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Rank: Administration       Groups: Joined: 08/03/2010 Posts: 19,151 Points: 53,871 Location: UK
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The ZIS-110 was a limousine from Russian car manufacturer ZIL, introduced in 1946. The ZIS-110 was developed from the reverse engineering of a 1942 Packard Super Eight during 1944. The first 5 prototypes were completed by August 1945. It was powered by a 6-litre, 8-cylinder engine producing 140hp and giving a top speed of over 140 km/h (87 mph). It was made in both sedan and convertible versions.
The ZIS was rumoured to use machinery from the Packard 180 assembly line which was sent to the USSR after American production ended. However, according to The Fall of the Packard Motor Car Company, there is no evidence whatsoever in the Packard archives of such a transfer. Moreover, as one of the main results of the collection of information and material of Bert Hein, there can be lots of current opinions within the car literature disproved. The database includes, in addition to some pictures of commissars with Packard's, a registry of existing cars and information about all ZIS versions, but particularly a point to point comparison between the products of Packard and ZIL. Therefore more likely that the top commissars, including Joseph Stalin, owned several Packard's and wanted their first effort at a luxury car to be based on what is arguably one of the top cars of the 1940's. These cars were often given as gifts to foreign communist leaders such as Mao Zedong and Kim Il-sung. After Stalin's ZIS-110c cabriolet was used as a parade car for Nikita Khrushchev, the car was given as a gift to Enver Hoxha, the lifelong president of Albania.
The ZIS-110 model
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcptsGJdgaY
1:8 scale
Dimensions: Length 750mm; Width 245mm; Height 216mm
Operable front & rear Lighting; Opening doors, boot and split bonnet; Authentic ZIL 6-litre engine; Authentic white walled tyres; Operable windows and side vents; Authentic interior; Operable steering.
Clear, step-by-step English instructions (via download), accompanied by detailed photos to make building your ZIS-110 scale model, as easy as possible.
https://m.youtube.com/wa...2s&feature=youtu.be
Official Video Build Coming Soon!
On sale soon in the ModelSpace online shop!
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,349 Points: 12,828 Location: West Yorkshire
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Pack 1 contains parts for stages 1-5
Stage 1
Contents: - Left bonnet,Right bonnet,Left bonnet moulding, Right bonnet moulding, 5 - Ornament, 6 - Bonnet hinge,Bonnet hinge rail,Phillips screwdriver,Screws
Align the locator pins on the bonnet hinge rail with the corresponding holes in the bonnet hinge.Check that the parts fit flush together, then apply a small amount of glue along the join to fix together.Insert the pins of the ornament into the holes in the centre of the bonnet hinge rail and secure with a little glue.Align the pins on the left bonnet moulding with the holes along the side of the left bonnet. The front edge of the moulding is rounded slightly to fit the bonnet half. Press the moulding into place and secure it with six AP screws taking care not to overtighten the screws, as this can cause the moulding to bend.Repeat these steps for the right bonnet moulding and right bonnet in the same way.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,349 Points: 12,828 Location: West Yorkshire
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Stage 2
Contents: Front bumper,Lower front bumper,Right front overrider,Left front overrider,Left front overrider bracket,Right front overrider bracket,Radiator grille,Screws
Fit the left overrider on the top and front of the left of the front bumper, aligning the holes of both. Securing it from inside the front bumper with a CP screw. Repeat this for the right overrider.Place the lower front bumper onto the shelf at the bottom of the front fender. There are two tabs on the top of the lower bumper that align with two holes in the front bumper.Fit the left bracket onto the two posts on the inside of the front bumper, aligning the holes of both parts.
Secure the outer arm of the bracket with a CP screw, and the inner arm with a BP screw. The locator pins in the central part of the bracket should be facing down, as shown. Install the right bracket in the same way as the left, ensuring the two semicircular tabs on the brackets are facing each other.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,349 Points: 12,828 Location: West Yorkshire
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Stage 3
Contents: Right side of the engine block,Left side of the engine block,Cylinder head,Inlet manifolds,Exhaust manifolds,Heat mixture valve,Oil filler pipe,Oil filler cap,Oil gauge sensor,Screws
Push the oil filler cap onto the end of the oil filler pipe before locating the other end of the pipe into the left side of the engine block securing it with a BP screw.Fit the oil gauge sensor into the left half of the engine block, next to the filler pipe, secure it from the inside with a BP screw.Push the heat mixture valve onto the exhaust manifolds, fix the parts using an AP screw.Insert the ends of the inlet manifolds into the corresponding holes in the right side of the engine block and secure the inlet manifolds from the inside with six BP screws.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,349 Points: 12,828 Location: West Yorkshire
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Stage 4
Contents: Tyre,Wheel,Hubcap,Badge.
At room temperature, the tyre material has a low elasticity. To make the installation of the wheel easier, it’s a good idea to warm the tyre. To do this, you can immerse the tyre in hot water, or use a heat source such as a hair dryer to warm it.
Insert the wheel into the centre of the tyre. Turn the wheel so that it fits into the space between the two walls of the tyre.Work around the tyre, pushing and pulling it so that it fits flush with the wheel. Check that both sides fit together properly, then leave it to cool. If the tyre cools before the correct fit is achieved, use the techniques described previously to reheat it.Push the badge into the central recess of the hubcap, inserting the pins into the corresponding holes.Press the hubcap into the middle of the wheel, noting the cutout position that fits around the tyre valve.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.Spal attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,349 Points: 12,828 Location: West Yorkshire
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Stage 5
Contents: .- Crankcase,Lower clutch housing,Upper starter housing,Lower starter housing,Relay, Relay cover,Upper clutch housing,Gear cover,Screws
Fit the crankcase to the bottom of the left side of the engine block, aligning the posts with the holes. Secure the crankcase with two CM screws from the inside of the block. Fit the right side of the engine block onto the left. Align the holes of both parts and secure with two AM screws.Fix the lower clutch housing to the projecting end of the crankcase with two AM screws.Join the upper and lower halves of the starter housing together, and secure them with a BP screw.Place the relay cover onto the relay, securing it with a BP screw before attaching the relay to the starter housing with another BP screw.Fit the starter housing to the front of the upper clutch housing,noting its orientation, before securing it with a BP screw.Place the upper clutch housing onto the lower part, up against the engine block. Align the holes of both parts, and secure them with two AM screws.Place the gear cover onto the end of the engine block. Fix it in place with a CM screw through the upper hole, and an AM screw through the lower hole.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
Spal attached the following image(s):
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