, allow the glue to dry thoroughly and then sand smooth the centre section.

Glue the two laser-cut yard slings to the centre section, using the plan as a guide to the correct location.

Carefully drill a 1mm hole into the centre of each end of the yard for the fitting of the studdingsail boom irons.

Main yard studdingsail booms: These are shown inthe bottom left corner of the plan - 180mm long, (the main topmast studding sail boom is shown bottom right).
Start by tapering two of the 3mm dowel booms to 2mm as shown on the plans (ensure you identify the correct pair of booms for the main yard)

Dressing the yard - Before adding the rigging blocks, stain or paint the yard to your chosen finish option; then add the quarter iron hoops for the studding sail booms, the central rope bindings, and foot rope supports.

Fit the studdingsail boom irons and quarter irons at each end of the yard, in the positions shown on the plan, Note that they have to be angled slightly upwards, at 30 degrees relative to the slings, glue the irons to the yard using superglue.

Make the footropes as shown in the magazine, to tone down the brass wire I used a 'browning' fluid to give a rope like colour to the foot rope supports, which in real life would be rope.

Adding the rigging blocks - The yard is rigged with blocks that are used to attach it to the mast and control the sails.
You have the option for Running or Standing rigging on your model, (with or without Sails) where the rigging is different to both versions, now and is where you need to make a decision as to your chosen route.

If you are building the 'bare spars' version of the ship (Standing rigging without sails), you can omit the blocks marked with a star on the plans

The 'Official' build is following the route of the 'bare spars' option - i.e no sails.

The magazine steps have instructions for Running rigging (with sails).

Fit the blocks as per your chosen rigging option as shown on the plan, then fit the booms and secure with a drop of superglue.

That's it for this week, carefully store the completed yard and remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 66 - Contains assorted wood strips, mast rings, pin rail bitts, assorted etched brass stanchions, black thread & hammock netting, brass wire, eyebolts, dowels, cleats, brass rings, pins & die cast pulley blocks, plus a second bonus pot of copper paint; and has instructions for staining & copper painting of the lower hull.

For modellers who wish to finish the lower hull of the model with real copper tiles, a special copper sheathing pack containing the correct scale size tile will shortly be available via the DeAgostini web site shop & order form within a coming issue.
The pack contains enough tiles to complete the task along with instructions for placement; cost will be advised at the point of going on sale.

Issue 67 - Contains a 1:1 fore mast plan set, assorted wood strips and fore mast top parts; and has instructions for assembling the fore mast top.

Issue 68 - Contains dowel, assorted wood strips, mast cheeks, side guides, mast cap, mast cleats, mast collar, deadeyes, blocks, brown, black & natural thread and eyebolts; and has instructions for the shaping, assembling and rigging of the lower fore mast.

Issue 69 - Contains dowel, assorted wood strips, guides & cradles, assorted bocks, foretop cap, thread, brass wire, eyebolts and a gun kit, and has instructions for making the fore topmast and its fitting to the lower mast.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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