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Titanic, 'Ultimate Build' 1:350 scale. Options
jase
#61 Posted : 04 August 2018 20:45:31

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Thanks for looking in Tom

The rudder continues with the addition of the Bolt heads to the hinge tops. I have used my RP Tools hex punch tool for this job the 1.5 punch is pretty much bang on the right size. with the rudder held in the vice each one of the hinges was gently sanded level with a very fine sanding stick, then the bolt heads were carefully positioned with tweezers and then Tamiya extra thin adhesive was flooded into the touch points.

I still need to sand the bottom of the hinges, fill the rudder top and file into shape before this stage is completed. the link anodes then need adding before the rudder can be hung.

Jase

jase attached the following image(s):
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arpurchase
#62 Posted : 05 August 2018 07:00:31

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BigGrin Looking goodCool
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#63 Posted : 05 August 2018 08:47:51

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Nice work Jase

Mark
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#64 Posted : 05 August 2018 12:54:40

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Hi very nice start ,will be following with interest ,cheers mick .BigGrin
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jase
#65 Posted : 06 August 2018 23:00:09

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Thank you all for looking in and the comments

Finally got my new set of decks today Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool

thought it would be nice to share a comparison for others who may want to build this kit.

My second set of decks are manufactured by Scaledecks in the USA. they have a website https://scaledecks.com and you can purchase through Ebay.

What you get its a single sheet of decks that fit 3 different brands of kit, basically the same kit but there are differences between them so the sheet has sone multiples of the same deck to ensure you have what you need which is great.

You also get a good set of instructions with tips on how to fit them. These decks are not adhesive backed which means they are easier to 'fettle' while fitting. The instruction give a method and some consumable recommendations.

The reason I purchased these decks is because the firs set I purchased from Artwork are designed to fit to the kit unaltered so live gaps where the plastic benches are placed. if, like I intend to, you replace with etch then your stuffed the deck is missing. also there are a lot of margin planks added, that did not exist on the real Titanic, so are intact less accurate then the plastic deck supplied.

Scale decks state these decks are designed by model makers for model makers and that they have designed the decks with modifications in mind.

obviously we need to see how they fit when the time comes, I have spotted one minor issue where the deck is cut to fit a kit part that has incorrectly be forced as per the Olympic, not the Titanic, so will have to modify the deck at that point but want be difficult.

The best feature of these decks though are the individual plank colours that make this look so much more real.

so far very happy with the decks, and the company owner is a very helpful chap too.

below are some comparison photos see what you think


Jase
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jase
#66 Posted : 07 August 2018 20:38:10

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amongst the many alterations needed to the hull is the haws pipes.. The kit has a flat counter sunk elliptical hawse opening that has a location hole for the anchor.

obviously once the anchor is fitted its largely hidden, but its not right and I dont feel like compromising on something thats actually a focal point.

Rivet counter suggests cutting out the aperture, but this also will not look right in my opinion, so this is my solution

First step was to fill the haws pipe opening with milliput, this drys as hard as the plastic. Once dried overnight I used a drill to open up the hole at the correct angle. I used a picture from the Olympic as reference see below. the hole was then opened up with a Dimond cut micro rat tail file. The rental curve of the bottom of the opening is also shaped with the file. finally very fine sand paper tightly rolled up was used to soothe away the file scratches

I think it looks a lot better


Jase
jase attached the following image(s):
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jase
#67 Posted : 10 August 2018 19:47:32

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To make the alterations required to the hull I have decided to work systematically a section at a time from stern to bow. The first job is to file and sand away the extremely heavy seam line down the centre of the hull, it tool almost as long a s sanding a wooden hull Laugh

The wings were then added for the side prop shafts. The connecting surface was sanded to help the adhesive bond. again some heavy seam clean up and some filling to do at a later date.

there are some water away holes in the sides where the well decks are. I have marked these up with pencil using the plans, then used a fine drill to drill holes along the marked out line and carved to shape with a knife.

There is quite a heavy sink mark on both sides of the hull at the stern, this was filled using squadron putty and sanded.

There are also some lips around the stern three of them, they are called knuckles one at the deck edge, another below the first row of scuttles and the third below the Titanic Liverpool wording. the first two are captured by the kit but are not very even or straight. so I chose to sanded them off completely.
These were then replaced with evergreen 0.20 plastic rod which was simply held in place a length at a time and the join flooded with quick setting thin liquid polly. This restores the evens and straightness and generally smartens up the stern no end.

the previously mentioned sink was filled after the first knuckle was added. two large holes were filled with milliput at the same time, this is because they may have to be drilled out so squadron was not suitable. the two are holes are supposed to be haws holes for ropes but are oversize and not correctly placed. You cn see in the photos below that one of the filled holes gets partially drilled out.

The second knuckle was added after sanding and the third placed referencing the plans.
When finished the knuckles were given a gentle sand with fine stage paper to slightly take of the roundness and blend the ends into the hull.

More soon


Jase
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jase
#68 Posted : 12 August 2018 14:28:14

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The modifications to the stern are nearly completed with the addition of more holes. there are two rows of scuttles missing at the stern, these are smaller than the ones already accounted for in the kit. one row under the second knuckle. the second row is further down above the larger scuttles.

Below the bottom row of scuttles two sizes of tiny holes need adding, these appear to be bilge outlets.

This completes the stern modifications. with the exception of the holes that have been made for the tie off points, these need a bar adding to the middle and as yet not decided on my best approach so will do the full length of the hull in one go. the scratch built rudder will be added just prior to priming to avoid the risk of breaking it while man-handling the hull

Jase
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jase
#69 Posted : 21 August 2018 21:40:53

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Just back from my Holidays and had two new additions to this build waiting on my door matt Cool

the first, I think is a relatively new item on the market, not seen them used in any build before and not listed on rivet counter either, brass replacement masts.
The masts come from a company called master model and the set includes two beautifully turned brass masts that are much thinner than the over sized kit ones along with an accurate replacement crows nest and two ships bells the forward lamp and the fore mast yard arm. all looks great, I am planning on showing the yard arm rigged in use, so this is really helpful BigGrin

the other item was some stud chain I managed to find, unlike etch this doesn't appear 2D so is a bit more real, and as its copper I can chemically blacken it should look great one in place.


Jase
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CaptnBirdseye
#70 Posted : 22 August 2018 07:45:21

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Looking good Jase, and great find with the chain ThumpUp
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jase
#71 Posted : 24 August 2018 22:35:58

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CaptnBirdseye wrote:
Looking good Jase, and great find with the chain ThumpUp


Unfortunately the chain is slightly oversized so will have to go with WEM etch or straight link chain.

Its the right siz for Makase though

J
kpnuts
#72 Posted : 26 August 2018 20:19:52

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That's looking amazing, you're adding so much detail.
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
jase
#73 Posted : 26 August 2018 20:28:02

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kpnuts wrote:
That's looking amazing, you're adding so much detail.



Thanks, really enjoying the scratch building of the hull

Jase
jase
#74 Posted : 26 August 2018 21:03:06

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Modifications to the hull continue.

there are some doors missing from the hull, 3 each side, which I have fabricated from plastic card, these are right at the top of the hull amongst the rectangular windows.

Just beneath the windows there is some form of cable or tubing, I have created this using fine wire (the back line you can see under the windows).

Two of the larger doors further down the hull should have two square windows not the large round one the kit comes with. I have carved out a rectangle then used some plastic card to create the filler dividing the two windows.

More bilge outlets are added along the waterline is I progress down the hull.

The famous condenser discharges are missing of the hull, one on each side. When Titanic sank these sucked water in and one of the life boats causing a life boat to nearly be lower on top of another.

I took the position and measurements of the Hannah plans and drilled out then carved the rectangular hole in the hull. two holes were drilled into some plastic card that was then glued inside the hull to create the recessed condenser outlets. some black insulation take has then gone over the top to keep the lights out.


Jase
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jase
#75 Posted : 16 September 2018 14:57:42

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Some of the doors that are on the hull need correcting. You can see in the first Photo that two of the doors have two square windows. the single round window of the kit was drilled out, expanded then carved into a rectangle. Plastic card was used to divide the hole into two windows, glued in then sanded smooth. you can also see in this photo the process of adding hinges to the doors. the Black doors are present on the kit the white ones my additions.

Photo two - the waterway holes are drilled out and I am replacing the raised ridges with scribed panel lines. the curve of the well deck bulkheads is incorrect and needs to be adjusted as the curve is to gradual, I will com mack to that as last job.

Photo three - the top row of scuttles is sanded smooth and knuckles added as described for the bow. These have yet to be sanded back. the knuckles continue onto the bow stem with the lower one atop the forward hawser which gives a good reference for opening this up.

Photo four - with the bilge holes all drilled through black electrical insulation tape has been laid down on the inside of the hull to prevent light seepage


Jase
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Gandale
#76 Posted : 16 September 2018 17:51:56

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Very nice progress being made, looking good....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
kpnuts
#77 Posted : 16 September 2018 18:17:46

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Doing some great work here Jase.
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
Markwarren
#78 Posted : 16 September 2018 19:17:48

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Lovely work Jase.

Mark
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#79 Posted : 16 September 2018 20:39:00

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A lot of detailed work so farBigGrin nicely done Jase.

Al
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#80 Posted : 16 September 2018 22:08:49

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Loving your attention to detail I get the feeling this is gonna take longer than a wooden ship
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