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Crescent Moon - Not a Millennium Falcon build Options
Markwarren
#201 Posted : 07 January 2019 23:12:18

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Looking excellent.

Mark
Lundin
#202 Posted : 13 January 2019 03:49:41

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Trying a new idea, foamcard, or whatever it's called.
And I am doing it in parts so I can remove and work on one room at a time for much better access. That is not visible in the photo.



I am using the same layout for the cliff as before. It will be just slightly different.

I am not sure the clay will stick that good to the smooth paper that covers the foam but I think a layer of white glue sprinkled with sand will make a good key for the clay.
Markwarren
#203 Posted : 13 January 2019 11:09:13

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Looking good, you must be preparing a dedicated room, looking at what the size of this is going to be. LOL

Mark
Lundin
#204 Posted : 13 January 2019 23:42:16

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It will be a coffee table with a glass top, with the diorama and ship inside it.
I have no livingroom to entertain guests. I made it into my studio instead. That was more important I thought. BigGrin
But it will find it's place somehow somewhere in the house. If it gets finished.
I am planning a small extension of the house. Maybe there will be room in there. Confused

As I have mentioned before, this is just an huge opportunity for me to do a deep dive into modelbuilding and try all techniques and methods I find interesting. Both things I already know and things I have never tried.
I have no deadline, so I am fine with it taking years to finish.

But when it's done it will be the most complicated, difficult and joyful project I have ever started.

I have spent years looking at youtube videos and forums what other modelers have been doing and saved it all until later when I will be in a position to try it for myself.
That situation is now.

There is plan to the madness. There is a reason why I made it a difficult, time consuming and huge project.
I want to learn. Trial and error, and that sort of thing.

arpurchase
#205 Posted : 13 January 2019 23:48:50

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BigGrin Your having fun with your learning curve and entertaining the forum at the same time. I think this will be pretty spectacular when finishedDrool Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool Drool Cool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Lundin
#206 Posted : 23 July 2019 23:03:09

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Hi guys. Been away from the posting for half a year or so. At least half a year.

I fought a kidney stone for a week. That was painfull experience!
But it's mostly because I decided to enroll on a ceramics course. At first 6 weeks long. But after the weeks were gone, -Hey this is fun. So 6 weeks more. But, -Hey this is still fun, so only 3 more weeks because there is something called summer that puts stop to many things, like attendance. Because of the sun and bathing in lakes and other nice things people likes to do rather than play with clay.
And I didn't even try to throw pots. Only did the kneeding clay and do it by hand without the wheel.
Didn't produce much but I always wanted to work with clay. It is an amazing material. It has its quirks and limitations.

So if you got nothing to do, want to try something new and different, try a pottery class.

But I have not been idle for all this time.

I have been collecting greeblies, where ever I could find them.
I will make a post about them later. I started to prepare one so I will add to it.

Also did a lot of thinking about the build. I am still doing what I have been planning. There might be some small changes though.

The biggest thing is that I 3 weeks ago got a new 3d printer. It was just time to get it. After wanting a better one for 2 years or so. I wanted it before I went on vacation so I could play with IT instead of go out in the sun. And a specific printer kept popping up on internet, and a friend of a friend already had one, and it was the Anycubic Photon.

I have been learning it and how to make models in 3d to get the best prints from it. As a 3d-artist I make models. But all that are different sometimes to what you are used to. The rules of what will work. How to put smaller objects together into larger ones.
I think I have sorted that out now, since the prints that turn out good.

The other day I switched from the green transparent resin that came with my printer to a light grey resin. It's the one I want to use (if it works) because StarWars is very light grey. So as a "primer" or foundation I want it grey.

Started to print things and props for my ship and diorama immediately. No wasting time on test objects. :-D

I like to make my own models, because I know how to do it. I will hopefully never download from a site and print it just as is. There's nothing wrong with doing it, but I want it to be my bad.
I sometimes download from sites and use them as reference. It's a quicker and easier way to get sizes and proportions correct. Or MORE correct, than me doing it all from scratch. And there are always things I want to alter.
The free files on the download sites could be models ripped from games and those models are not always suited for 3d printing.
So I change thicknesses on details to maybe make them stronger, remove details because I can add that later as a styrén detail, change proportions to what I rather want, and make models hollow (to use less resin. Important for economy). And I know how MY model is constructed. When errors occur in the slicer I know how to fix them.

I am not going to ramble on about printer settings and things like that. So please don't ask me. There are excellent groups on Facebook for that.

This is something I printed today. Made a test print yesterday and noticed that the outside perimeter of the "barrel" wasn't smooth enough. It had 36 edges around. Increased it to 108. And that is for an object that is 20mm in diameter. Printing it smaller will work. But larger and I have to add more edges to it. One of those things I had to learn by printing. To find that threshold between smooth enough and not smooth at all.
At work I do VERY low polygon modeling (among other duties) so I am not very used to nurbs and sub-divisions.
I am open to new ways and softwares but I like what I know. It's meditative when it just works, and the end result is what I imagined. I often watch a movie at the same time.

I saw a barrel in a photo that looked interesting. It was a well-lit behind the scene photo so I am not sure how much of it visible in the movie. And I am not sure what movie it was from. One of the latest I think. Solo maybe. Just guessing.



Top to bottom.
1. The lineup in the slicing program.
2. Finished prints. Cleaned and cured.
3. Closeup on the crispness of the details.
4. For some reason the objects are not complete. Not sure why.

I will reprint some of my previous objects with the grey resin and upload.

And guys...
Don't mess around with resin without protection. It's not worth it.
Lundin
#207 Posted : 23 July 2019 23:10:51

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To continue my previous post with a few things.

I mentioned some small changes.
Those are things I am maybe not aware of right now but are related to the 3d printer and how I potentionally will use it.
I will be able to make some things differently. I might want to go another way to the same destination, because I can now, and it's more fun and interesting that way.

I also have been longing for a laser cutter. And I might have a lead on a used one.
But more on that when it eventually happens. Because it will.
I just hope sooner than later.
Markwarren
#208 Posted : 24 July 2019 07:52:28

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Nice to see you back, the 3d prints look great. Never tried pottery, sounds fun if not messy.Laugh

Mark
darbyvet
#209 Posted : 24 July 2019 16:27:46

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I think the resin your barrels are not printing cleanly is the rim at the top is probably a bit too thin for your printer and the resin is tearing off as the build tank is lifted out of the resin tank. If you make that rim a bit thicker I suspect you wont have failed prints.You may need to strain your resin tank too as there are probably bits of resin floating and if they get in the optical path of the laser it will cause problems with your print.The other solution would be to angle your part on the print bed since that will decrease the surface area of each layer and make it less likely to shear off.

As far as they round surface not being round that can usually be fixed when you export the 3d model as an .stl file.There should be a setting where you can adjust the mesh density so you can get a nice smooth curve instead of a stepped curve. The higher the polygon count the smoother it will generally be.I also find some 3d CAD software is better than others for this.Rhino is great because it will give you really nice sooth surfaces.

Carl

Lundin
#210 Posted : 26 July 2019 12:24:17

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Did some more prints.

Some Kyber crystal containers, and lettered signs.
The signs are just something I am testing, to see how they could be used.

The containers are a second attempt. They are 50mm long. First time I split them top and bottom. But I had a hard time glueing them together nicely.
This time I made them a hollow octagonal tube with separate ends. Turned out very good.
I based it upon a file I found online that I used as a reference.
I mostly made my details slightly more defined. More depth for paint to stick to later. Also better for drybrushing.

I have done some small tests with priming them, just with a brush so far. Will try the airbrush very soon.


Lundin
#211 Posted : 26 July 2019 20:48:52

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Bought some sodastraws made from paper some time ago, I wanted them as pipes. Why not print connectors and adapters.
Hard to dial in the correct diameter. I am getting closer to a prefect fit.

arpurchase
#212 Posted : 27 July 2019 01:19:21

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BigGrin Hi Lundin

All progressing towards the vision I could see from the start and getting better as you post more.

AndyDrool Cool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Lundin
#213 Posted : 27 July 2019 01:29:30

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The triple laser gun is the first thing I made in 3d after I bought the kit. I tried to print it on my old printer but that didn't turn out very good.
Finally I have a good version. A very good version. Just need some primer.



I have been using superglue to glue the printed parts. It sticks very fast. Too fast. I will need a "slower" superglue.
birdaj2
#214 Posted : 27 July 2019 07:28:04

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This is modelling at a whole new level.

I think its incredible the sort of things you can nowproduced at home if you have the skills - and i can see you certainly do.

Really interesting posts you have do.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
COMPLETED: Porsche 911
Markwarren
#215 Posted : 27 July 2019 08:20:45

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This is progressing very nicely, great to see it coming together from the drawings.Love

Mark
CaptnBirdseye
#216 Posted : 27 July 2019 10:11:43

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Drool Those triple laser guns look superb Love
Well worth the effort ThumpUp

Cheers Gray
Lundin
#217 Posted : 15 August 2019 22:43:48

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A friend of a friend wanted to sell his laser cutter. I jumped at that opportunity.
He had it for 2 years, it's complete and working. Upgraded with honeycomb and air-assist, and the price was alright. It's a chinese "K40" model. He bought it via Europe and USA so there is a manual in english.BigGrin
The very stylished wheeled table came with it. It's stainless. Drool



But I have had some problems with it. It has just been making soot. Nice lines of soot. But not what I want.
Turns out the lens that focuses the beam was up side down. I guess it scattered the beam.
The cutter works now, but I have to attach the air-assist better to the cutter head. It's not properly attached yet.

The air-assist is a nozzle that directs a stream of air directly to the point where the laser hits the material you want to cut. It makes the burning more efficient and more clean.

Also started to learn the cutter software, file formats and what material to use.

No cut stuff to show. But it will come.
Lundin
#218 Posted : 20 August 2019 21:59:11

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Got the lasercutter to work MORE properly tonight. BigGrin
Until now it has only made paper sootty.
My custom airnozzle is working but is missing the spot where it needs to hit with a few millimeters. I will update it and hopefully I will have better effect.

The thick piece in the photo is made by hand, with saws, files and dremelbits. The thin part, with burnt edges, is lasercut.
You recognize it from the cargohold door openings.
I like the look of those circular beams with holes so much that I want to use them everywhere in the diorama. My idea is that they are the cornerstone of everything that is built in the universe. A universal beam used for housing, spaceships and whatever more.
They come in tons of different shapes and profiles.



And I designed and printed some more pieces for the pipes.
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