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Ragusian Carrack, Jack.Aubrey, scale 1:60 Options
jase
#101 Posted : 26 March 2018 19:01:50

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I see your problem jack. looks like it could have done with a filler bloc perhaps?. if you are waiting ten I would build up with wood and sand back into shape. some ships did have black hull so you could got either black or white

Jase
jack.aubrey
#102 Posted : 27 March 2018 08:23:14

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Monday 26 March 2018

Here below some additional images of the model . . same day of previous message. Regards, Jack.

01 Ragusian Carrack/25032018/IMG_20180325_122538.jpg


01 Ragusian Carrack/25032018/IMG_20180325_122555.jpg


01 Ragusian Carrack/25032018/IMG_20180325_122546.jpg


A nice present made of beers from Stockholm, hope they are good as beauty. I'll let them stand some days because of the journey and then . . . prosit.

01 Ragusian Carrack/25032018/IMG_20180325_184115.jpg
jack.aubrey
#103 Posted : 07 April 2018 14:15:46

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Thursday, April 5th, 2018

The first planking is now definitely complete.
The following three images show a small groove still to be closed in the connection between the hull and the forecastle. It is now closed but I didn't shoot other photos for such an insignificant detail. Now it is a matter of sanding and smoothing the whole hull to level the small differences in height between some strips and adjust a batch of small depressions in the lower area, below the WL, at the bow.


01 Ragusian Carrack/28032018/IMG_20180328_195638.jpg


02 Ragusian Carrack/28032018/IMG_20180328_195722.jpg


03 Ragusian Carrack/28032018/IMG_20180328_195757.jpg


While I'm waiting to get the will to breathe some sawdust, I proceeded to complete the second planking, with cherry veneer, on the transom. Three images of the final result follow here below.

04 Ragusian Carrack/05042018/IMG_20180405_160542.jpg


05 Ragusian Carrack/05042018/IMG_20180405_160449.jpg


06 Ragusian Carrack/05042018/IMG_20180405_160225.jpg


See you next time, even if I have a garden table with two chairs, a bit ruined by sun and rain to be repaired: sanding, a couple of paint undercoats and a final coat of clear paint with wax effect. This is to say that you probably shouldn't expect too many news soon.
Greetings, Jack.

TRGRichie
#104 Posted : 07 April 2018 14:35:55

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nice looking build and a good update.

Cheers
Rich
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Markwarren
#105 Posted : 07 April 2018 16:26:40

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That’s some great work there Jack. BigGrin

Mark
tigerace
#106 Posted : 07 April 2018 19:07:50

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Looking good there JackBigGrin great stuff Drool regards PhilCool
On the go: Deag's 1/250 Akagi, Hachette`s 1/16 Tigertank, a series of muscle cars, Hachette U-96, 1/8 Delorean, 1/35 Tamiya Tiger 1 (early) on SSYMS Flatbed rail car.

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jack.aubrey
#107 Posted : 09 April 2018 15:19:59

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Sunday 8 April 2014

Since I do not expect to have many things to show soon, I decided to discuss some aspects related to the finishing of the first planking, task mandatory to prepare the hull to receive the second planking. I remember that this second layer will be applied using strips from veneer of cherry wood.

Now let's clarify better: once you have applied all the strips of the first planking, you need to smooth the hull because you will discover a lot of imperfections, some of them of very little importance but also some problems that could affect the subsequent tasks and the expected results. Usually in this phase we'll work with sandpaper and sanding blocks to smooth and level the entire hull. In the worst cases using even some kind of putty.

One of the problems that occurs very often is the fact that two or more planks, placed side by side, are not properly aligned assuming the form of steps. They may be originated for different reasons, for example for a different thickness of the strips, maybe only for few tenths, or a curvature slightly different and so on. Regardless of the reason, during the finishing phase after the planking, you must resolve these aspects to get at the end a perfectly smooth hull, without steps, bumps or dips.

The solutions for leveling these steps are substantially two: 1) lower the area of the most protruding strip to bring it to the same level as the deeper one or 2) fill the area of the most hollow strip to bring it to the level of the most protruding.
In the first case it's a matter of sanding one strip in order to remove the excess part, in the second it is necessary to fill the missing part with a filler.
Regarding the solution to be adopted from time to time there aren't precise rules, it's our sensitivity, experience and knowledge of how we have applied the plank. However, most frequently, we will use both methods because these differences in height are very, very common.

Well, I have written that in the case of the solution #1 it is sufficient to smooth the affected area to achieve the result, while in the case #2, once the points to adjust are properly identified, we can choose between a) use putty as filler or b) glue some wood, in the form of strips of adequate thickness, in the area to be filled and then level it by sanding.

Photos #01 and #02 here below show on the hull of my carrack some areas, highlighted with a pencil, where you need to apply the filler. Thanks to the high contrast of the images in daylight, many other areas with steps are also visible. If not marked with the pencil, it means that I have decided to use the #1 solution. After a preliminary roughing, I sat in a well lit area and proceeded to identify these critical areas and to highlight them, marking their right positioning.

It's all for today, see you next time. I beg your pardon for my english, greetings, Jack.


01 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_105523.jpg


02 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_105529.jpg
jase
#108 Posted : 09 April 2018 20:55:51

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Looking great, so is your weather 😎
Tomick
#109 Posted : 10 April 2018 06:09:07
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Very nice work, should look a lovely model when complete Cool
jack.aubrey
#110 Posted : 10 April 2018 09:11:00

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Monday 9 April 2014

Now it's a matter to apply the filler. Personally I try to avoid using putty and I prefer to use wooden strips as a filler.

For this purpose I have a supply of sweetwood strips of 0.5mm thickness which is usually good for almost all cases. The strips must be the same height as those used for the planking.

I cutout a piece of strip with the length of the area to be filled, then, using the cyanoacrylate glue I paste it in place and move to another area until the operation is completed on all the previously highlighted parts. At this point, I cover these areas with a coat of vinyl glue diluted 50% with water. In this way I soak the strip and fill all the outer edges with glue. This operation adequately fixes the batten to the hull even in the most remote areas ensuring a bonding that covers 100% of the area ensuring a perfect seal. Images #03 and #04 show these strips applied and before the next sanding phase.

I let, for safety, spend a day to dry and then I move to smooth the part of the wood strip in excess. At this point the problem is 99% solved. Once polished with ever finer abrasive paper, I proceed to stabilize the area by reapplying a second coat of diluted vinyl followed a few hours after by a slight smoothing with a fairly fine abrasive paper. In the most difficult cases only at this point I consider the application of a small amount of putty.


03 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115552.jpg


04 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115602.jpg


PS: This technique can also be used to fix areas of the hull where there are slight dips.
Photos #05 and #06 show two of these areas in the bow area in which I have implemented this technique.
I think, instead, that for the bumps there is only one solution: prevent their formation by checking well the course of the plank before applying it.


05 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115608.jpg


06 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115625.jpg


In the next message I will go on to show the result obtained when processing is finished.
jack.aubrey
#111 Posted : 15 April 2018 15:35:15

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Friday, April 16th, 2018

Today, let's try to complete the speech interrupted a few days ago, relating to the removal of the gaps between a plank and its adjacents without using putty.

Once the preliminary tasks have been completed (glueing strip segments, fixing them with diluted vinyl glue, etc.), we proceed by sanding these sections to level them to the other parts of the hull.

It is advisable to work gently, avoiding to use coarse grained sandpaper. It is important to use only sanding blocks, avoiding, until the desired result is achieved, the use of abrasive paper only with hands.

The first two images show the work almost finished when this technique is used to eliminate the differences in height between one strip and another: depending on the height of the gap, the piece will be more or less thin, so that in some points the signs made with a pencil, to delimit the area, may appear, while in others not.


01 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183457.jpg


02 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183512.jpg


In the next two images, instead, we see the results when using this technique to fill in depressions on the hull. Here the papersanding technique, although very similar, is slightly different but with a little practice and intuition you may easily learn how to proceed.

03 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183432.jpg


04 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183520.jpg


Finally, an image from a particular perspectiv where it is possible to notice how the two slight depressions that were present are now disappeared. This is appreciable by observing the correct curve on the hull.

05 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183540.jpg


Finally, as last step, a new coat of diluted vinyl glue over the areas where we worked on and, when the mixture of water and glue will be perfectly dry, a light refinement with very thin abrasive paper to completely smooth the whole. To speed up drying and waste little time, you can use a hair dryer.
  
Now that we have also fixed these problems we can move on to the final hull sanding which from now on becomes an ordinary matter, made of patience and sawdust. In some cases we could fill some small grooves in certain points of the hull with putty, but usually, having to apply above a second planking, this operation is not strictly necessary and could even be bypassed.

A friendly goodbye, Jack.Aubrey.
jack.aubrey
#112 Posted : 03 May 2018 12:23:16

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Thursday 3 May 2018

In view of my return to Cinisello Balsamo, planned for Friday, May 11th after eight months in Tuscany, I packed all the necessary material for the Ragusian Carrack I have here in Pisa.
But, as the old italian proverb says, "the devil makes the pots but not the lids", and so a unplanned problem was born that forces me to postpone my return, probably until mid-June.

Consequence of this is that I am forced to keep the shipyard closed for longer than I thought, so do not expect further progress on this log for some time, at least until the second half of June.

Best regards, Jack.
daffy09
#113 Posted : 04 May 2018 14:35:53

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Hi Jack
May I wish you a smooth transition and look forward to the point of time where you can re-start your build diary. I am finding this one a unique and interesting build and a pleasure to follow.
Happy building
David
jack.aubrey
#114 Posted : 04 May 2018 18:10:23

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daffy09 wrote:
Hi Jack
May I wish you a smooth transition and look forward to the point of time where you can re-start your build diary. I am finding this one a unique and interesting build and a pleasure to follow.
Happy building
David

Thankyou very much, David. Hope to be back asap. Jack.
Gibbo
#115 Posted : 05 May 2018 12:33:41

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I hope all is well with you and yours Jack, will be looking forward to your next update.
Regards
Paul
Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. DeAgostini HMS VictoryCollecting: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
jack.aubrey
#116 Posted : 14 September 2018 08:43:22

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Friday, September 14th, 2018

Hi friends,

After a long absence from this forum and shipmodeling in general I'm now, finally, free to restart the "Ragusian Carrack" shipyard.

I stopped shipmodelling beginning of May and I'm trying first to define a preliminary activity plan: I've forgotten a lot of issues and so I need to replan the next task of the project.

As soon as possible I'll resume posting on this forum.

Regards, Jack.Aubrey
jase
#117 Posted : 14 September 2018 11:38:18

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jack.aubrey wrote:
Friday, September 14th, 2018

Hi friends,

After a long absence from this forum and shipmodeling in general I'm now, finally, free to restart the "Ragusian Carrack" shipyard.

I stopped shipmodelling beginning of May and I'm trying first to define a preliminary activity plan: I've forgotten a lot of issues and so I need to replan the next task of the project.

As soon as possible I'll resume posting on this forum.

Regards, Jack.Aubrey


Cool looking forward to more build pics

Jase
delboy271155
#118 Posted : 14 September 2018 16:09:41

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Good to hear more of this one coming soon. Cool

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daffy09
#119 Posted : 14 September 2018 17:25:00

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Great to know you're getting back on track again, I've been missing this build and looking forward to its continuation.
Happy building
David
jack.aubrey
#120 Posted : 22 September 2018 09:38:00

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Tuesday 18 September 2018

Finally, after months of total inactivity, on Monday, September 17 I started working again . .
The work is now aimed to prepare the hull to receive the second planking: there is to perform the final sanding of the hull but also many other minor tasks that must be started before applying the second layer.
I therefore focused on the prow and the foredeck, where there is still much to do.
 
To begin I refined all the details left rough on the foredeck.

01 Ragusian Carrack/19092018/IMG_20180919_102258.jpg


Then I started to prepare the grating at prow by assembling the elements supplied in the Marisstella kit and then joining them together to form a surface suitable for the required shape. In the picture below the composite of the grating and the template that will serve to shape the finished piece.

02 Ragusian Carrack/19092018/IMG_20180919_102221.jpg


Thursday 20 September 2018

Having in mind the latest photos of the central area of the model I took months ago, it is clear that the new details added and visible in the picture below should be applied now, so as to cover them with the second planking. The pre-cut pieces have been modified to adapt them to my model.

01 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162148.jpg


I then finished the prow grating, shaped appropriately and finally I fixed it in position . . but there is still a lot to do, so the situation here is still evolving.

02 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162310.jpg


03 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162136.jpg


04 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162121.jpg


That's all for now, though not much.
See you next time, Jack.Aubrey.


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