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Senna McLaren MP4/4 Official Build - Stages 50 - 57 Options
Warthog
#1 Posted : 24 May 2015 15:17:39

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Pack 15 contains stages 50-53

Stage 50 – contains:
Manifold intake base (L) Manifold intake base (R) Cam cover base (L)
Cam cover base (R) Upper engine block (L) Upper engine block (R)
Assorted screws.


Disassembling the engine block from stage 7
Remove both the screws that were used to hold the left and right cam covers to the engine block in Stage 07. Keep the screws safely, as you will be using them again.
Now remove the rest of the screws used to hold the engine block assembly together, then neatly lay out all the parts on your work surface.


Mounting the manifold bases
Test-fit the cam cover base (L) by sliding it onto the engine block, with the ridge indicated by the yellow arrow fitting into the notch marked by the red arrow.
Now test-fit the manifold base (L) to the assembly, again with the yellow-arrowed ridge fitting into the red-arrowed groove.

Remove the cam cover (L) and apply some plastic adhesive to the area inside the red border, then replace it and hold it in place for 2-3 minutes.
Clean away any adhesive that is squeezed out beyond the edges of the cam cover.
Cut a 7cm length of masking tape and wrap it tightly around the assembly to hold the parts together. Leave for an hour while the glue dries.
Repeat this process to test-fit then attach the right cam cover and manifold base to the other side of the engine block. Leave for an hour.

Adding the upper engine block
Fit the engine upper block (L) to the left-hand side of the engine block, so that the colour-coded screw holes line up.
A screw J will be fitted into the holes circled in red and blue, and a screw L will go into the one circled in yellow.
Insert the screws J, at perfect right angles, into red-circled holes the engine block, as shown, and tighten them into position.

Now tighten the third screw J into the blue-circled hole and tighten, again making sure that the screw is at a right angle to the engine block.
The screw L can now be tightened into the hole marked by the yellow circle.
Next, you attach the right-hand upper engine block. On this side, it may be easier to find the correct position of the parts if you hold the cam cover (R), removed in Step 1, in place as well.
Screws J will go into the holes circled red and blue, and a screw L will go into the yellow-circled one.

As you did before, insert and tighten two screws J into the red-circled holes.
When these screws are in place, you can remove the cam cover.
Tighten another screw J into the blue-circled hole.
Unlike the screw on the left side, this screw will enter at an angle, as shown by the arrow.
Now tighten the screw L into the yellow-circled hole.
Next, turn to the front end of the engine block. Place a nut A into the space circled in red. This space will form a hexagonal recess when the engine block front is fitted (yellow arrow, inset).
It doesn’t matter which way around the nut goes.
Place the engine block front into place, then put the screws C removed in Step 1 back into the red-circled holes and tighten them.
At the back of the assembly, replace the engine block rear also removed in Step 1 and secure it using three screws D (red circles, inset).

Fitting the plug caps
Fetch all six plug caps from Stages 06 and 07.
Replace the cam cover (L) removed in the previous step, and tighten a screw D into each red-circled hole to reattach the part.
Test-fit the first plug cap so that the cap’s two side ridges fit into the notches (all outlined in red) and the pin fits into the hole (both circled in yellow).
Using a toothpick, dab the tip of the first plug cap’s pin with a little instant adhesive. Then reinsert the cap, and hold in place for a minute.
The parts are very small, so be careful not to overload them with adhesive.
Repeat for the next two plug caps, so that cam cover (L) has all three of its caps fitted.
Repeat this process to fit the three remaining caps to cam cover (R).

Stage complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#2 Posted : 24 May 2015 15:21:57

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Stage 51 Contains: - Manifold intake upper (L) Manifold intake upper (R) Manifold intakes lower x 2 Lower engine block side (R) Lower engine block side (L) Screws L (1.4 x 8P-M SiL) x 3


Attaching the lower engine block sides to the engine
You will need the engine block assembled in Stage 50.
Fit the left lower engine block side to the left side of the engine block, so that the yellow-circled screw holes line up. Then insert and tighten a screw L to secure the part to the block.
Do not over tighten the screw.
Repeat for the right lower engine block side.

Adding the manifold intakes
For this step, you will need the plenum chamber from Stage 07.
Test-fit the manifold intakes lower, one at a time, by placing one onto the blue-circled and the other onto the yellow-circled pins.
The larger holes on the intakes, circled above in red, should fit onto the pins.
Next, add the manifold intakes upper, noting which is which from the photo below.

Take the left manifold intake upper and fit its red-circled pins into the yellow-circled holes in the left side of the plenum chamber.
Hold the intake upper in place with masking tape.
Repeat for the right intake upper.
Now test-fit the sub-assembly into the holes in the top of the manifold intakes lower, fitting the red-circled pins into the yellow-circled holes.
Separate the parts fitted in the test fit. Apply some plastic adhesive to the circled areas of the first manifold intake lower, then attach it as you did in the test fit and hold it in place for 2-3 minutes.
Repeat to attach the other manifold intake lower to the engine.

Now apply some plastic adhesive to the marked sections of the intakes upper, and reattach them.
Begin with the rearmost pins, working forwards.
Hold the parts in place for 2-3 minutes.
Now leave to one side to dry for an hour. Afterwards, remove the masking tape and the plenum chamber from the assembly.

Fitting the connector to the radiator housing
You will need the left radiator housing (Stage 30) and the sprue of connectors (Stage 49).
With the sprue facing downwards, use a cutter to remove one of the connectors.
Hold the connector steady with a toothpick, then trim the excess plastic from its sides.
Dab a little instant adhesive into the shorter end of the connector, then use tweezers to fit the end onto the end of the hose A on the side of the left radiator housing, as shown in the inset photo.
Angle the part so that the marks left from the sprue aren’t visible.

Attaching the hose C to the gearbox
You will need the hose C and the gearbox assembly, both from Stage 49, along with the wire A, last used in Stage 44.
Cut the hose C to one length of 15mm and one length of 105mm. Cut the wire to 85mm.
Push the end of the 15mm hose C onto the indicated projection on the oil tank.
Now feed the 85mm wire A into the 105mm hose C.
Lay the hose and wire along the gearbox assembly from the oil tank to the rear, following the exact route of the yellow line below.
The Hose C should drop down at the rear of the gearbox assembly.
Now fit the end of the hose C onto the indicated projection on the oil tank.
Trim the free end of the hose C at an angle, as shown.

Stage Complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#3 Posted : 24 May 2015 15:25:26

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Stage 52 – Contains: Water pump (L) Water Pump(R) Lower Engine Cover
Oil Pump and assorted Screws.

Assembling the Engine Part 4

Fitting the water pumps
Tests fit then glue the two water pumps as shown in the picture below.

Fitting the oil pump
Fit the oil pump to the indicated space at the rear of the engine block.
Fit two screws J into the circled holes and tighten them into place. Note that the final position of each screw is slightly different.
Stop turning each screw as soon as its head meets the surface of the oil pump.

Fitting the lower engine cover
Slide a nut A into the indicated slot in the underside of the engine block.
Join the lower engine cover to the underside of the engine block, so that its projection (yellow arrow) fits inside the red-circled hole. The shaped tip of the projection should fit neatly against the nut A (inset).
Insert three screws J into the red-circled holes and tighten them.
The lower engine cover is now attached.

Attaching the alternator and the alternator belt
You will need the alternator and its belt, both from Stage 07.
Apply a small amount of plastic adhesive to the red-outlined section of the engine block rear.
Fit the alternator onto this, as shown.
Test-fit the alternator belt by fitting the red-circled and yellow-circled areas together.
Using a toothpick, dab the areas indicated below in red, on the inside of the alternator belt, with instant adhesive. Then reattach the belt as in the test fit. Hold it in position for a minute.
Take care not to get any adhesive in the areas marked by the blue circles.

Attaching the brake lines
Detach the left rear brake duct by sliding it along the shaft.
Test fit the left rear brake line and then glue in to position as shown below. Now repeat for the right hand side of the rear suspension and allow to dry. Once dry refit the brake ducts and glue into position.

Stage complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#4 Posted : 24 May 2015 15:31:48

Rank: Elite

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Stage 53 Contains: - Header tank parts 1,2,3 and 4, Engine mounting plate (L) Plug cover (R) Plug cover (L)
Screws K (1.4 x 10P-M SiL) x 2 , Screws L (1.4 x 8P-M SiL) x 2


Fitting the plug covers
You will need the engine block assembly from Stage 52.
Test-fit the left plug cover by placing it onto the engine block’s left cam cover. The yellow-circled pins on the plug cover fit into the red-circled holes in the cam cover.
The plug cover is very small, so using a toothpick to press it into place may help.
When you are happy with the fit, remove the part, apply some instant adhesive to the red-circled holes and then press the plug cover back into place, holding it for a minute.
Repeat this process to fit the right plug cover to the right cam cover.

Assembling the header tank
Test-fit the header tank parts 1,2,3 and 4 before adding adhesive. Once your are happy with the test fit, assemble and glue the parts together as shown below and refer to the instructions for a more detailed assembly guide.

Connecting hose A to the Monocoque
Place the Monocoque assembly from Stage 31, the hose A from Stage 34 and both front brake lines from Stage 49 on your work surface, then Cut two 80mm lengths from the hose A.
Note the difference between the left and right front brake lines. There is a small detail on the central union of the front right line.
Dab the tip of one of the 80mm lengths of the hose A with instant adhesive.
Press the glued tip of the hose A into the circled hole in the front left brake line’s central union. Hold it in place for a minute.
Repeat this process to fit the second 80mm length of hose A into the front right brake line.

Test-fit the front left brake line to the front left brake calipers, Once you are happy with the fit, remove the brake line, apply some instant adhesive to the calipers’ circled holes, then replace the brake line and hold it in place for a minute.
Repeat the process for the right-hand brake line and brake calipers to complete this stage.

Stage complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#5 Posted : 14 June 2015 17:41:02

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Pack 16 contains - Stages 54-57

Stage 54 contains: Pop-off valve rear, Pop-off valve middle,
Pop-off valve front, O-ring air chamber, Throttle body upper, Throttle body lower and screws.


Assembling the pop-off valve
Slide the pop-off valve front into the pop-off valve middle so that its ridge (yellow arrow) fits into the groove inside the middle (blue arrow).
Now place the valve rear over the valve middle, lining up the pin on the middle (yellow arrow) with the notch on the rear (blue arrow).
Holding the parts together, place a screw N into the circled hole in the top of the pop-off valve rear and tighten it with a screwdriver.
Now join the throttle body upper to the pop-off valve.
Hold the parts in place, and dab some instant adhesive onto the circled area of the underside of the assembly. Hold in place for a minute.

Attaching the throttle links and plenum chamber
You will need the left, middle and right throttle links (links L, M and R) from Stage 49, the plenum chamber last used in Stage 51, and the engine block assembly from Stage 53.
Place the plenum chamber onto the manifold intake lower, attached to the engine block.
Take the right throttle link and test-fit it into the gap between the plenum chamber and the manifold intake, as indicated.
Use a toothpick to apply a small amount of instant adhesive to the section of the right throttle link marked in red. Then hold the part into place on the plenum chamber, as in the test fit, for one minute.
Now apply a little plastic adhesive to the arrowed end of the middle throttle link.
Remove the plenum chamber and place the glued end of the middle throttle link into the circled hole on the inside of the right throttle link, fitted previously. Hold for 2-3 minutes.
Now reattach the plenum chamber to the engine block.
Make sure that the fit is snug, and that there are no gaps between the parts.
As you did for the right link, apply some instant adhesive to the left throttle link, using a toothpick. Fit the part into place and hold it for a minute.

Adding the O-ring air chamber
Slide the O-ring air chamber onto the front of the plenum chamber, with the yellow-arrowed projection fitting into the rectangular hole of the O-ring chamber.
Fit the pop-off valve and throttle body upper assembly onto the front of the plenum chamber so that the yellow-circled mounting post fits into the red-circled ring.
Hold the parts together and add the throttle body lower as shown below. Tighten a screw J into the circled hole (inset) to secure the parts.

Stage Complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#6 Posted : 14 June 2015 17:45:01

Rank: Elite

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Location: UK
Stage 55 contains: Oil/water heat exchanger outside, oil/water heat exchanger inside, Oil/water heat exchanger joint upper, Oil/water heat exchanger joint lowe, Engine mounting plate (R) and screws

The oil/water heat exchanger
There is a small printed detail on the outside of the oil/water heat exchanger, so try not to disturb this during the assembly. Use a cutter to scrape the paint from the edges of the heat exchanger outside.
Apply some plastic adhesive to the stripped sections of the heat exchanger inside, then join the part to the outside as you did in the test fit. Do not use too much adhesive, to avoid it being squeezed out onto the painted surfaces of the parts when they are joined.
Now apply some plastic adhesive to the stripped sections of the exchanger assembly, to which the upper joint will be attached, then hold the joint in place as in the test fit for 2-3 minutes.
Again, do not use too much adhesive, to avoid it being squeezed out onto the painted surfaces of the parts when they are joined.
Now follow the same procedure to attach the lower joint.
Note: The bottom left image of page 437 in your instructions is incorrect and the image to the right should be followed for correct orientation photos of what the assembled unit should look like. Also refur to the image provided below.


Adding the cable ties to the rear suspension arm
Prepare the gearbox assembly (Stage 52) and cable tie tape sheet (Stage 49) for this step.
Using the guide lines (see the Tips box on page 436), cut eight 1 x 20mm lengths of cable tie.
Use a ruler and tweezers to place the first cable tie 10mm from the ridge at the joint at the tip of forward arm of the rear upper wishbone, as shown. The adhesive side of the tie should face towards the rear of the assembly.
Now place a second cable tie 30mm along from the first.
Fold both ties over and underneath the wishbone so that their adhesive surfaces are facing upwards.
Take the rear brake line that will run to the brake line T piece, and, holding it tight to the upper wishbone, pull the cable tie nearest the gearbox around it to hold it in place.
Repeat for the cable tie nearest the brake.

Test-fit the rear brake line by pushing its tip into the hole in the brake line T piece.
You do not need much slack in the brake line for the rear wheels’ uprights, so if there is too much, trim it down so it fits neatly, as shown.
Once you are happy with the fit, remove the end of the brake line, apply some instant adhesive to it, and replace it. Hold for one minute.
Repeat this procedure to fix the rear brake line to the rear wishbone on the opposite side of the gearbox.

Securing the front brake lines
You will be using the monocoque assembly (Stage 53) in this stage.
Pivot the front left brake assembly towards the rear as far as it will go, without forcing it.
Place a cable tie 10mm and another at 40mm from the arrowed ridge on the forward arm of the front lower wishbone. Both should trail backwards.
Hold the front left brake line tight to the wishbone and wrap the cable ties around it to secure it. Follow the photo below for guidance.
Feed the free end of the front brake line into the indicated hole in the side of the monocoque.
Pivot the front left brake assembly towards the front. The free end of the brake line should stay inside the monocoque.
Repeat this procedure to attach the front right brake line to the lower wishbone.

Stage complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#7 Posted : 14 June 2015 17:47:51

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Stage 56 contains: Wastegate cooling pipe front (L), Wastegate cooling pipe front (L), Wastegate cooling pipes x 2, Intercooler to engine pipe (L), Intercooler to engine pipe (R), Battery cable, Injectors (L), Injectors (R), Aerial (L), Aerial (R)


Fitting the front brake ducts

For this step you will need both front brake ducts (Stages 8 and 11), along with the Monocoque assembly from Stage 55.
Fit the left front brake duct to the left front upright.
Repeat to fit the right front brake duct.

Fitting the throttle cable bracket to the Monocoque
Fetch the throttle cable bracket saved from Stage 49.
Strip the paint from the marked sections of the throttle cable bracket.
Strip a small area of paint from the Monocoque on each side of the rib.
Apply a little adhesive to the stripped sections of the throttle bracket, then put it into position as you did in the test fit and hold it for 2-3 minutes.

Adding the side radiator housings to the Monocoque
Fetch the left and right radiator housings and the underbody front (Stages 32, 49 and 51).
Remove the two screws J (along with their washers A) from the circled holes in the Monocoque.
You will not replace these screws or washers, so keep them safely with your other spares. Turn the Monocoque over, and remove the four circled screws to loosen the lower plate.
In place of the lower plate, fit the underbody front, lining up the colour-coded edges.
Make sure that the edges are sitting flush with one another and that no gaps appear.
Test-fit the left radiator housing to the left-hand side of the Monocoque. The ridges marked in red will fit into the grooves marked in yellow.
Use a sharp pencil to draw a line 15mm from the bottom edge of the Monocoque, to mark the area that will meet the section of the radiator housing outlined in blue in the step photo above. Use the cutter to scrape away the paint from the marked section of the Monocoque side.
Repeat the procedure to prepare the monologue’s right side, as shown below.
Now place the Monocoque back onto the underbody front.
Apply some plastic adhesive to the areas of the left radiator housing from which you stripped the paint, then attach the part to the side of the Monocoque as you did in the test fit.
Be careful not to damage the cockpit area when you press the housing into place.
Check that no gaps appear between the underside of the radiator housing and the Monocoque, then hold in it place for 2-3 minutes.
Use a 5cm length of masking tape to hold the parts in place.
Repeat for the right radiator housing, then leave the assembly for one hour to dry fully.

Stage complete
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Warthog
#8 Posted : 14 June 2015 17:51:43

Rank: Elite

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Joined: 20/03/2011
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Stage 57 contains: Tailpipes outside x 2, Tailpipes inside x 2 and a sprue containing engine fuel injector parts.

Attaching the injectors to the connectors
Fetch the sprue of connectors last used in Stage 51, and the left and right injectors from Stage 56.
Lay the connector sprue out on your work surface, then use a cutter to carefully separate the two indicated connectors along the red lines.
Now use a toothpick to dab a small amount of instant adhesive onto the end of the left injectors.
Place the longer end (inset) of one of the connectors onto the glued end. Make sure that the small ridge left by the moulding process is in line with the first injector (red arrows).
Repeat the procedure to fit the connector to the right injectors.

Adding the injectors to the engine
Fetch the engine block assembly (Stage 54).
The left injectors attach to the side of the engine block via the red- and yellow-circled sections. Perform a test fit before gluing them into place.
Use a toothpick to dab a very small amount of instant adhesive onto the indicated projection on the block, then use tweezers to push the first injector’s socket into place on it. Hold it there for one minute.
Repeat to glue the second injector into place.
Now do the same for the third injector.
The left injectors are now securely in place.
Follow the same process to attach the right injectors to the other side of the engine block.


Joining the fuel pipes, 3-way joint and pressure regulator bottom
Lay the sprue of parts supplied with this stage out on a cutting mat, and carefully remove the indicated parts with the cutter.
Note: there is a small rib at each end of each fuel pipe (yellow arrows). These are parts of the components and should not be cut off. Cut along the red lines to avoid this.

Test-fit the left fuel pipe to the 3-way joint. The red-arrowed rib at the end of the fuel pipe is square, and will fit into the corresponding hole in the circled union. When the pipe and joint are fitted correctly, and held together as in the inset photo, the yellow-circled holes will face you with the 3-way joint and the blue-arrowed nozzles facing down.

The rib and socket are designed to fit together in the correct way only, don’t try to force them to fit in any other way.
Separate the parts and dab the end of the fuel pipe with some instant adhesive, then fit the parts together again. Hold the parts together for a minute while the glue dries.

Repeat to fit the right fuel pipe. The pipe’s nozzles and holes should have the same orientation as those of the left pipe. Again, the square rib and the hole are designed to fit together perfectly.
The pressure regulator bottom fits onto the opposite end of the assembly, so test-fit the part to the free ends of the fuel pipes. Again, fit the square ribs into the corresponding sockets.
When you are happy with the fit, dab a little instant adhesive onto one of the ribs, re-join the parts, and hold them together for a minute.
Fit the second fuel pipe rib and socket together in the same way.
This completes the assembly of the fuel pipes.

Stage complete

Not far to go now! The last few pictures show most of the components you have been assembling over this series come together and contains some parts from future stages to look forward too.

Warthog attached the following image(s):
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