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Lamborghini Huracán Official build - Packs 1 & 2 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 26 June 2015 17:30:10

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Lamborghini Huracán

The Huracán (Spanish for "hurricane" is Supercar car built by Lamborghini that replaced the Gallardo. The Huracán made its auto show debut at the 2014 Geneva Auto Show. The Huracán's 5.2L V10 produce's 610PS and has a top speed is over 325 km/h (202 mph) and can accelerate from 0 to 100 km/h (62 mph) in 3.2 seconds.

Radio controlled 1/10 Lamborghini Huracán

Official Lamborghini licensed product!

1/10 scale, Length 390mm, Width 200mm.

3cc nitro engine, four wheel drive (AWD), unique 4-tail exhaust and engine cylinder cooling head, 2-speed gearbox, oil filled shock absorbers, adjustable independent suspension, toothed belt drive. Pre-painted "Arancia Borealis" bodyshell. A 2.4Ghz radio-control system is included with Pack 12.

See the R/C Huracán in action: https://www.youtube.com/...4Q&feature=youtu.be

Additional items required: Nitro Fuel, Receiver 6v 1600mAh flat battery pack with JST (BEC) connector & compatible charger, Glow starter, Transmitter & AA batteries.

Receiver battery pack & charger available here: https://www.model-space....-smart-charger-kit.html

Huracán video build: https://www.youtube.com/...phlcB8NPsUhVkdtDPquOMyj
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#2 Posted : 28 June 2015 14:07:46

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Pack 1 contains Stages 1-5

Stage 1 – Front Wheel and Tyre


Parts supplied:

Front wheel
Hubcap
Lamborghini badge stickers
Tyre with foam insert
Nose panel


Roughen the inner surfaces of the grooves around the wheel with some rolled-up, fine-grade sandpaper to improve the adhesion. Now lightly sandpaper the inside edges of the tyre. To make this easier, you can first remove the foam insert.

Refit the tyre’s foam insert if you have removed it, then push the wheel into the tyre. Work the wheel and tyre around to fit the lips of the tyre sidewalls into the grooves on the wheel.

When the tyre is fully in place, make four pencil marks on the circumference at 90° to each other, on both sides of the wheel. At each point that you have marked on the outer side of the wheel, lift up the tyre lip, carefully put a small drop of superglue into the groove, and press the tyre lip back into place.

Use the same method to apply glue at the marked points on the inner side. When the adhesive has dried, complete the gluing round the whole circumference of each groove. Press the tyre against the wheel to obtain a firm, even join.

This stage is complete, save the unused parts for future issues.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#3 Posted : 28 June 2015 14:13:48

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
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Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
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Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 2 – Front Shock Absorber

Parts supplied:

Shock absorber oil
Shock absorber components
Tail panel

Take the shock shaft and identify the end with the two small grooves in it. Using some needle-nose pliers, fit an E-ring onto the groove that is closer to the centre of the shaft.
Fit the piston onto the grooved end of the shaft. Push it down firmly, so that it butts up against the E-ring already fitted.
Take the second E-ring and, again using the pliers, fit it into the other groove on the shaft to fix the piston in position.

Take the shock absorber body and fit the red washer into the smaller diameter end, then fit the black spacer.

Carefully screw the lower end cap of the shock absorber onto the body. Screw it on as far as it will go, but don’t apply too much force because that could damage it.

Hold the shaft by the piston, and lubricate the threaded end with a few drops of shock absorber oil. Now insert the threaded end of the shaft into the wide end of the shock absorber body. Push it through the washer until the threaded part emerges from it.

Using a strip of card or cloth to protect the shaft, grip it with pliers and screw the ball end onto the threaded part of it, using your fingertips to tighten it.

With a modelling clamp, hold the body of the shock absorber vertical. Fill the inside with the oil supplied, up to within about 1mm of the top, allow to stand for a few minutes to let any air bubbles escape.

Now push the ring of the shock absorber top through the upper end cap and insert the rubber diaphragm with the convex side facing out. Now screw the upper end cap onto the upper end of the shock absorber body. Tighten it just enough for the diaphragm to make the necessary seal so that there is no loss of oil.

Screw the adjusting nut onto the body of the shock absorber, fit the spring over the shock absorber shaft and up against the adjusting nut. When the assembly is complete, the nut can be screwed in and out to vary the amount that the spring is compressed.

Fit the spring holder between the end of the spring and the ball end. The holder will keep the spring in place.
Finally, insert the ball-headed screw into the hole in the shock absorber top. This screw is what will secure the shock to the front shock mount in the next assembly stage.

You can check the operation of the shock by holding its ends between your forefinger and thumb, then compress and release it.

This stage is now complete, save the remaining oil for later.
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stevie_o
#4 Posted : 28 June 2015 14:18:41

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
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Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 3 – Front Shock Mount


Parts supplied:

Front shock mount
Fuel tank and nozzles

You will need the front shock mount, the shock absorber you assembled in the previous stage, and a small screwdriver. At each end of the shock mount, you will see four holes: the lowest one, which is countersunk, will be used for the screw attaching the mount to the chassis. Now, though, you will be using the middle hole in the left-hand end of the mount.
Insert the ball-headed screw on the shock absorber into the hole, and turn it with a screwdriver. To make this easier, you can first use a suitably sized self-tapping screw to cut a starting thread in the hole.

Gently screw the ball-headed screw in as far as it will go. To avoid any risk of damaging it, do not use too much force.
Tighten the screw until the threaded part of it is completely contained within the thickness of the mount, and the shock absorber can still pivot freely on the head.

This stage is now complete, so store the assembly safely until it is needed again.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#5 Posted : 28 June 2015 14:21:32

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 4 – Left Front Suspension Arm and Strut


Parts supplied:

Left front suspension strut
Ball-headed screw
Locknut
Left front suspension arm
Bumper


For this assembly session, you will need the left front suspension strut, the left front suspension arm, the ball-headed screw and the locknut. You will also need two hex wrenches (Allen keys), 2.5mm and 5mm

To make the assembly easier, cut a thread in the hole of the left front suspension arm by screwing the ball-headed screw into it for a few turns, using the 2.5mm hex key.

Remove the screw from the arm and place it in the upper hole of the left front suspension strut. Using the 2.5mm hex key, insert the ball-headed screw into the hole in the arm and give it a couple of turns.
Tighten the screw until four or five turns of the thread are still showing. You will make final adjustments to it later.

Put the plastic locknut into the hole where the ball-headed screw is, and tighten it onto the end of the screw with a couple of turns by hand.
Screw the locknut into the strut, using the 5mm hex key. Don’t tighten it completely, to avoid jamming the screw.

This assembly stage is now complete. Before putting the assembly away, check that the arm and strut are free to move unhindered.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#6 Posted : 28 June 2015 14:35:54

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
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Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 5 – Front Bumper Plate and Body Mounts


Parts supplied:

Bumper support
Bumper plate
Front upper plate
Front body mounts
Body supports
Countersunk screws
Long screws for upper plate
Locknut
Body mount screws
Screws for upper plate
Body support screws


Locate the hexagonal seatings for the body mounts on the bumper plate. Place a body mount into one of them, with the holes facing sideways.

Turn the plate over while holding the mount in position, then insert a self-tapping screw through the plate and into the end of the body mount. Using the screwdriver, tighten the screw until it is fully inserted, turning it slowly and gently to avoid damaging the components.
Use the same procedure to fix the second body mount in place, remember to position it with the holes facing sideways.

Slide a body support onto one of the body mounts, with its domed side facing upwards. Turn it so that the hole in its side is facing outwards. Adjust the position of the body support until the hole in its side is lined up with the third hole from the bottom of the body mount, then place a self-tapping screw into the hole in the support.
Tighten the screw to clamp the body support to the mount, then fix a support to the other mount in the same way.

This stage is complete, save any unused parts.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#7 Posted : 21 August 2015 13:32:15

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
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Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Pack 2 contains Stages 6-11

Stage 6 – Front Wheel and Tyre



Parts supplied:

Front wheel
Hubcap
Lamborghini badge sticker
Tyre with foam insert


This stage is performed in exactly the same way as the wheel in Stage 1, the only difference is that you need to fit the tyre onto the wheel the opposite way round.
When both front wheels are facing to opposite sides the “arrow” tread pattern must point forward on both tyres.


Roughen the inner surfaces of the grooves around the wheel with some rolled-up, fine-grade sandpaper to improve the adhesion. Now lightly sandpaper the inside edges of the tyre. To make this easier, you can first remove the foam insert.


Refit the tyre’s foam insert if you have removed it, then push the wheel into the tyre. Work the wheel and tyre around to fit the lips of the tyre sidewalls into the grooves on the wheel.

When the tyre is fully in place, make four pencil marks on the circumference at 90° to each other, on both sides of the wheel. At each point that you have marked on the outer side of the wheel, lift up the tyre lip, carefully put a small drop of superglue into the groove, and press the tyre lip back into place.

Use the same method to apply glue at the marked points on the inner side. When the adhesive has dried, complete the gluing round the whole circumference of each groove. Press the tyre against the wheel to obtain a firm, even join.
This stage is complete, save the unused parts for future issues.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#8 Posted : 21 August 2015 13:35:57

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 7 – Rear Shock Mount

Parts supplied -

Rear shock mount
Rear body mounts
Rear body supports
Screws

Start by test-fitting the two body mounts onto the rear shock mount, there are two holes at each end of the shock mount, one for the locating pin near the end of the body mount and the other for the 3mm screw.

Now fix one of the body mounts to the shock mount. First, fit the pin into the hole in the shock mount, then insert the 3mm screw. When tightening it, be careful to stop when you feel resistance.
Repeat for the other body mount on the other side.

Take one of the rear body supports and insert a 2mm screw in the hole in its side, giving it a couple of turns. Slide the body support onto one of the body mounts, and lock it in place with the screw engaged in the lowest of the four holes and the head of the screw facing outwards. Do the same with the other body support.

The assembly is now complete, and you can insert the remaining two screws into their respective positions so that they are ready for use later.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#9 Posted : 21 August 2015 13:39:53

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 8 – Right front hub carrier

Parts supplied -

Right front hub carrier
Threaded plugs
Ball-headed screws
Inner ball bearing
Outer ball bearing


Insert the shanks of the two ball-headed screws through the outer holes of the hub carrier.
Fit one of the threaded plugs onto the end of the hex key then insert the plug into one of the two holes that contain the screws.

Using the hex key, screw the plug in until the ball-headed screw cannot move, then loosen it by a sixth of a turn. This will create a small amount of play that will enable the ball head of the screw to move freely. Repeat for the other plug.

Take the smaller ball bearing and insert it into its seating, which is in the centre of the outer face of the hub carrier, then place the larger bearing into the recess formed in the centre of the inner side of the hub carrier.

This assembly stage is now complete.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#10 Posted : 21 August 2015 13:43:57

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 9 – Front side frames


Parts supplied:

Right and Left front side frames
Self tapping screws
Grub screws


As well as this stage’s components, you will need the bumper supplied with Stage 4, all the parts for the front of the model that you assembled in Stage 5, and some of the components that were not used at the time, namely the front bumper support, the front upper plate and a number of screws.

Take one of the grub screws and insert it into the hole in the front part of the left side frame. Screw it in until it is flush with the edge of the hole then do the same with the right side frame.


Insert bumper plate assembly (fitted with the body mounts and supports in Stage 5) into the special holes in the bumper.
Hold the bumper and the bumper support together, then use two self-tapping screws to secure the bumper support to the bumper itself and to the bumper plate behind it.

Using another self-tapping screw, join the right front side frame to the bumper assembly.
The left front side frame will not be attached yet, because if it was, you would have to remove it again when assembling the differential.

Now screw the front upper plate to the right front side frame, making sure that it is positioned the right way round.

This stage is now complete.

stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#11 Posted : 21 August 2015 13:48:04

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 10 –Front differential case

Parts supplied:

Front differential case
Differential grease
Case O-ring
Drive pin
Crown wheel
Cup joint
Bearing eccentric
Shim
Ball bearing
Cup joint O-ring
Grub screw

The parts for this stage include some of the components for the front differential. In this stage, you will begin assembling this differential and use a small amount of the grease; keep the rest of the grease safe, because you will need it when you complete the differential assembly. The larger silicone O-ring (the case O-ring), which will create an impervious seal between the differential case and the cover, will be fitted later.

Make a small incision in the pouch of grease, and apply a light coating of grease to the shaft of the cup joint. Slide the cup joint through the central hole of the case, then take the cup joint O-ring and fit it onto the lubricated shaft to seal the grease in. Now slide the shim onto the shaft of the cup joint, on top of the O-ring. It will prevent the crown wheel from rotating in direct contact with the O-ring, which would ruin it.

Using the hole on the side of the case, insert the drive pin of the crown wheel into the hole in the shaft of the cup joint, centering it. Use a hex key to push the drive pin into place.
Now position the crown wheel inside the case, so that the drive pin fits into the recess on the back of the bevel gear. When it is correctly positioned, the crown wheel will be flush with the shaft of the cup joint.

Tighten the grub screw into the hole on the side of the case until it is flush with it. Place the ball bearing into the eccentric, which will later be used to adjust the drive belt. Finally, fit these two pieces into the differential case.

Stage complete, store any unused parts.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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stevie_o
#12 Posted : 21 August 2015 13:53:22

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Stage 11 – Front Intermediate Driveshaft

Parts supplied:

Front intermediate driveshaft
Small pulley
Pulley shoulder
E-rings
Drive pin

Fit the pin into the hole in the shaft nearest the middle, then slide the small pulley onto the shaft, with the side with the cross-shaped recess towards the pin. Position the pulley so that the pin fits into the recess.
Now you must slide the pulley shoulder onto the shaft so that it fits onto the hexagonal hub of the pulley. Push the two components together, making sure that the smooth face of the shoulder is facing outwards.

Fit one of the two E-rings up against the groove in the middle of the shaft, next to the pulley shoulder. Using needle-nose pliers, clip the E-ring onto the groove, so that it will prevent the pulley and shoulder coming off the shaft.

The second E-ring will be used later: you can keep it safely in a bag, or fit it onto the groove at the end of the shaft.

Stage complete.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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