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Sword Beach D-Day Landings Options
Christian M.
#61 Posted : 23 July 2019 14:52:18

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Great job until now, my respect! BigGrin

And I thought I build in mini scale with 1/87 ...but you make it far smaller in your diorama ... Blushing
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Plymouth57
#62 Posted : 05 August 2019 20:43:27

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Many thanks again for those kind words from Tony, Martyn, Mark, Kev and Christian!Blushing
I first bought some clear resin when I was building the paper Sopwith Pup, intending to try and cast the instrument panel in clear and sticking the dials on the back of it. Unfortunately as I mentioned above, the earlier clear resin wouldn't loose its tackiness on the open part of the mould so I gave up on that - this one however would be perfect for that as well! And Kev, talk about great minds etc etc - when I read your comment about the tomatoes I suddenly realised I'd forgotten to say just that in the diary!BigGrin If I could get some red micro (or is that ultra micro) spheres to add in the resin when the foliage is pushed in it would look brilliant!Cool (Maybe pumpkins instead?)FlapperAnd Christian, after 1/35 I thought going back to 1/72 was small - 1/700 is really pushing it on my old eyes!BigGrin

For the second house, alongside the greenhouse, I thought I’d try something a little more ‘traditional’! As you can see in Photos 1 and 2, (both taken in the Sword Beach landing zone) there appear to be quite a number of the old timber frame buildings which over here in the UK tend to date from the Tudor / Elizabethan period. (Note the two Churchill tanks in the background, one’s an AVRE but can’t tell with the other. There’s a Sherman on the extreme left and it looks like we were using the American M4 Half tracks too – unless it’s a bunch of Yanks who got lost!)BigGrin Its possible that the Normandy buildings also date from this era or possibly the style continued much longer over there. Anyhow, I decided to take the resin cast I made from the second example of the Skywave European Buildings set and add a set of first floor wooden framing with top to bottom corner posts as shown in Photos 35. The framing was constructed from Plastruct 0.5 x 0.8mm styrene strip (90721). This came in a pack of ten of which I only had one and three quarters strips left! Fortunately, all of the framing shown here came from a single strip so now I’ve only got three quarters of one left! (Must get some more from Antics!)
I fiddled around with the base design on this house. Initially I glued a thin piece of Plasticard to the bottom, slightly in from the edge of the walls to produce a raised slab of resin, which I then had to cut off with the razor saw. Unfortunately this kept producing lop sided bases after the necessary sanding down process so I later adapted that as you’ll see in Photo 7. Before that however, in Photo 6 the corner frames are being trimmed back, this is to allow the final casting to sit in its ‘socket’ formed by the pathway styrene strips. The house is sitting on its thin sheet base with a scrap piece of the same plastic in the foreground to create a level footing. Another section of the scribed Plasticard pavement is then pushed up against the house and the sharp knife blade shown here is slid over the pavement to neatly slice off the bottom of the frame at the correct height. Photo 7 shows that extended base with a thicker section of Plasticard glued to the bottom of the thin plate. When cast, the thin gap between the bottom of the house and the new thicker plate provides the guide to razor saw the bottom off flat!
The next step was to form the silicone mould to cast the pristine, undamaged building and then, using that resin cast, to get to work with the rotary tool and add some damage. I was deliberately more restrained with the shell damage on this one. You might remember the garden has a single crater on the opposite side from the greenhouse (as an excuse why said greenhouse wasn’t blown to pieces!) so the main damage to the house is on the end wall by that crater. Photos 8 and 9 illustrate the shell damage inflicted, and also show the additional base section waiting to be sawn off. I ‘blew in’ the front doors on this one for added effect!Blink Finally, in Photos 10 and 11 the base has been trimmed to size and the house is sitting in its garden along with a standard resin copy of the greenhouse waiting to try some shattered glass grinding in the future. That just leaves the last building to work on now – the largest of the Skywave set, which is the big tenement block which I’ll be trying to convert into a seafront hotel. More on that one next!
Until then, Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
The Base pic 13.JPG
The Base pic 14.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#63 Posted : 05 August 2019 21:29:57

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Robin

You never cease to amaze with the detail you put into these parts.

What gets me is even at the tiny scale you are working and with you pictures "blown up" to see - the detailing is just so precise. Really amazed by what you areputting together.

I am going to have a dabble with some resin in the next week or two - time as always Crying bought a "brand new" second hand kits a good while back and having finally decided it might be a good time to start found some of the parts short on quantity.

Hope yours continues well.

Tony

Happy Modelling

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Gandale
#64 Posted : 05 August 2019 22:24:07

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Beautiful work Robin, exceptional standards as usual...Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
Kev the Modeller
#65 Posted : 07 August 2019 18:39:57

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Another excellent treatise on the art of diorama modelling - well done Robin, great stuff as always! Cool ThumpUp

Kev Smile
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Plymouth57
#66 Posted : 23 August 2019 20:56:12

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Grateful thanks again to Tony, Alan and Kev!Blushing
Best of luck with your first trials Tony! One word of caution, see if there's an expiry date or date of manufacture on your kit. If it's all sealed up you should be fine but I've discovered that the resins have a 'shelf life' of about twelve months once opened, they will still produce good castings after that time but any flat surface exposed to the air (like the bases of my buildings) can cure 'lumpy' instead of nice and flat if the resin is getting old!Blink
So this is the ‘Biggie’! I've split this one into two posts as it was getting a bit extended! (there's a lot of explanations going into this, the largest of the buildings!)Photo 1 shows the completed original building from the Skywave European Buildings Set. This one is a little more complicated than the smaller houses in so much as the skylights or Dormer windows are separate pieces, which have to be glued into the roof rather than moulded ‘in situ’ as on the smaller models.A few days ago I was watching an episode of the ‘Abandoned Engineering’ series which featured a large ‘mansion’ complex somewhere outside of Berlin which had been a Nazi institution of some kind before the Soviets took it over to station their HQ staff and families during the cold war period. During a couple of aerial shots of the complex, in the background was a housing estate composed of tenement blocks which were the spitting image of this model – so that’s where they got the design from!BigGrin Anyhow, I duly made a silicone mould from the completed model and Photo 2 shows the mould being filled with resin (this is an earlier shot when I was using the mould as a receptacle for excess resin whilst casting other items). When the mould was finally filled I was able to remove the finished basic casting as seen in Photo 3. Actually, by the time I was ready to carry on with this final building I had two castings as you can tell from Photo 4. This shows the first of the changes to convert the tenement block into a swanky hotel. It had occurred to me that for a lot of separate rooms, a pair of simple chimneys was probably not sufficient! So using the moulded chimneys as a guide for the razor saw I carefully sawed down into the roof each side of them and then pared away the resin by craft knife, finishing off with a file to create the platform shown on the right foreground. Then, using the same embossed Plasticard I’d employed for the road surface, I constructed a simple box to form the chimney breast as seen on the left. Actually, it wasn’t that simple – I had to carefully chamfer the corners of each tiny piece to fit them together without losing the brickwork effect! I then glued a thin strip of Plasticard sheet over the top to create the concrete plinth thingy before then taking five short lengths of Plastruct 1.5mm round rod (90858) and cementing them together with liquid Poly on a flat surface. Once they were set I sliced off two sections and sanded one edge flat on each before gluing the sets on to the plinths to form the chimney pots. When they were firmly glued in position I then sanded the top surface flat as well as shown in Photo 5. I did toy with the idea of a set of chimneys on each end of the roof as well but decided to make do with just the ten pots in the end.
I decided beforehand that a posh beach front hotel would have to have a balcony for the top (first class) rooms and so I penciled in a line just above the first story windows. I then spent quite some time wondering how to achieve a nice neat groove into the wall to accept a plasticard strip for the balcony (my free-hand sawing technique doesn’t always ‘run true’)! By sheer coincidence I discovered a length of brass box section in my metal strip collection, which was exactly the same width as the pencil line so I was able to butt the brass up under the roof and use it as a saw guide to put in the initial groove as shown in Photo 6. The balcony was going to be formed from a strip of Plastruct 0.8 x 2.5mm styrene, which meant that the first groove would need to be widened. Before I forget, I liked the thin groove so much I continued it right around the whole building, whether the groove would remain as a simple ‘demarcation’ line or would be embellished later I couldn’t decide right then.
In the second part of the Hotel design, you’ll see how the groove got widened and the extra careful moulding and casting techniques to get a good clean resin copy (all the better to turn into a shell shocked ruin!)Flapper

Back soon with part 2!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
The Base pic 15 Hotel.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Plymouth57
#67 Posted : 27 August 2019 20:41:49

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Some years ago my brother gave me a dinky little tool set for Christmas. It contained a little retractable craft knife, two mini screwdrivers and an awl, a little hammer, a one-metre tape measure, a tiny pair of pliers and finally, a miniature saw. It was really a ‘novelty’ set but it’s really good just how many of those tools come in handy for modelling!Cool In this case, as shown in Photo 7, that mini saw was just big enough to enlarge the razor saw cut as mentioned last time to take the 0.8mm balcony. After gluing on the balcony I decided I would embellish that groove after all and used it to glue on a Plasticard strip to make an encircling ridge for the top story. Now I was going to leave the balcony there, but after some consideration I persuaded myself that even in this tiny scale, a balcony with only windows along it would look pretty pointless. I needed to put some doors along the wall for access! I was going to wait until the following weekend when I could get some very thin Plasticard sheet (everything I’ve got is too thick for this scale)from the local model shop, but then I suddenly realised that the partially emptied brass fret from the PE Oerlikon gun set had lots of rectangular panels separating where the gun halves had been. On closer inspection these were not only just the right thickness but a perfect size for the doors as well!BigGrin The five doors are shown after cutting them away from the fret in Photo 8 and superglued on to the wall between pairs of windows in Photo 9. The initial silicone mould is shown under way in Photo 10. This one was a little different to the others – instead of the building being central in the mould I allowed a bigger space on the front. This was to allow me to carefully, and more importantly, slowly pour in just enough silicone to reach the level of the balcony as you can see here. The slow pour allowed the rubber to get into all the windows and lower doors and to push out all the air from under the balcony itself avoiding any air pockets which might cause resin ‘bubbles’ during the casting process. I allowed this first layer to cure fully before mixing up a second rubber pouring the following day and again slowly adding that to encompass the upper windows, new brass doors and the chimney breasts. The resulting resin casting went really well as you can see in Photo 11. This was also a multi-layer casting process, with each layer curing hard before the next – first the chimneys and roof, poking the resin into the chimney pots and dormer windows with a cocktail stick to move any air bubbles out, then the upper story as far as the balcony, again sliding the stick along the groove of the balcony and upper story ridge line, and finally, the lower story down to the base. The result was perfect apart from one air bubble in the end of the balcony and a half missing door towards the centre (so that’s at least two shell hits on the way!) And finally in Photo 12, here’s "one of the ruins that Cromwell knocked about a bit"! (If you know that quote you’re probably as old as I am!)Blushing
In the next installment, finishing the hotel ‘grounds’ and adding some more masonry debris to the road before the beach is finally attached.
Until then, Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
The Base pic 16 Hotel.JPG
The Base pic 17 Hotel.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Kev the Modeller
#68 Posted : 27 August 2019 21:13:53

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Excellent work again Robin, turning out really well and I like your lateral thinking in deciding to use any air bubbles in the resin as battle damage - very clever! ThumpUp

Will you be adding any PE (ship's?) railings along the balcony edge? Bit dangerous to walk along it without any and totally in contravention of paragraph 12 subsection 3(a) of the Health and Safety at home act (1944) tha' knows!! Flapper BigGrin

Kev Smile
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Gandale
#69 Posted : 27 August 2019 23:33:25

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Lovely work as usual Robin, looks great....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Plymouth57
#70 Posted : 28 August 2019 11:55:07

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Many thanks again to Kev and Alan!Blushing
Spot on there Kev! Yes I was intending to add the ship's railings to give a nice '3D' effect to the upper wall. With the damage to the left side of the balcony I can now have some fun twisting the railings into scrap iron down there!BigGrin
Health and Safety? (Raspberry noise)The hotel was probably commandeered by high ranking Nazi officers anyway, the French Resistance had already removed the nuts and bolts from the stanchions!Flapper

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Christian M.
#71 Posted : 28 August 2019 14:31:30

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For the 1/35 military model builders, I am already the "microscope model builder" in my 1/87 diorama project ... I do not want to know what you are then for these colleagues.BigGrin
Excellent work so far and my deep respect for the results until now. Cool
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tigerace
#72 Posted : 29 August 2019 11:03:34

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Amazing work RobinDrool Drool regards PhilCool
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Markwarren
#73 Posted : 30 August 2019 09:26:12

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Great work as usual Robin.Love Drool

Mark
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