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Official Vettel RB7 Build Diary - Stages 81 - 88 Options
#1 Posted : 23 July 2014 12:23:44

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 81 - Contains the Throttle/Brake Servo, servo horn and screw.

Start by unplugging the two connectors that join the Switch and Battery box cables and remove the Battery box from the model.

On the opposite side of the chassis, unscrew the two countersunk screws from the top of the front throttle servo mount, and the two dome-headed screws from the rear throttle servo mount. Keep the screws to hand as you will be using them again shortly.

Now tur the chassis over and undo the two screws securing the rear throttle servo mount, and remove them.

Turn the chassis over and, holding the throttle/brake servo in your hand, feed its red, white and black cable and connector through the cutaway at the bottom of the front servo mount. Pull the cable through until the connector is beyond the front end of the gearbox. Then Slide the servo into place, with its front mounting tab fitting into the gap between the gearbox cover and the top of the servo mount. Push the servo fully into place, making sure that its screw holes align with those of the gearbox cover and the servo mount.

Hold the servo mount removed earlier and put it back in its original position, with its flat side facing towards the front of the car and the screw holes in its base aligned with those on the chassis.

Holding the mount and servo in place, turn the chassis over and replace the two screws removed earlier.

Turn the chass over and make sure that the screw holes in the top of the mount and those of the servo are still aligned, the replace the two countersunk screws removed earlier but do not overtighten as you may crack the plastic of the servo. Then at the opposite end, replace the two domeheaded screws removed earlier, and tigten them but not over tighten, to secure the rear of the throttle/brake servo to the servo mount.

Lower the servo horn, positioned as shown – with its shortest arm facing outwards and the circular socket at its centre facing downwards – onto the white gear on the top of the servo. Place the screw supplied with this stage into the hole in the top of the servo horn, and tighten with a screwdriver.

Finally, replace the battery box and re-join the two connectors that join the Switch and Battery box cables.

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#2 Posted : 28 July 2014 11:04:38

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 82 - Contains the fuel tank, O-rings, screws and a length of silicone tube.

Before you begin to install the fuel tank, mark the connector on the cable from the steering servo with an ‘A’, and the one on the cable from the throttle servo with a ‘B’. This is important, because it will be difficult to tell which connector is which once the fuel tank is in place.

Arrange the cables on the chassis to prevent them being damaged by the fuel tank when you install it - They need to pass beneath the tank.

Cut a 20cm length of the silicone tube (exhaust pressure tube). Then from the remining lenth, cut a 10cm length (fuel tube).

Push the tip of the 20cm length pressure tube over the exhaust pressure inlet spigot on the top of the fuel tank. Push the end of the tube on as far as it will go. Then push the 10cm length of fuel tube over the fuel outlet spigot at the bottom of the tank.

Place a dome-headed screw into the mounting lug on each side of the tank, then fit an O-ring on the opposite side of the screw thread.

Carefully lower the fuel tank into place at the front of your model, behind the front lower chassis and beneath the helmet air filter cover so that the two tank mount screws align with the fuel tank posts that you fitted in Stage 31. Ensure that the fuel and exhaust pressure tubes are routed as shown.

Tighten the two screws in the tank mount lugs into the fuel tank posts, but do not compress the O-rings flat.

Push the end of the 20cm length of the pressure tube over the outlet spigot just in front of the muffler. Then push the end of the 10cm length of fuel tube over the inlet spigot on the carburettor.
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#3 Posted : 28 July 2014 11:51:12

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Stage 83 - Contains the R/C box & fittings, and the starter bar upgrade.

In this session, you will fit an improved handle to the recoil starter and then install the R/C box, which is mounted on the chassis and houses the battery box and the R/C receiver.

Gently pull out the recoil starter cord until it is fully extended (you'll find this easier if you first remove the glowplug). Then wrap the cord around a large screwdriver, close to the engine, to stop it being pulled back in again by the recoil starter spring.

At the other end, use needlenose pliers to pull the knotted end of the cord out from within the starter handle. Use scissors to cut the knot off, cutting as close to the knot as possible. Then remove the existing handle from the cord and put in a safe place. (If you wish to prevent the cord end from fraying, carefully seal its end with a naked flame, using such as a cigarette lighter, or as an alternative use Superglue).

Place the recoil starter ring, supplied with this stage, flat on your work surface and feed the end of the cord into it. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the tip of the cord out from the rectangular opening in the ring, then tie a knot in the free end. Pull the knot tight, using the needle-nose pliers if it helps, then trim off any excess with the scissors. Apply a small blob of superglue to the knot to make it more secure, then pull the cord back through the ring so that the knot sits within the rectangular cut-out in the starter ring.

Hold the ring with its wider side facing upwards, and push the thinner end of the recoil starter bar into it as far as it will go. Then gently twist the bar until it snaps into place.

Next, begin the installation of the R/C box on the left side of the chassis by hooking the fuel tube over the top of the carburettor so that it doesn’t get in the way or become kinked. Then hold the RC box lower so that its wider end is facing the front and the crossbar is facing upwards. Slide the part down and forward onto the chassis, so that it fits neatly beneath the curved arm of the gearbox cover. Make sure that the screw hole in the R/C box lower ends up directly below the one on the tip of the gearbox cover. There is a rectangular cut-away section in the bottom of the forward end of the R/C box lower, through which the cables should run. Make sure that all the cables are fitting comfortably within this space, with none trapped between the box and the chassis.

Take the 3x8mm countersunk screw left over from Stage 61, and insert it through the hole at the tip of the gearbox cover and into the corresponding hole of the R/C box lower, and tighten fully.

Holding the parts in place, turn the assembly over and place the three 3x8mm countersunk screws supplied with this stage into the three countersunk holes on the underside of the chassis, and tighten each in turn. Then place the two 3x10mm countersunk screws supplied with this stage into the two holes indicated and tighten them fully.

Turn the chassis back over and connect the cable from the battery box to the red connector. NB: Don’t put the battery box into the R/C box at this point.

Place your R/C receiver (included in your R/C subscription package) face-up on your work surface, as shown. Plug the black double-wired connector into the socket labelled B/C, with the black wire on the right.
Next, plug the connector that you marked with an ‘A’ in the previous stage’s assembly session into the socket labelled CH1. Then fit the connector marked ‘B’ into the adjacent socket, labelled CH2.

Cut and fit a peice of the double sided tape onto the base of the receiver. then remove the backing tape, and carefully lower the R/C receiver into the R/C box, making sure that the base doesn’t touch the chassis until the part is in place, and position it as far towards the rear of the box as it will go. Then lower it onto the chassis and press it down to stick it in place.

When the RC receiver is in place, slot the battery box into place at the front of the R/C box.

Take the antenna tube, supplied with Stage 80, and push it into the hole in the top of the RC box. Then feed the RC receiver’s antenna cable (the grey cable) through the hole in the R/C box top as shown, inserting it from the underside of the box top, and push it through as far as it will go.

Slide the RC box top into place so that the tab at the front slots into the corresponding recess on the R/C box lower fits fully over the raised boss on the crossbar of the lower section. Carefully press the box top down until the boss is protruding through the hole.

Use needle-nose pliers to fit the R-body pin through the horizontal hole in the boss until the pin snaps into place.
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#4 Posted : 28 July 2014 11:54:06

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Stage 84 - Contains the front body and nose.

In this session, you test-fit the first parts that will make up your RB7 display body.

Join the upper nose to the frontbody. The parts should fit neatly together, (DO NOT glue them).

Hold the assembly above the front end of your model, as shown, and carefully lower it into place so that the cut-away sections on either side of the front body fit over the upper wishbones. Make sure that the edge of the front body sits flush to the curved side of the chassis.

This stage is complete, and you should now have an idea of what the bodywork of the display model will look like. For now, remove these parts and store them in a safe place until they are needed.
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#5 Posted : 18 August 2014 11:24:16

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 85- Contains the nose tip, nose camera, stay holders, front wing stays and screws.

Painting the display body: The display body is made of high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) that has been produced in the colours of the real RB7. As such, it can be assembled unpainted, or can be painted. If you opt to paint your display body, ensure that you use paint which is suited to HIPS.

I have opted the paint the display body. The initial colours used are Tamiya aerosols: TS-53 deep metallic blue in conjunction with TS-65 pearl clear, TS-47 chrome yellow, TS-29 semi gloss black and Tamiya white primer for the yellow painted parts & grey primer for the blue and black painted parts.

If you are painting your model, its a good idea to de-grease/wash the parts prior to painting, using warm (not hot) soapy water, rinse and set aside to fully dry. Apply primer, and when fully dry, use a micro mesh cloth (6000) or P600/800 emery paper to remove any nibs and high spots in the primer surface, then rinse in clean water and set aside to fully dry and allowing the primer cure overnight. Then apply the top coat, and if using clear pearl, it should be applied whilst the top coat is still wet.

This paint tutorial provides good information of how to paint a HIPS body:


For this build session, you will need the parts supplied with this stage, the upper nose (supplied with Stage 84), the lower nose (Stage 17) and the front wing (assembled in Stage 03).
Prior to assembly I painted the the nose tip and front wing stay holders yellow, the front wing stays blue in conjunction with pearl clear, and the nose camera plate black. I also painted the heads of the relevant stay screws blue and yellow. Set the painted parts aside to fully dry before commencing asembly.

Start the assembly by placing the lower nose on its side, and line up the right front wing stay with the two holes on the on the lower nose. Insert and tighten the first (painted blue) 2x8mm flat-head screw into the rear hole. Then position the right front wing stay holder into the curved recess on the stay, and tighten a second 2x8mm flat-head screw (painted yellow) to secure the parts.

Turn the lower nose and wing stay assembly over and fit the left front wing stay as you did before. Make sure that the screws holding the front wing stays are fully tightened and that the stays cannot wobble from side to side.

Place the front wing assembled in Stage 03 flat on your work surface, and position the lower nose assembly directly above its centre so that the two wing stays line up with the raised sections, and fit the lower nose onto the front wing assembly. The bottom end of each wing stay has a small pin towards the rear edge, which fits into a corresponding hole in the front wing. Holding the assembly together, carefully turn it over so the underside of the front wing is facing upwards. Then insert two 1.4x8mm flat-head screws into the two fixing holes.

Take the nose camera plate supplied with this stage and slot it into place on the front end of the lower nose. Slide the nose camera backwards until it sits in position, then carefully lower the (yellow painted) nose tip onto the nose camera. The nose tip should sit neatly at the front of the lower nose, with the curved sides of the nose camera fitting snugly on each side. Gluing of the camera plate and nose tip onto the lower nose will be done at Stage 88.

Next, position the upper nose supplied with Stage 84 onto the lower nose, so that it sits neatly behind the nose tip. DO NOT glue the upper nose in place.
Note - I have opted not to paint the upper nose until it has been secured to the main bodywork and once all of the display bodywork parts have been received.

Store the nose/front wing assembly safely until it is required.
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#6 Posted : 18 August 2014 11:26:37

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Stage 86- Contains throttle & brake rod parts and front shock ball end upgrade parts.

Carefully store the front shock ball end parts until stage 87.

Before starting the assembly, remove the helmet air filter by pulling its pipe gently away from the carburettor. Then remove the servo horn from the throttle/brake servo by undoing the screw at its centre.

To ensure the servo horn doesn‘t get caught up during operation, use cutters to remove its shortest arm.
Make sure that you cut a neat, straight line to follow the existing edge of the servo horn.

Slot the straight end of the brake rod into the indicated hole in the servo horn. Pull the rod through until the angled section is resting against the servo horn. Then use needle-nose pliers to pull the bend through, so that the section of the rod that is at a right angle to the main part is inside the horn.

Holding the servo horn and brake rod, feed the rod’s free end through the eye of the brake lever attached to the rear differential housing, then refit the servo horn as shown and refit the screw.

Next, tighten the throtle ball end onto the threaded tip of the throttle linkage rod, the threaded tip of the rod should be fully concealed within the ball end.

Now lay the throttle linkage on your work surface and insert the first 2 x 8mm flat-head screw supplied with this stage into the hole indcated, and on the reverse side, fit the 2mm washer over screw thread. Now lower the projecting screw tip into the indicated hole of the servo horn, making sure it runs through the 2mm washer first.
Tighten the screw to secure the parts, but don’t screw it in too tightly. Leave it just loose enough for the throttle linkage base to be able to swivel easily from side to side.

Slide the throttle spring over the free end of the throttle linkage rod and along so that it rests against the ball end. With the spring in position, insert the free end into the indictaed hole in the linkage base. Keep feeding the rod through until the spring rests against the side of the linkage base. Rotate the linkage base and rod so that the rod’s ball end lines up with the throttle lever on the carburettor, then carefully push the ball end onto the throttle lever until it snaps into place.

Use a knife and rule to carefully cut the silicone tubing into two 10mm lengths. Slide one of the lengths of tubing over the exposed end of the throttle linkage base.
Place one of the 3x3mm set screws supplied with this stage onto the tip of a 1.5mm Allen key, then dab it with thread-locking fluid, then place the set screw into the threaded hole in the side of one of the 2mm collet and tighten it by only a few turns, then slide the collet over the tip of the throttle linkage rod. Once it’s in position, tighten the set screw fully with the Allen key to secure the part.

Make sure the brake rod is centred and not coming into contact with the brake pads, then slide the plastic brake collar over the free end and along the rod. When the plastic brake collar is in position, slide the second 10mm length of silicone tubing onto the brake rod.
Prepare the other set screw as you did the first one, by placing it on an Allen key and dabbing it with thread-locking fluid, insert the screw into the second 2mm collet, and tighten it by only a few turns. Then slide the stopper over the free end of the brake rod so that it rests against the silicone tube, but with no pressure on any of the brake components, then tighten the set screw fully to secure the parts.

The throttle and brake rods should sit roughly parallel to each other when the servo horn is straight, further adjustment will be made later on during the RC set up process as described in the 'Car Tech' information of Stage 87.
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#7 Posted : 18 August 2014 11:30:48

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 87- Contains display body left and right air intake cowls.

Carefully store the intake cowls until Stage 88.

For racing purposes on rough surfaces, your RB7 will perform better with an increased ground clearance. Using the two ball ends supplied with Stage 86, you can extend the length of the front shocks to bring your model up to racing specification.

If you wish to perform this racing upgrade, start by removing both front shock absobers.

Unscrew the ball end from each and replace them with the longer ball end provided in Stage 86, and set the gap between the shock case and ball end to 7mm.

Then refit the front shocks and carefully store the short ball ends.
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#8 Posted : 18 August 2014 11:35:58

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 88 - Contains the middle display body, head protector and a helmet screw.

For this session, you will need your RB7 chassisr and the components that make up the front body and nose (Stage 84), the nose and front wing assembly (Stage 85) and the left and right air intakes (Stage 87). You will also need the Vettel display helmet.

The chassis of your RB7 is currently set up for race use. To fit the display body, a few adjustments are necessary to ensure everything fits within the bodywork.

First, remove the antenna tube and store it in a safe place, (the antenna itself should remain).

The next step is to remove the cylinder head from the engine. To do this, unscrew the six cap screws and lift the cylinder head away from the crankcase. Make sure to keep the two gaskets in a safe place, together with the cylinder head. Note: to ensure all the parts line up again correctly on reassembly, mark a line in ink across the top of the piston liner and onto the crankcase.
To protect the engine from debris ingress, cover the open crankcase top with a piece of plastic and secure it with an elastic band.

To begin the fitting of the display body, remove the nose tip and camera plate from the nose. Glue the camera plate onto the underside of the nose tip, then glue the nose tip onto the nose.

Glue the front body onto the lower nose and set aside to fully set. The glue the middle body onto the underside of the front body.

Glue the head protector into the middle body (or you can leave this part free is you wish to have it removable).

Test-fit glue the left and right air intakes (provided in Stage 87).

Fit the Vettel display helmet onto the raised section of the cockpit, then secure on the underside with the 3x8mm dome-headed screw, (if you are painting your display body, the helmet should be removed prior to painting).

You can now place the bodywork completed thus far onto your RB7 chassis.

The balance of the display body parts and decals are provided across Stages 89 - 94.

Your RB7 chassis is ready for its first start-up at Stage 89. (Relevant information about this is provided at this stage).

The Racing body is provided and completed across Stages 95 -100

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